Fuego clutch pedal is stiff
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! alpinesau's Avatar
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    Default Fuego clutch pedal is stiff

    One of my 2 Fuegos has a stiff clutch pedal. The other one is light.

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    Where should I begin my investigation? Is it usually the cable or the pivot on the bellhousing?

    I'm sure Mr Renault or Ken Fuego has come across this problem & knows the answer.

    Many thanks

    Robert
    1970 R8 Gordini R1135
    2005 Megane 225 Cup
    2008 Clio X85 Cup Racer
    2014 Megane RS275 Trophy R
    2015 Koleos Expression

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
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    cable see carrevelle imports for nice cheap new one.
    I tried to drown my sorrows in alcohol, but the bastards learnt how to swim

  3. #3
    Simon's Avatar
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    Likely the cable, as there are two types, original early type early and later type. The later type being easier to adjust. But it could also be the pivot that has cracked or seized from heat and time.

  4. #4
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    It could possibly be the clutch cable, but just make sure the pivot on the box and the actuator pushrod is well lubed.

    I usually put a bit of thick grease on the pushrod ends and spray the pivot in wd40 (I do this at every service)

    I am under the impression that the clutch link pivot has bushes in it that wear out......I've never had mine wear out yet and my car still has the original clutch at 220K so I reckon it's a bit of a falicy...

    You might want to wait for a response from Kenfuego as the cars in his "fleet" have done a few more miles than mine....

    BTW - It's easy enough to check the cable, just back off the adjustment, and remove the little push rod.

    If the cable moves fairly freely, it aint the problem

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    My fuego has a very stiff clutch too,
    But on the up side, it keeps my miss's out of the pilot seat ,as she has not the strength to drive it. The same goes for the the steering.

  6. #6
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    Robert

    Advice from Mistareno is a good start to eliminating possible causes. In general the genuine Valeo clutch is much softer than either local clutch plates or other generic imports. Caravelle has the Valeo and generic. The genuine is costlier of course.

    If a new cable has been fitted, it must be set in place in the firewall or the cable sits slightly cockeyed and it will effect its operation. The newer style of cable has a graphite sheathing material to assist the free movement of the cable, but if the cable end hasn't been seated properly in the firewall, then the pressure on the sheathing causes it to wrinkle in use and the cable will become harder and harder to operate.

    If this is the case its probably better to get a new cable and fit it but be prepared to be a bit of a contortionist in getting the 'pedal" end of the cable over the hook section, it takes time but can be done!! Check the free movement of the bell crank arm and refit cable at that end, take out all free play with the adjustment and apply pressure to the foot pedal, you will feel the cable end snap into the firewall housing, you can then back off the cable and adjust to suit.

    I always put some teflon grease/oil on the cable to ensure it moves freely inside the outer casing. As previously mentioned the pivot point of the clutch arm(out of sight inside the clutch housing) needs to have some grease on it or it can become dry and noisy in service. On my daily driver the pivot point makes a squeaking sound occasionally, but still works o.k. and, I am loth to take it apart while it is still workable (its done just over 80,000 km now)

    On some I have stripped down, I have found this arm bent to the extent that it required replacing with a new part from Caravelle, and on others the pivot point almost worn through from lack of lubricant on assembly. I hope that our advice helps you to trace the source of the problem.

    Some other things you find is that when a cable gets stretched to its limits a mechanics trick to get that little bit more movement is to fit a longer rod at the bell crank end, it works sometimes as a short term fix. (till something bends, the cable breaks, or the clutch collapses etc..) (but it might go on for years!!)

    By the way I always carry a spare new or good secondhand clutch cable in each of my cars as the refit is one you can do beside the road and it is hard to get home with a broken cable! Cables do not break that often, but if it happens in a remote area!!! murphys law!!

    The bolt on the bell crank pivot arm can either strip out where it screws into the aluminium housing and, some have had the bolt break. ( I have never had a bolt actually break )

    I have had one on my sons car strip out (86 with power steering) and to get it going I had to make a new bolt on my lathe and retap an oversize thread into the housing after removing the power steering gear to one side. As a makeshift repair it's still o.k. after about two years now and should be much stronger than the original thread/bolt size.

    Hopefully it will be a simple fix, or just that the clutch fitted in that car was a "heavy duty" reconditioned unit and much heavier in service than the other Fuego.

    Best of Luck and let us know what you find.

    Ken

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! alpinesau's Avatar
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    Thanks for everyones input.

    Clutch cable & pivot are OK, but there have been about 15mm of spacers put in to get enough pull.
    Car judders (especially in reverse), so I now suspect the pressure plate is NG.
    (no good).
    During the removal of the cable from the pivot end, greasing & re-installing, of course I dropped a nut into the bellhousing ( the rubber cover was missing).
    It was just visible nested in the fork, but when I tried to recover it with a magnetised screwdriver, it fell down, presumably to the bottom of the bellhousing.
    I cant be bothered with the only methods of retrieval I can think of:
    1. remove the starter motor and fish around with a magnet or
    2) drill a big hole in the bottom of the bellhousing and encourage it out with a piece of wire, or by squirting water in from the top.

    I have driven the car since with no effect, so i presume that the nut is stuck in the oily mess that accumulates there.

    I don't look forward to the clutch removal/replacement process.

    Thanks again.

    Robert
    1970 R8 Gordini R1135
    2005 Megane 225 Cup
    2008 Clio X85 Cup Racer
    2014 Megane RS275 Trophy R
    2015 Koleos Expression

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpinesau
    I cant be bothered with the only methods of retrieval I can think of:
    1. remove the starter motor and fish around with a magnet or
    2) drill a big hole in the bottom of the bellhousing and encourage it out with a piece of wire, or by squirting water in from the top.
    If you remove the plate at the bottom of the bell housing (4x11mm bolts from memory) you can see inside the bell housing and should be able to remove the nut.

    It can be a pain in the butt to get the cover off but it CAN be done

    Should take about 30 minutes and it may pay to check the sump bolts while your at it...the rear ones seem the most likely to come loose causing a leak.

    NOTE: The rear sump bolts have a small flat blade slot in them (it is impossible to get a socket up there) . Just use a flexi driver with a small flat bladed screw driver head to nip them up......

    BTW - You will probably curse the position of the crossmember ...It need to be about an inch further back (or removable like an R12's) but this would probably effect the chassis stiffness as it doubles as a brace for the lower wishbone mounts...

    A bit of percerverance and you should be right.....or you could just leave it there until the clutch dies completely and you have to change it.....

    PS - If you have a clutch shudder, you might want to check the engine/gearbox mounts as they are renowned for their weakness...

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! alpinesau's Avatar
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    Richard,
    The cover was already removed, and yes I did curse the position of the brace between the chassis rails.

    Even with the car over the pit, the brace prevents you from seeing in the bellhousing at its lowest point. Anyway, the clearance between the flywheel and the bellhousing is only 3mm, whereas the nut is 6mm thick and 10mm across flats.

    It looks as though the nut is there until the clutch expires altogether.

    Robert
    1970 R8 Gordini R1135
    2005 Megane 225 Cup
    2008 Clio X85 Cup Racer
    2014 Megane RS275 Trophy R
    2015 Koleos Expression

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
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    You really should get that nut out. Best case its going to get thrown about bythe flywheel and ding up the bell housing, worst case its going to get caught up in pressure plate. Just unbolt the bellhousing from the motor and pull it back until it falls out, but dont actually take the gearbox out.

    If you have a shuddering clutch, you will be (assumming a healthy clutch) taking the gearbox mount off anyway to renew it.
    I tried to drown my sorrows in alcohol, but the bastards learnt how to swim

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