High Volume Oil Pump for Racecar.
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Thread: High Volume Oil Pump for Racecar.

  1. #1
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    Default High Volume Oil Pump for Racecar.

    Hi All,

    A while back I have briefly touched on a self-made higher volume oil pump for the racecar. It all looked viable to me and I eventually started on the little project.

    So far it has been only a basic fitting and filing process and it was a lot of elbow grease stuff to get this far. I still need to do the finer stuff to get the clearances right and do something with the pressure relief valve. I have in the past made an adjustable relief valve which I might do again. It didn't work on the normal pump because there wasn't enough volume to bypass when the oil gets thinner as it heats up.

    The next problem might be the pick-up that can be too close or too far away from the bottom of the sump. That I will see to when I get there. Tackle the problem as they appear, don't solve it when you're not there yet.

    A few photos of the pump as it is up to now.

    This is model B as model A didn't work and the clearances were a bit out.



    A bit of hacksaw exercising.

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    This mod will increase the oil flow from the 25mm standard gears to 35mm in this case. It could be as much as 37mm but then you will need to scrap another oil pump to get enough length for the gears. I think this is about 3mm more than the MecaParts/Gordini high volume pump.

    Regards, Frans.
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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Great effort. It looks like the perfect job for a CNC mill.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    So right Peter!!

    The spacer plate then got its turn on the milling machine and shaved off to spec. I still battle with accuracy. With that I mean the 0.01 of a millimeter and I blame that on the machine. It was a cheapie bought about 30 years ago and the beginning of the Chinese imports to ZA. It could also be the fact that I'm not a machinist. There might be tricks of the trade that I need to catch up with.



    The pump assembled with a short pick-up from the early R8s with the shallower sump. I will see when I drop the sump if this will do or else I will have to make another plan.





    The next step will be to setup a sort of a test bench and run it for hours on end to see if there is any issues before I put it in the race car. The test bench will have cold oil that will put maximum stress on the drive gear and the add ons. If the oil heats up and gets thinner the pump turns easier so that will not be a test condition however, come to think of it, that will show me if there is and major leakage between the spacer plate and the pump.

    Now to join in on mothersday!

    Regards, Frans.
    Old enough to know better
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    Love the explanation and photos. Makes it all look doable.




    The word "doable" is registered to 59 Floride.
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  5. #5
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    Continued.........the test bench. I'm not in a rush with this but here are some progress made.

    The outlet is a 10.5 mm and that meant that the only tap size will have to be M12. The M12 was then tapped in the pump body.





    i then took a M12 bolt and cut to size, drilled and tapped it 1/8" BSPT to accept a fitting that will take it to either 6mm copper or PVC tubing.







    Next will be the press gauge, regulator and can of oil to circulate the test oil.

    Regards, Frans.
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  6. #6
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    You need to flycut that spacer to make sure the mating surfaces are flat and have the best finish, Frans. The mill needs to be trammed in correctly otherwise you will not have a flat surface no matter what you cut it with. In fact there is no better way to find out your mill isn't trammed than doing a flycut. Do you have test indicator? I have achieved amazing results on my cheap chinese mill, which is the smallest you can buy, but in Aluminium/soft metals it leaves a spectacular finish on flycut surfaces. Steel would be a different story, of course.

    All that aside, I would try to do a better job of clamping the work to the table.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    Hi All,

    Schlitz, I know what you mean, the tramming is very close to perfect which I set up many years ago at the time I moved into this house. I did it with a dial gauge and both the X and Y travel is within 3 thou over about 12". What I do need to do is Google and make myself a flycutter, if it can be made. I never used one yet and maybe I should do some practise runs to get the right feeding speed etc. I have however taken the spacer and finished it on a piece of glass with water paper. I have just seen on the test setup that the mating surfaces are perfect matches. No leakage.

    Everything complete and the pump is running at 500rpm which relates to about idling speed. I have just learnt that when using old stuff there can be surprises waiting. For instance this relief valve. Everything looks good and normal but it is not. I would've assembled it and fitted it in the car and the best this pump can do is 35psi!!! Obviously, there is a bad seating ballbearing or a very sloppy spring in there. Look at all the oil releasing through the press regulating port.

    From now on I will test each pump before installation, it can save a lot of work if you spend a little extra time. I actually like to find things like this. It increases your knowledge.

    This gauge can't be wrong, well I don't think it is wrong and I will test it after this exercise.



    Look at the by-pass of oil back into the sump.



    Regards, Frans.
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  8. #8
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Don't you need a stronger spring to set the valve to open at higher pressure?

    3 thou over 12 inches is probably okay for this exercise. The problem with fly cutting is that the cut becomes an arc instead of a plane if the cutter comes at an angle and it will cut a bow in your part commensurate with the diameter of the tool circle. This means a small angle out of tram can result in a big problem with a large diameter fly cutter. That is also a good method to measure tram. Take a cut with a large diameter fly cutter and then measure the bow with a test indicator.

    I was contemplating making my own fly cutter until I found out what they cost.

    You can of course use a boring head if you have one.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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