Timing chain R1135
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Thread: Timing chain R1135

  1. #1
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    Default Timing chain R1135

    Hi out there,

    My workshop manual does not tell me how to know if my timing chain is worn.
    Any thoughts on the problem? I believe that the motor has done about 50,000 miles. I had the valve springs checked &, against the manual are approximately 50% stronger than the specification.
    Regards,
    Ross

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Open up the engine and push/pull the chain links to see how much they move. If they move out enough that the chain can ride on top of the sprocket teeth, it's time to replace it.
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    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    I reckon you can see on the wear of the tensioner. It is just an indication of how much life is left before you have to change it in any case. The chain is very cheap, about $20 from what I can remember. The tensioner is more and more scarce as well. If the tensioner isn't worn then leave well alone.

    That 50% stronger is not a good sign. It is a lot. It looks like somebody has fiddled with it and overdid it. It is a pity that whoever tested it did not give you the actual figures relating to the on-seat and on-cam pressures. Take in account that the G engine develops max hp at close to 7000 rpm (6800 I think) then you don't need that high. How high do you intend revving it?

    This is just a few things going through my mind.

    Frans.

    Frans.
    Old enough to know better
    Young enough to do it anyway.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frans View Post
    I reckon you can see on the wear of the tensioner. It is just an indication of how much life is left before you have to change it in any case. The chain is very cheap, about $20 from what I can remember. The tensioner is more and more scarce as well. If the tensioner isn't worn then leave well alone.

    That 50% stronger is not a good sign. It is a lot. It looks like somebody has fiddled with it and overdid it. It is a pity that whoever tested it did not give you the actual figures relating to the on-seat and on-cam pressures. Take in account that the G engine develops max hp at close to 7000 rpm (6800 I think) then you don't need that high. How high do you intend revving it?

    This is just a few things going through my mind.

    Frans.

    Frans.
    Thanks Frans will look into it, the car is going to be a road car only, no high revs consistently.
    regards Ross

  5. #5
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    As usual, I agree with Frans.

    In my case, I replaced all that stuff when I rebuilt the R8 in 1988, 73,000 miles ago. I've seen the hard rubber face on the tensioner wear a fair bit back then, but I've no thoughts of messing with mine yet. It will be the top piston ring/piston failure that stops the engine, perhaps in my lifetime or maybe later, it being a road car like yours.

    However, full timing chain/tensioner kits are available online from the usual suppliers - if I had the engine apart I'd fit a new one as they are cheap. Why would you NOT? It would have to be making quite a lot of noise before I'd mess with it by dismantling the engine on a road car.

    Now, if it were a Celeron timing gear like the Ventoux engines, it would be a different matter - they wear a lot if the oil changes are not appropriate. Again, mine hasn't been touched since 1970, perhaps 100,000 km, but I've done lots of oil changes.
    JohnW

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