R19 purchase help
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 20 of 20
  1. #1
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Blackmans Bay
    Posts
    6

    Default R19 purchase help

    Hi, first time possible purchaser to be of an R19 in Tasmania.
    I need help from people experienced with R19's, all input advice gratefully accepted.
    Choice of 2 on offer locally at this point in time. Which is best value for money, or, which is the best buy?
    Number 1.
    1994,manual, 1.7 litre, injected, 180,000 k's,Baccara, (whatever that means), leather upholstery, airco, power steer,elec mirrors / front windows only I think, central locking,6 stacker CD, alloys,(plain looking), not sure if they are factory or after market, minor,(very minor), body damage, runs well on test drive. Requires obvious minor mechanical work, CV boots, something noisy behind dash on passengers side, ? noisy heater fan / airco.
    full service history
    $7500, listed, no negotiation yet.

    Number2
    1995,man,1.8 litre, injected, 104,000k's, better looking alloys, rad/ cass, elecs as above, ? elec rear windows on this one, radio controls on stalk, no obvious repairs needed, same noise behind dash, body work good, paint fair, cloth upholstery, runs well on test drive.
    full service history
    $8900 listed, no negotiation yet.
    For purpose of comparison,assume warranty details identical.

    Advertisement

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    5,074

    Default

    Hi, knock a few tousand off. Good cars even if some members think they are a bit of shit. Had mine up to 180kmh and it was very stable and quiet (auto).
    Autos can give some trouble but they are easy to repair and with a proper oil cooler should be as good as any. Have to mention that mine are a 91 and 92 build.
    Going to work in Melbourne traffic it uses just under 9 l / 100km. Driving in the country they can sit on 140 all day and one can converse normally.
    Engines are very durable.
    If you are at all handy, they are easy to work on.
    The cam belt must be changed at 100,000km. But it's easy.
    Most parts are no problem. Caravell imports are excellent.
    Just replaced middle stragulation box and rear muffler for 290.
    If you rely on other people or mechanics to do routine work on the car then you'd probably be better off with a jap car.
    Anyhow, inspite of the R19 being a Frech Corolla, it is nice to drive, economical, and easy to work on.
    All in all, given the stupid speed limits it's OK.
    My main gripe is, that it does not fit well between parked cars and the tram in Melbourne (the left mirror is a problem)
    JoBo
    PS: Or you could buy a Cit and spend $10,000 in 3 years maintaining it (like the guy in Sydney). It may well be a nicer drive, but what are the speed limits in Tas.?

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Location Location
    Posts
    1,574

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tassiedevil
    Hi, first time possible purchaser to be of an R19 in Tasmania.
    I need help from people experienced with R19's, all input advice gratefully accepted.
    Choice of 2 on offer locally at this point in time. Which is best value for money, or, which is the best buy?
    Number 1.
    1994,manual, 1.7 litre, injected, 180,000 k's,Baccara, (whatever that means), leather upholstery, airco, power steer,elec mirrors / front windows only I think, central locking,6 stacker CD, alloys,(plain looking), not sure if they are factory or after market, minor,(very minor), body damage, runs well on test drive. Requires obvious minor mechanical work, CV boots, something noisy behind dash on passengers side, ? noisy heater fan / airco.
    full service history
    $7500, listed, no negotiation yet.

    Number2
    1995,man,1.8 litre, injected, 104,000k's, better looking alloys, rad/ cass, elecs as above, ? elec rear windows on this one, radio controls on stalk, no obvious repairs needed, same noise behind dash, body work good, paint fair, cloth upholstery, runs well on test drive.
    full service history
    $8900 listed, no negotiation yet.
    For purpose of comparison,assume warranty details identical.
    I would urge you to look at a rough 306, Xantia or even a good 205 for around the same money before you commit yourself. These represent better value for your hard earned imo.

    But if you must buy a R19, go for Number2. But try and get it for Number1's price (or less). Why not make a silly offer on it? It's not going anywhere.

