RX4 brain dead?
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Thread: RX4 brain dead?

  1. #1
    Moderator vivid's Avatar
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    Default RX4 brain dead?

    Hi guys, I thought I may be able to solve this but I'm still at a loss, so thought I'd consult the brains trust.

    I moved this car last week, was starting and running fine, battery needed some TLC.
    So I decided to remove the battery and leave it charging for a couple of days.

    Put the battery back in over the weekend and its nice and charged, but not firing.
    I can hear the fuel pump priming, the dash lights show as they should.

    Further investigation I notice the immobiliser light is not lit or flashing when the ignition is not on, and the central locking seems dead, from both the switch and the key. With ignition off and key out, no lights on the dash!

    This is not how my other (going) twin RX4 looks when the ignition is out, immobiliser flashes, and I have a time on the radio / dash.

    I ran out of time and light this evening but will try a few things tomorrow.
    I do have a twin I could borrow known parts / diagnose with if need be.

    Any experience / advice greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    David.

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts REN TIN TIN's Avatar
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    Sounds like the immobiliser chip in the key is not being recognised.
    Check the wiring going to the pickup coil near the ignition switch.
    I've not done it but there is a way to bypass the immobiliser.


    Cheers
    RTT
    "I cannot help but notice that there is no problem between us that cannot be solved by your departure. Mark Twain"

  3. #3
    COL
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    The only things that I can think of is to check all fuses, also put a code reader on the car and see what codes you have.

    Another thing you can try is to disconnect the battery for 5 minutes then reconnect and try to start the car.

    Other than that I don't know.
    Regards Col

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  4. #4
    Moderator vivid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by REN TIN TIN View Post
    Sounds like the immobiliser chip in the key is not being recognised.
    I'd agree, but the behaviour of the car (no immobiliser light when the ignition is off) lends me to think its nothing to do with the key, which is what you probably mean anyway.

    Thanks Col, RTT, will try again in a few hours, check the fuses, pickup coil near the ignition switch, and try and find some info on the bypass.

    I gave my OBDII clip away to someone as my Hyundai Sonata hasn't needed any computer diagnosis to fix it's faults so far (touch wood)

    Time to order another!

    David.
    Last edited by vivid; 2nd October 2019 at 12:53 PM.
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  5. #5
    Moderator vivid's Avatar
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    This is what I found online on a few Russian sites...

    For Renault Immobilizer Emulator ECU Emulating Data Stream Immo Emulator Key Programmer for EDC15C3 DCU3R MSA15 SiriuS32 Fenix5


    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32807236911.html




    Universal OBD2 Automotive ECU Decoder For Renault Engine Immobilizer For Petrol&Diesel For Renault ECU Decoding Tool

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32745485072.html

    Anyone have any experience with either of these?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by vivid; 2nd October 2019 at 01:51 PM. Reason: added images
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  6. #6
    Moderator vivid's Avatar
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    Just replying to myself, I haven't had the time to look at the car much except a few mins here and there to check something when I think about it.

    My head says it's a fuse, central locking not firing from the switches in the car, no flashy light or any signs of life before the ignition is turned on, and still no solid or flashy light on the cluster.

    Fob battery is full of charge, little red light flashes when you hit the button.

    I left it sit disconnected from the battery, took out all the fuses and inspected them 1 by 1 under the bonnet, and did the top and bottom row of fuses under the steering wheel.

    Car was running fine, like it's ugly twin, the only thing I can think that has changed (besides sitting for a month between starts) is the battery being taken away and charged on a long trickle / rejuvenate cycle.

    I've ruled out the battery.

    Battery is in healthy range of 13.0v and have managed to crank many times without flattening it so far..
    Its a calcium battery matched to the car, could run my house for a few hours I recon.

    1st reading was 16.2 Volts which was 'shocking', only to realise the multimeter battery was running flat, 9v was a 3v.

    I'll get a good go at it later in the week if I don't think of anything in the meantime, and grab one of those OBDII dongle things to read error codes.
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