Megane diesel injector and ecu problems
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Thread: Megane diesel injector and ecu problems

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default Megane diesel injector and ecu problems

    Our 2011 Megane Diesel had some dashboard engine alerts, but was running nicely. The regular mechanic (specialised in French cars but not a Renault dealer) couldn't clear all the alerts so we took it to our local dealer.

    They reported that two injectors needed replacing (over $600 per injector plus labour so $1800-$2000). With a big trip coming up I didn't question it - "just go ahead and get it done". Well some time later and no news of the car being ready, I called to hear that the ECU wouldn't recognise the new injectors. Problem with the ECU, they cost $2500 to replace (original part from Renault), and anyway there aren't any in Australia and it would have to come from France.

    Recommendation - send the ECU to a company (Cooldrive?) that specialises in car electronics to repair. Ok "go ahead with it". Next news - it can't be repaired, but a guy from the dealership has located one in a wreckers yard (kudos to the mechanic for locating this). So I went there myself to buy it and took it to the dealer. It then has to be sent to Brisbane to move the immobiliser chip to the new (wreck) ECU.

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    Meanwhile, more than a month has passed, the big trip has come and gone (road trip Melbourne to Cairns effortlessly handled by our 2006 Peugeot diesel 307) and still no outlook on when the Megane might be back. Also no loan or courtesy car available from the dealer.

    Are these the sorts of problems anyone else has encountered? It seems bizarre to me that for a car that was running well, no unusual behaviour, no problematic fuel economy, no issues starting, just some dashboard lights, have turned into such a major and very expensive saga and is taking so long to resolve.

    Not happy Renault.

    Any comments?

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    Like my throttle body fault. Was really only a battery with low volts. Luckily the dealer from experience knew that that was the fault code that came up for a low battery on the Latitude. Mind you the comuter did show battery voltage as 11.5 volts. Like my Discovery. For some unknown reason the almost new battery dropped to 10 volts over night. There was a heap of weird stuff happening, pulsing relays, security horn trying to blow, flashing dash lights. Jump started the car and charged the battery and all was well again. Thanks RACQ man.

  3. #3
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    Maybe it's my cynical nature, but i strongly suspect that they are incompetent as well as overcharging. After all, you say that the car was running very nicely. A faulty injector would not allow that i suspect?
    "The enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it's the illusion of knowledge"
    Stephen Hawking

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    Quote Originally Posted by JoBo View Post
    Maybe it's my cynical nature, but i strongly suspect that they are incompetent as well as overcharging. After all, you say that the car was running very nicely. A faulty injector would not allow that i suspect?
    Do you get a pollution fault on diesels when the combustion process is compromised???

    Decades ago I got given a tour of the ships engine room.
    There in a soundproof room was a comfy chair looking upon a very wide wall worth of idiot-lights warning of faults for all the different functions of the engine room.

    I remember asking the engineer what he does when one of the warning lights starts flashing.
    He answered, "Quickly find out if it is a real fault or just a faulty sensor throwing up a false error."

    Jo

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    Default Battery ??

    Quote Originally Posted by Sunroof View Post
    Like my throttle body fault. Was really only a battery with low volts. Luckily the dealer from experience knew that that was the fault code that came up for a low battery on the Latitude. Mind you the comuter did show battery voltage as 11.5 volts. Like my Discovery. For some unknown reason the almost new battery dropped to 10 volts over night. There was a heap of weird stuff happening, pulsing relays, security horn trying to blow, flashing dash lights. Jump started the car and charged the battery and all was well again. Thanks RACQ man.
    Hi
    I similar to a lot of other AFers have seen this codes and bad battery BS and thought sure get a life. BUT it happened to my newish Captur 6 mths ago. One morning it showed a spanner light and I put my old code reader on it. I forget what the codes were but random unrelated ones. Started ok but not as smart as usual and ran OK. As it should with only about 20k Ks.
    I looked into it and saw nothing obvious wrong. But when starting it some time later I though it did sound a bit sluggish so checked the battery and the voltage was down to about 10+. Obviously a cell had failed but was still conducting OK, and because it was an instant starter it went. But the voltage dip doing that caused the codes to appear.
    Put a new battery in, cleared the codes and never saw another one since. I hardly believe it, have never seen that before, but now I do think that a new battery might solve a slew of odd codes and it is not BS You live and learn. Some mechanics obviously have not yet learned this
    Jaahn
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    My mate worked in a garage in Kyneton. He told me it is well known with Falcons that a low battery causes fault problems the could not explain at first.
    Sunroof likes this.
    "The enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it's the illusion of knowledge"
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    Trick for young players if itís a push button start and the key isnít in the reader you canít code ecus like egr valves injectors etc on a lot of psa and Renault cars


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    Fix it right the first time
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    Wow thanks for all your informative replies folks. Much appreciated. Though I probs won't appreciate the bill when I get it.