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    5,074

    Default

    Hi, just remembered, if you don't want any creaks or rattles in the dash board then buy a toyota.
    Repaired the brackets on our R19's on the top left and right of the dash. Easy job.It's quiet now.
    They are designed (the brackets) by someone who had a few too many bougalaise.
    In any case, all cars seem to have their ideosyncracys. It's a matter of choice/money and information for problem solving.
    To be objective, look at Choice reliability surveys and see what makes come out on top and then decide if you like the way the drive.
    JoBo

  5. #5
    Simon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    6,163

    Default

    Baccara was the top model of the 19 line, it got alloys, airbag and extra fruit.

    The 1.8 litre one sounds the better car, it has a few extra kW's 81 as opposed to 68.5kW of the 1.7 so more open road oomph that the 1.7 lacks. But negotiate a much better price, especially if it requires a respray.

    Check the service history carefully for proper servicing, things like the already mentioned timing belt at 100,000k's and also regular coolant changing with the correct type. Using the incorrect coolant can cause corrosion of the radiator and engine internals.

    Do all the usual other checks, for brakes, tyres etc. I'd be worried about the paintwork on the 1.8 though as the metallics on this era of Renault usually last quite well, it it going off because of previous extensive accident damage and poor repairs?

    The 1,7 sounds too pricey if it needs the work you have mentioned, and for those k's.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! dave from bendigo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    bendigo,vic
    Posts
    292

    Default

    I have a 92 19txe and urge you to definitely get the price down, the first one has highish kays and some panel damage, and as for the 2nd one, well mine has immaculate paint and it is 3 years older so I would be sceptical about how it's been treated, in vic you can get good roadworthy cars in the same era as the second one for 8k if you look around. Personally I think both are well overpriced as parts for these cars are dearer than jap parts(excluding honda) and neither of the cars you stated have a roadworthy.
    "Some minds are like concrete...all mixed up and permanently set."

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    canberra...
    Posts
    8,752

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dave from bendigo
    Ias parts for these cars are dearer than jap parts(excluding honda) and neither of the cars you stated have a roadworthy.
    Dude ! Where are you buying your parts - not in Bendigo I hope!!!!
    I tried to drown my sorrows in alcohol, but the bastards learnt how to swim

  8. #8
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    10,769

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Simon
    Baccara was the top model of the 19 line, it got alloys, airbag and extra fruit.

    The 1.8 litre one sounds the better car, it has a few extra kW's 81 as opposed to 68.5kW of the 1.7 so more open road oomph that the 1.7 lacks. But negotiate a much better price, especially if it requires a respray.

    Check the service history carefully for proper servicing, things like the already mentioned timing belt at 100,000k's and also regular coolant changing with the correct type. Using the incorrect coolant can cause corrosion of the radiator and engine internals.

    Do all the usual other checks, for brakes, tyres etc. I'd be worried about the paintwork on the 1.8 though as the metallics on this era of Renault usually last quite well, it it going off because of previous extensive accident damage and poor repairs?

    The 1,7 sounds too pricey if it needs the work you have mentioned, and for those k's.
    I'd agree that no. 2 is the better buy of those two. But seriously consider the Melbourne market - bound to be a big choice of lower priced cars.

    Then, as someone else said, if you're going to spend up to $9,000 on a secondhand French car, I'd go looking seriously at a 306. More around, better known, better cars, better spare parts support, better drivers and so it goes. Only my view of course, but we have 4 Renaults (1 for sale) so I can't be accused of bias against them....

    Good Luck

    JohnW

  9. #9
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,383

    Default

    205, Xantias, BX's, 306's etc... You'll find there all a better drive by a long shot than a R19.... Get a BX for a 1/3rd of the price & live happily ever after R19's are complete slugs, especially the automatic versions (though the manuals are pretty bad too). I don't know why ??

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  10. #10
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Blackmans Bay
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Thanks to all that have given advice / help. Now I am more confused.
    Started off looking at a SEAT Cordoba and then moved to a NISSAN Pulsar and was then looking at the 2 R19's. Thought that I was on to a good thing, ie the were much better featured than the other two, and the seats are comfortable!!.
    Soooooooo, what is a Xantia, or a BX.
    Looking at the local Trading Post down here, 306's are roughly $1K more expensive.

    Maybe I should get hold of a Melbourne Trading Post.

