R12 driveshaft - the sequel...
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  1. #1
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    Default R12 driveshaft - the sequel...

    Lads,

    I'd better get round to changing this shaft, or it'll leave me stranded...so opinions, please. Will I get away without changing the diff bearing carrier seal, or will this definitely leak after changing the shaft?

    By the way - does anyone have a way of removing the bearing carrier nut on the side without the special tool?

    Cheers

    Stuey

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  2. #2
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    I'll give you a 50/50 chance of it leaking within a month depending of course on the age of the seal; compare the seal cost to the amount of labour involved in changing it if it leaks as opposed to doing it as part of the job; it's a no contest in my books.

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    I admit that the R12 side carrier seals almost always leak anyway. To undo the nut without the tool, I have just used a pin punch and light use of a hammer without braking the fins, but I have seen many others broken.
    Only do one side at a time as these nuts set the crownwheel depth in the pinion and bearing preload.
    Also, seal the ends of the roll pin with a bit of silicone, to prevent oil coming down the spline and escaping at the pin.
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  4. #4
    Simon's Avatar
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    I agree with Alan M, the seals generally leak anyway, it is just a matter of how much. One other thing to change is the O-ring on the output shaft that the driveshaft splines onto. This can help minimise the amount of oil leaking through to the rollpins if the silicone on the ends does decide to part company.

    With the ring nut, it all depends on the moon phase, weather and what someone may be doing in a forest in China. If a fin wants to break off it will, but try poking the tool that will get hit as close as possible to the inner part of the fin, and count the exact number of turns of the ring nut, and parts of turns so that the diff preload is unchanged. If the ring nut comes of, change the seal, as it is a relatively easy job once it is all in pieces.

  5. #5
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    Thanks guys. I've actually done this job before, but I borrowed the correct tool after snapping a couple of the fins off. Unfortunately, the business that lent me the tool has changed hands, and I think I'll have Buckley's of borrowing it again - I was surprised of the offer (with no deposit) the first time. Of course, and with good reason, a workshop wouldn't normally let out their tools!

    By the way, I did this job about three years ago and they still don't leak. I'm a ornery, meticulous, fussy %$$##@@ and polished the shaft surfaces where they meet the seal with some 1000 grit wet or dry carborundum for ages. And yes, I siliconed the roll pins and used new O-rings. I also siliconed the first couple of threads of the nuts, as recommended.

    Alan, I'm a belt and braces man too, but, at least on this 'box, these nuts can be BLOODY hard to move without the tool...but I'll probably do it anyway. Might have to fabricate something.

    Stuey

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