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    The saga continues. ECU from wreck sent to Cooldrive to swap immobiliser chip, came back and still does not work. Dealer says they've tried with a new battery (to rule out low voltage issue referred to above) - no good. They've tried putting original injectors back in - no good. Another mechanic asked - have they programmed the new injectors? I asked, and yes they have - no good.

    Renault Australia has been no help at all. They think all we want is better communication, but I think they have totally (deliberately?) missed the point.

    Nearly 8 weeks later still no car and no outlook. I find it staggering that with the latest up-to-date equipment the dealers have to have, and with the training the dealer mechanics need to have, that a car that was running ok before, can be off the road for 8 weeks with no outlook for when it might be fixed.

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts Kim Luck's Avatar
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    You were happy having your car serviced by a non-Renault dealer, and were for a period happy to continue driving it with engine alerts that could not be cleared by your service garage: It was "running nicely". What was it that suddenly decided you to tempt fate, with the car "running nicely"? Did you assume that an official Renault dealer would be able to fix your engine alerts "just like that", after an experienced french car repairer could not? Something is not quite right for sure!
    Don't it always seem to go that you don't know what you've got 'til it's gone............

  11. #11
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    Still think it's incompetent diagnosic technicians. They claim that they matched the new injectors so the ECU delivers fuel like the replaced ones - i doubt it provided that all plus some of the below basics have checked out.
    Replacing the battery to rule out Just check the bl.... battery out with a V-meter & Amp meter as well as doing a voltage drop test on + & - as well as the charging system, might as well do the starter circuit at the same time (to show up a bad battery) - doesn't take long.
    If they computer needed replacing then i'd put that down to faulty testing (blown a diode or something, it was running fine prior to them fiddling?)
    Of course, could be power to the injectors. Presumably there is a CAN bus? Is that showing the correct pattern on the scope?
    Mind boggling incompetence, no understanding how the system works nor how to use their most likely expensive diagnostic tools.
    BTW, i wouldn't expect Renault head office to be able to diagnose from afar but perhaps they could recommend a trained technician with experience?
    Good Luck!
    "The enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it's the illusion of knowledge"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunroof View Post
    Like my throttle body fault. Was really only a battery with low volts. Luckily the dealer from experience knew that that was the fault code that came up for a low battery on the Latitude. Mind you the comuter did show battery voltage as 11.5 volts. Like my Discovery. For some unknown reason the almost new battery dropped to 10 volts over night. There was a heap of weird stuff happening, pulsing relays, security horn trying to blow, flashing dash lights. Jump started the car and charged the battery and all was well again. Thanks RACQ man.
    So, was it a faulty battery?
    "The enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it's the illusion of knowledge"
    Stephen Hawking

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kim Luck View Post
    You were happy having your car serviced by a non-Renault dealer, and were for a period happy to continue driving it with engine alerts that could not be cleared by your service garage: It was "running nicely". What was it that suddenly decided you to tempt fate, with the car "running nicely"? Did you assume that an official Renault dealer would be able to fix your engine alerts "just like that", after an experienced french car repairer could not? Something is not quite right for sure!
    I can understand that Kim, my Megane Diesel is running well, touch wood Which is o.k. and I have changed away from a Dealer Network due to more convenient location and happy with the attention. I did have a minor problem when turning off the engine, a component (EGR) became noisy. It was to be fixed with a replacement unit but our model used a differently wired part to that commonly available one so a new part needed to be ordered probably from overseas with the correct wiring, but o.k. to use while waiting for the new part to come in.

    Car has been in quite a number of times for subsequent services and I have asked about when the new part will arrive for fitting, but the response was shall we say a bit vague? and while I was concerned, no one else appeared to be concerned so the same audible problem remains but the Megane otherwise performs well.

    Like most happy owners whose cars are going o.k. I would still like the noise thing fixed, though we have become used to it (apparently a stripped "plastic"? internal part?) but it seems not an urgent concern for my repairer when I ask about the progress of the part? I guess it is o.k. to operate it, should I stick with the knowledge of the service operator as they are aware of the difference between components and the need to pick the right replacement part for our particular model?

    The business has changed ownership recently though I am sure the new business will retain the knowledge of the faulty part and a gentle reminder might get the unit procured and replaced? (it is on the list of things to be discussed at the next service) I guess if push comes to shove we could take it to a new service point and get into the same rig-ma-role as the OP while insisting the original known issue be eliminated meanwhile car is operating very well.

