Renault 10 missing when under load
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Thread: Renault 10 missing when under load

  1. #1
    Tadpole Geoff1021's Avatar
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    Icon10 Renault 10 missing when under load

    points, I have over hauled the distributor, new points, coil ans d ignition leads, It now runs well idling but when going up hill it misses. Any ideas for next action?
    Geoff


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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff1021 View Post
    points, I have over hauled the distributor, new points, coil ans d ignition leads, It now runs well idling but when going up hill it misses. Any ideas for next action?
    Geoff
    Old spark plugs or plug gap setting too wide?
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    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    Spark can be a culprit as suggested above. Spark is normally the culprit under load but see also to the fuel.

    The fuel pump can be faulty as well and to check that:: Cruise at a steady speed on the level road or slight downhill for a while. Then suddenly flatout. If it pulls strong for a few seconds and then starts missing it could be the pump because it keeps the float level normal with low loads and then when it starts pulling and uses a lot of fuel it will be ok while the float chamber is full but starts missing as the float chamber levels start to drop and the pump can't keep up with the added flow to the carb. The pump is one of the points but it can also be fuel filter or blocked fuel line.

    Frans
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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Have you checked the vacuum advance capsule works? What about the condenser?

    Checked the ignition timing at various speeds to make sure all is okay with the advance mechanism?

    Do that and if all is well, you need to move to the fueling issues.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 10th July 2019 at 07:49 PM.
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    i'd get another condensor and try that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff1021 View Post
    points, I have over hauled the distributor, new points, coil ans d ignition leads, It now runs well idling but when going up hill it misses. Any ideas for next action?
    Geoff
    Pull out the plugs and have a look. I was pretty embarrassed by the state of mine a few years ago when this happened. Of course, we assume the right ones are in there!! In the old money, Champion L87Y but I imagine many of us use a Japanese equivalent. BP6HS is it?

    Have fun.
    JohnW

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    Quote Originally Posted by skookumchuck View Post
    i'd get another condensor and try that.
    Double that, I had the same symptoms after rebuilding my first R16 back in 1991.
    Idled beautifully, revved high. missed like hell under any load.

    New leads, rotor, rotor button, coil, fuel lines, filters, carby kit etc.. condenser was the last thing we replaced of course.


    It'll be that or vacuum advance issue imo..

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    Test spark plugs by lugging down in top gear. Slowly accelerate & if kangarooing is apparent the first respondent is on the money.
    Next is condenser.
    FI:
    Next to 90% of suspected fuel related problems eventually turn out to be ignition.
    Last edited by Artificer; 18th July 2019 at 03:53 AM.
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    bob
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    G'day,

    does the dizzy action plate have a braided earth lead ? If it's relying on tired dirty springs for an earth return you are odds on to get a miss as soon as it moves from a set spot.

    cheers,
    Bob

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    Hi. thanks all for your help! Between grandparent duties I have gone through the petrol side - all OK,
    The electrics, I tried the easy ones, new spark plugs, condenser, points but no go. Even got worse would not start at all!
    Tried the vacuum line and found I could blow and suck straight though the diaphragm, so now the distributor off the red 1967 car is on the blue ROB. Now I need fix or get new distributor.
    Still would not start but when changing the coil the positive terminal came off the lead - easy fix = now we are off!!!
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    Geoff

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    Default suggested stuff on ignition

    Give this a go:
    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff
    ....new spark plugs, condenser, points but no go. Even got worse would not start at all!
    Good idea to find if there is spark.
    1. Remove king lead from centre of distributor cap if easy. If not put a dummy lead in the coil & use the same procedure below.
    2. Either crank with ignition on & spark will jump 4mm when said lead free end is held near ground.
    Same result by: with ignition on, lead held the same way 4mm from ground, when one physically opens the points a good healthy 'bluish spark' should be obtained not puny yellow/orange.
    3. Often when replacing points folk leave out, misplace or incorrectly fit fibre or insulating washers.
    4. No spark fix the circuit between the coil, distributor, points & ground.


    Tried the vacuum line and found I could blow and suck straight though the diaphragm, so now the distributor off the red 1967 car is on the blue ROB. Now I need fix or get new distributor.
    This will not alter an ignition or starting problem markedly, just idle stability but only if enough vacuum is being lost.
    Until the ignition issue is sorted just block off the vacuum line.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Artificer View Post
    Test spark plugs by lugging down in top gear. Slowly accelerate & if kangarooing is apparent the first respondent is on the money.
    Next is condenser.
    FI:
    Next to 90% of suspected fuel related problems eventually turn out to be ignition.
    In the words of someone.."The carburetor will look down on a poorly running engine with the aloofness of an Aztec God !"

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    I have had the same problem with my Austin Healey Sprite, under load, replaced plugs all good now..

    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff1021 View Post
    points, I have over hauled the distributor, new points, coil ans d ignition leads, It now runs well idling but when going up hill it misses. Any ideas for next action?
    Geoff

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    My Zed recently did just the same thing - drove on flat in normal traffic OK ( but not booting it ), Coming up hill to home, which is at 550metres an on a road on which I am inclined to boot it ,started to miss and splutter under load, never quite stopping but never running well under any sort of load. If stopped and revved would behave. Limped home. Started OK the next morning.

    Points and condenser checked out OK - a) had been changed very recently by somebody highly competent b) passed inspection

    Fuel pressure measured, 2-3 psi, dropping when revved. The Zed has after market electric 'pusher' pump installed instead of original mechanical one ( which go through periods of being very hard to find ). Currently awaiting replacement.

    Might be worth checking pressure delivered by fuel pump at idle and under load

    Andrew

    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff1021 View Post
    points, I have over hauled the distributor, new points, coil ans d ignition leads, It now runs well idling but when going up hill it misses. Any ideas for next action?
    Geoff

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    You might check the the mesh filter above the brass nut where the near where the fuel line enters the carby.

    Did you use a dwell meter to set the points?
    Last edited by Exfrogger; 25th July 2019 at 02:13 PM.
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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    You can get vacuum capsule replacements relatively easily. If it's a Bosch dizzy, there's a place in Brisvegas that sells them for VW beetles, just get your capsule number (stamped on the tongue) and have a look. If it's french, get on ebay or the french oldies sites overseas.
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    We had a vaguely similar problem with a Floride on the recent Tour'2 France and it turned out to be a missing grub screw on the carbie body. It brought to mind a dismally poor running problem I'd had with the R8 many years ago due to a loose central venturi device in the carburetor throat. The device is critical to proper running but, held in with a grub screw, it can bend under that compressional load and work loose and rattle around, upsetting the airflow down the throat. The R10 carburettor has exactly the same device in the upper part of the throat as the R8.

    The Floride in France was awful and I was convinced it was on three cylinders but I was completely wrong. Once they plugged the hole with another screw it was fine.

    I do agree though that most carburetor problems are electric!
    Last edited by JohnW; 25th July 2019 at 04:22 AM.
    JohnW

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    Any progress?
    JohnW

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  19. #19
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    John, I believe the problem was found and fixed in post #10 - deteriorated wire on the coil.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    John, I believe the problem was found and fixed in post #10 - deteriorated wire on the coil.
    Maybe, but I didn't interpret the post quite that way. A problem was found, for sure....
    JohnW

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    Renault R8 1965 (R1130)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2005 (wife's)
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    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980 (moved on to new custodian)

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