Ball Joint Separator Tool - R8/10
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    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    Default Ball Joint Separator Tool - R8/10

    Hi Everyone

    I recall some years back buying a ball joint separator from Supercheap to separate the ball joints in my R8.

    I was made of a cast material, but so weak I ended up breaking it.

    I ended up cutting and bashing them out (not ideal of course) as they appeared to have been the orginals - some 50 years in place.

    Anyway I need to do the job again on a R10 where again they appear to be the original fitment (+50 years old).

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    I purchase a tapered folk tool, which I was told would do the job (where you slide it in between the boot and the stub assy and hit the end. That was useless also and even with copious amounts of WD40!

    I would like to buy a decent tool, and there are a range for sale at Repco, Autobarn, Bursons etc but don't know which on to get.

    Can anyone recommend a decent ball joint separator tool that will work first time without breaking anything?

    Cheers
    Angelo

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    Fellow Frogger! Jensen's Avatar
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    I’m in the market for one too.

    Was the one you broke like this?

    https://www.totaltools.com.au/128061...BoCpKQQAvD_BwE
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    I had some success using Loctite "Freeze and Release" https://www.autobarn.com.au/loctite-...rosol-310g-far
    It is a combination of a penetrating agent like WD40 and butane to cool and shrink the part and break any corrosion binding. Was the only thing that let me drift out a wishbone pin that had been in place for 50+years without resorting to oxy or a jackhammer.

    Then just judiciously apply the two hammer technique and smile as the joint pops apart... :-)

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    Not familiar with the R8/10 arm but I use one of these on my 405.

    https://www.kincrome.com.au/tie-rod-end-pitman-arm-pull
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    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    Hi All,

    I use a piece of threaded rod M10 if I can remember correctly (lubricated) and a tube were the ID can go over the rod. Apply as per drawing and turn the nut with a spanner. If it doesn't crack by it self, there is so much tension on it that it releases quick and easy with a knock from the hammer. The other side can be done with another piece of tubing a little longer to take the place of the released ball joint.

    Work out the lengths your self as mine is packed away for the move.

    Frans.
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    Old enough to know better
    Young enough to do it anyway.

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    Yes its was, although can't recall the brand, but it was this style.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frans View Post
    Hi All, I use a piece of threaded rod M10 if I can remember correctly (lubricated) and a tube were the ID can go over the rod. Apply as per drawing and turn the nut with a spanner. If it doesn't crack by it self, there is so much tension on it that it releases quick and easy with a knock from the hammer. The other side can be done with another piece of tubing a little longer to take the place of the released ball joint. Work out the lengths your self as mine is packed away for the move. Frans.
    I think that is the form of the original factory tool Frans. The beauty is that the tool works in compression against the strength of the forged stub axle assembly.

    I have a quality "Litchfield" ball joint tool. It's fine for the tie rod ends but not up to the suspension ball joints when well frozen. At least, I'm not prepared to tighten it ridiculously until something breaks. It's probably the same style as the cheapo one that broke, but with better quality materials.

    Cheers
    JohnW

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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    I’ve often just hit them with a hammer each side at the same time with the nut loosened, in order to break the taper.
    JoBo, Kenfuego and driven like this.
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    Mine have only been replaced once, I guess at about 35 years. I guess that is why it can be trying, if it is only every few decades....
    JohnW

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    Angelo, please PM your location and contact details.
    John

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    The Renault tool needed is T.AV.55a
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    Thanks Simon.
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    We've just used the splitter fork thing. Just a large fork on a tapper that you just bash with a hammer. Being on a tapper the balljoint has no choice but the separate. You will damage the rubber but if your replacing it that doesn't matter.
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Cavanagh View Post
    We've just used the splitter fork thing. Just a large fork on a tapper that you just bash with a hammer. Being on a tapper the balljoint has no choice but the separate. You will damage the rubber but if your replacing it that doesn't matter.
    Thanks Dave

    I purchased one a few weeks ago from Repco, and tried it, but it was too long and to get the right angle to take a decent swing at it was impossible (from under the guard). Hitting it from the side was also impossible at the pointy ends of the fork was striking the rails in the body. I might try cutting the ends off (to shorten it) and give it another try tonight on my R10.

    Just thought there must be a 'better way' of doing it.

    I am probably going to make up something as I will need to use it for a 'future project'

    Angelo

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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    I’ve often just hit them with a hammer each side at the same time with the nut loosened, in order to break the taper.
    That's what i do and it always worked. A heavy hammer on one side and hit it with a big hammer on the other side - easy.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoBo View Post
    That's what i do and it always worked. A heavy hammer on one side and hit it with a big hammer on the other side - easy.
    I did an R8 a few years ago and now the R10 and both have been 'pigs' to get loose!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frans View Post
    Hi All, I use a piece of threaded rod M10 if I can remember correctly (lubricated) and a tube were the ID can go over the rod. Apply as per drawing and turn the nut with a spanner. If it doesn't crack by it self, there is so much tension on it that it releases quick and easy with a knock from the hammer. The other side can be done with another piece of tubing a little longer to take the place of the released ball joint. Work out the lengths your self as mine is packed away for the move. Frans.
    I received this description today of the actual factory tool, pretty much the same principle as Frans' one:

    I quote, " a similar tool can be made using a large bolt and nut with suitable recesses drilled in their ends. The recesses are 4 mm deep x 10 mm diameter, the large nut is 42 mm long & the bolt is 38.5 mm overall. When both are screwed together the overall length of the tool is 52.5 mm. The tool was made by Wilmonda and the number stamped on it while very faint looks like RPR1671."

    Frans, you are MOVING? Phew. Good luck with it and I hope you get a bigger cave! Best wishes as ever.
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    JohnW

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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    The fork is a caveman tool, yes it can do the job but it will take out everything it can in the process. The original Renault tool is what works (I have used one once on my R10 in the dark deep past) and it's the best. For tie rod ends you can just use the clamp one like above, shouldn't need too much force (I use that one to pull R12 hub balljoints, so it's up to the task).

    That original R10 tool is easy to make, but you need a strong (grade 12 or so) bolt, with fine pitch thread. I would go for M10x1mm. I think that was the original. Theirs I think is also some really strong steel, perhaps M2 or such, because the threads on it looked perfect after years of use (I had borrowed it from a mechanic). Grade 12 is not that tough, but it will do.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 20th September 2019 at 12:07 AM.
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    Best and safest way to not damage anything is a hammer. With another solid object behind it. It’s a tapered fit so just a decent knock to shock it out.

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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    The hub carrier on these cars is cast steel. I doubt banging it has no adverse effect. Mind you, I don't like to hammer my cars.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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    1000+ Posts driven's Avatar
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    Bush Mechanic returns.
    So easy, just undo the nut a turn or so on the ball joint

    DO NOT REMOVE NUT unless you want to DIE

    Now just take the car for a run over a rutted road.
    Actually any road in Melbourne will do

    Ball joint should have separated

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    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post

    Frans, you are MOVING? Phew. Good luck with it and I hope you get a bigger cave! Best wishes as ever.
    Yes John, I cannot believe it myself. It is a nightmare here at the moment and this is my last weekend. The truck arrives here on Tuesday to load. The bigger cave will come when I have my extra shed built. Not much bigger but at least it will be level, not like this area I have now where you can't put a screwdriver down or a socket and it runs away into a drain, and the trestles must be spaced with blocks of wood to get the car stable in the air.

    Frans.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frans View Post
    Yes John, I cannot believe it myself. It is a nightmare here at the moment and this is my last weekend. The truck arrives here on Tuesday to load. The bigger cave will come when I have my extra shed built. Not much bigger but at least it will be level, not like this area I have now where you can't put a screwdriver down or a socket and it runs away into a drain, and the trestles must be spaced with blocks of wood to get the car stable in the air. Frans.
    Good luck is all I can say! Moving is hard work!
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    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by R8 Dream View Post
    Thanks Simon.
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    I have just found mine in a job lot that I bought from the good ol US os A.

    I have managed to identify about 50% of the tools in that job lot, just identified another thanks
    Regards Col

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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Can you let us know what size the thread it is, Col? Just for curiosity sake. And I would also ask if you could try a file on it see if it bites to check if it is indeed tool steel.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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