    Part of my reason for opting for the more convenient service place was a rear brake replacement at a Dealership. Whenever you reverse it squeals like a wounded bull, but we have learned to live with that. it was just one small issue that prompted our change. perhaps one day I will pull the wheels off and do the job myself and if that doesn't fix it, I can only blame myself and yes live with the result.

    Perhaps I should become a serial complainer in my old age ?, ah well life is not perfect.

    Megane continues to run nicely, given those two little minor irritations..

    Ken

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunroof View Post
    Like my throttle body fault. Was really only a battery with low volts. Luckily the dealer from experience knew that that was the fault code that came up for a low battery on the Latitude. Mind you the comuter did show battery voltage as 11.5 volts. Like my Discovery. For some unknown reason the almost new battery dropped to 10 volts over night. There was a heap of weird stuff happening, pulsing relays, security horn trying to blow, flashing dash lights. Jump started the car and charged the battery and all was well again. Thanks RACQ man.
    Yes eventualy proved the battery in the Discovery was dropping a cell intermittently.
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    Ken, isn't the EGR valve cleanable on a diesel?
    "The enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it's the illusion of knowledge"
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    Quote Originally Posted by shawian View Post
    The saga continues. ECU from wreck sent to Cooldrive to swap immobiliser chip, came back and still does not work. Dealer says they've tried with a new battery (to rule out low voltage issue referred to above) - no good. They've tried putting original injectors back in - no good. Another mechanic asked - have they programmed the new injectors? I asked, and yes they have - no good.

    Renault Australia has been no help at all. They think all we want is better communication, but I think they have totally (deliberately?) missed the point.

    Nearly 8 weeks later still no car and no outlook. I find it staggering that with the latest up-to-date equipment the dealers have to have, and with the training the dealer mechanics need to have, that a car that was running ok before, can be off the road for 8 weeks with no outlook for when it might be fixed.

    Shawian
    Has your saga been solved?
    My son has a Megane 3 DCi and it suddenly stopped in December after he drove home from work, the following morning when to drive the car and it would turn over but not fire.
    After calling me and we went through the basic checks, we found that 2 glow plugs were dead, he said it was over due for a service and there was a notice saying emission fault present (suspect EGR ), CHECKED with Diag tool and no fault present??????????????
    Replace all the glow plugs, and checked EGR was fairly clean (Highway driving to work)
    Went to start the car and the warning Low Battery voltage came on Dash time to Charge the Battery over night
    Following Day refitted battery and trying to start car STILL NO JOY even START U BARSTED would get it to fire.
    Back to the Scan Tool and it came up with 14 faults
    Multiple Lights not working / 2 injectors need sequence / Crankshaft sequence / boot light / Rh door mirror / Window master switch /
    etc etc Strange where did these come from ?????????
    check boot light missing since and rear lights were removed for Booth painting rear end accident in 2012 / revision mirror replaced under warranty and heater fan fault / dash out when 5yr old ( Codes NEVER CLEARED )

    TWO left Injectors and Crank sensor
    Injector pipes and wires removed for access to glow plugs /
    Connect up Scan Tool log into live data (normally used whilst driving) and wind engine over with starter and read DATA
    (problem car only winds over for short time and BCM stops starter) But after a few attempts able to read most things
    Found Crank sensor pulsing but not in sequence with cam sensor ??????? Timing belt ???? Checked and all OK
    Try test again and saw the cam sensor had no reading on the Scan tool. Why does this NOT come up as a fault code.?
    PART ORDERED AT LAST
    AFTER SILLY SEASON
    HOPE IT FIXES IT
    Restricted to driving Auto
    '08 Laguna II Ph II 2.2 DCi
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    Resto Projects in Progress
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    currently out in (BARNS)
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoBo View Post
    Ken, isn't the EGR valve cleanable on a diesel?
    Sorry haven't seen your reply Jobo, till today. Apparently the internal part (plastic) is stripped and sounds like it tries to close "something" but just makes a whirring sound. I was relying on the knowledge they expressed, when it was first noticed as they had come across the fault with another similar megane, and when they got that replacement part, they found that it was wired the same as mine and so they had to get the right part for that car to fix it. Its pretty simple to remove, so given that knowledge I just asked that they source the correct part to replace mine.

    I guess I should have just bought a replacement part while I was in the uk but neglected to photograph the wiring setup before left and since that the handbrake mechanism (plastic bits) deteriorated and gave up. I opened that up and removed the crumbly bits and attached a cable tie, and that seems to work. Have to get the car serviced, so see what happens. I have been on the look-out for a second-hand complete handbrake mechanism, but the solution might be to simply move into a younger version.....

    Now if I could do a body swap for myself that would be good too, as I am losing interest in working on cars at my age.

    Ken.
    JoBo likes this.

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