  11. #11
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,383

    Default

    Lookup Citroen,

    note: if you end up with a BX there not many cars that'll keep up with it, especially given a twisty bit of road. A BX will kill a R19

    I'd probably get a Xantia over a 306, only 'cos there resale is so much worse that you get a lot more car for you $$$$. Certainly I don't think you'll be dissapointed with any of the cars above.

    BTW: People might be picking on the R19, it's actually not a bad little car, it just defines the term 'mediocre' in IMO. Who knows, you might drive the R19 and decide you like it & it's the car for you (BX still kills it in just about every aspect though ).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger! dave from bendigo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    bendigo,vic
    Posts
    292

    Default

    Haakon, you will be pleased to hear that I buy my parts from european auto imports and not in bendigo.
    "Some minds are like concrete...all mixed up and permanently set."

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    canberra...
    Posts
    8,752

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dave from bendigo
    Haakon, you will be pleased to hear that I buy my parts from european auto imports and not in bendigo.
    Good!! Try Carrevelle Imports as well I find these 2 places provide froggy bits much cheaper than most Jap stuff is.
    I tried to drown my sorrows in alcohol, but the bastards learnt how to swim

  14. #14
    Good Sport danielsydney's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    4,917

    Icon1

    get a late model R19 the lathe better i think, more reliable....

  15. #15
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Blackmans Bay
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Thanks to Simon, dave from bendigo, JohnW & double chevron. Your comments have helped me to make a more informed decision. They will also help me to negotiate a better deal as I am armed with a lot more knowledge.
    Both of these cars are at used car dealers, and I now feel more empowered to get attempt to get a car more on my terms.
    I think that I will investigate the BX, Xantia & 306 options some more, with a tendency toward the 306 as I am not after a sports car, more something more practical. I am tending more and more towards a European car as there is definitely an increased level of refinement / comfort.
    No doubt, I will hit this site again with a view to getting constructive feedback on other issues, if I can't strike a "good deal" on car 2.
    thanks again simon, dave john & double.

    michael s

  16. #16
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Blackmans Bay
    Posts
    6

    Default

    note to ranger.
    i have no idea on how to send a pm. i was a forum / chat site virgin until 2 days ago. regardless, the cars where white and bluey/purple respectively.

  17. #17
    Simon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    6,163

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tassiedevil
    I think that I will investigate the BX, Xantia & 306 options some more, with a tendency toward the 306 as I am not after a sports car, more something more practical. I am tending more and more towards a European car as there is definitely an increased level of refinement / comfort.

    michael s
    Just another thing to consider. Who is going to service the car or are you proficient at doing your own repairs? If you are not going to do your own repairs, it may be worthwhile considering who is going to be carrying out the servicing of your new car. Consider if the dealer or an interested marque specialist is in your area for whichever car you choose. It could save hassles and time in the future.

  18. #18
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Blackmans Bay
    Posts
    6

    Default

    another good point thanks Simon. I'm okay with basic stuff. Their is a local guy who has a reputation of being good with frog stuff.
    Realistically though, is it really necessary to have a specialist?
    without knowing what i am talking about, i would have thought that any grease monkey with all of the modern gear would be able to tackle most stuff on most cars?????

  19. #19
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    5,074

    Default

    Yeah, sure, Renaults (or many other cars) are not rocket science. If he/she has passion, patience, technical aptitude a working brain and honesty - no problem. (even i manage to do most things myself and i'm not Einstein)

    JoBo

  20. #20
    Simon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    6,163

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JoBo
    Yeah, sure, Renaults (or many other cars) are not rocket science. If he/she has passion, patience, technical aptitude a working brain and honesty - no problem. (even i manage to do most things myself and i'm not Einstein)

    JoBo
    I agree with you entirely JoBo! However even so called specialists and experts who are in the business of repairing cars for a career, trade, business, enjoyment and general community service have been known to stretch their sphere of knowledge to gain new customers.

    However if you can find somebody who has a good verifiable reputation and a passion for the customer and their car (regardless of marque) all the better.

    So to summize, no a specialist is not necessary, but having someone who knows what they are doing and doesn't charge a Euro premium for essentially "normal" cars is preferable.

    But I would imagine something like one of those proper Citroens with float on fluid suspension would require a modicum of specialist or prior knowledge in a mechanic.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •