Ownership Transfer Interstate
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  1. #1
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    Default Ownership Transfer Interstate

    G'day All,

    Sorry if I've posted this question when there is information somewhere here in the Forum but I have used the search system without joy

    Can anyone give me any advice about transfer of ownership (not registration) for a vehicle moving from ACT to Queensland?

    I have a signed ACT Notice of Disposal form and the number plates. Next stop will be at a Qld Transport Dept. office but as it is a "country" office I am not expecting too much.

    Any information gratefully received.

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    Cheers

    BP

    PS I will be asking for more information re. the history of the car - burgundy 1969 R10 with a R12 motor and the rear panel smacked in.....

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    Fellow Frogger! JAJEA's Avatar
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    Transfer of ownership is pretty simple boleropilot, a receipt from the seller will suffice.

    In Victoria, you can not register a vehicle unless you own it. Hence required in Victoria is proof of ownership and a receipt has been accepted and on a few occasions the receipt was for $1.00. (However we had to come to an agreed value for stamp duty.)

    Regards,

    John

    Quote Originally Posted by boleropilot View Post
    G'day All,

    Sorry if I've posted this question when there is information somewhere here in the Forum but I have used the search system without joy

    Can anyone give me any advice about transfer of ownership (not registration) for a vehicle moving from ACT to Queensland?

    I have a signed ACT Notice of Disposal form and the number plates. Next stop will be at a Qld Transport Dept. office but as it is a "country" office I am not expecting too much.

    Any information gratefully received.

    Cheers

    BP

    PS I will be asking for more information re. the history of the car - burgundy 1969 R10 with a R12 motor and the rear panel smacked in.....

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JAJEA View Post
    Transfer of ownership is pretty simple boleropilot, a receipt from the seller will suffice.


    John
    The NSW RMS are quite clear on what they want to see written on a receipt.
    Date, , sale price, Vin, vehicle description, sellers name and address, buyers name and address.

    Jo
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    Fellow Frogger! JAJEA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by receipti View Post
    The NSW RMS are quite clear on what they want to see written on a receipt.
    Date, , sale price, Vin, vehicle descriptionthat transfer clearand address, buyers name and address.

    Jo
    Agreed, goes without saying that the receipt details seller, buyer, price and full description of the goods changing ownership (including date that transfer takes place.)
    John
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    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    I have registered a few vehicles from interstate in QLD in recent times. Just a receipt as mentioned above with the correct info, a current Safety Certificate, and I am sure your Boonah DOT office will do fine. At worst go to the one at North Ipswich.
    '56 Renault 750 (16TS Power)
    '62 Renault Dauphine Gordini
    '89 Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo
    '08 Renault Megane sedan

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    hey thanks for the input guys, I was aware that without a receipt and/or some kind of ownership proof that rego would be a problem in Qld.

    on the subject of the said vehicle but another issue - has anyone ever (apart from moi) survived the removal of the brake master cylinder without having the car on a hoist? I can tell you the air was blue around here for a couple of hours while the offending part was removed. Should I get a replacement from eBay or try Baileys (Ipswich Qld) or the Power Brakes guys in SA to get it sorted? I managed to source new seal kits for the calipers (from USA) and with my new sandblasting cabinet and parts washing cabinet, plus a touch of paint, they will be as new in no time...

    BP

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    My daughter was left a car in a will. After a year or so I decided to get it registered. They asked for a copy of the will. Too hard so they agreed a state dec would do. So armed with my stat declaration I got it registered.
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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boleropilot View Post
    has anyone ever (apart from moi) survived the removal of the brake master cylinder without having the car on a hoist? I can tell you the air was blue around here for a couple of hours while the offending part was removed. Should I get a replacement from eBay or try Baileys (Ipswich Qld) or the Power Brakes guys in SA to get it sorted? I managed to source new seal kits for the calipers (from USA) and with my new sandblasting cabinet and parts washing cabinet, plus a touch of paint, they will be as new in no time... BP
    Quite a few of us have been here I suspect. It's a bit awkward…. If I recall, the best advice I've heard came from Alan Moore, amounting to "just shear off the old bolts and replace with an Alan ( ) head bolt". From me, I'd suggest you use Koprcote or similar on the nut for next time! There will be a next time. Also, play with the master cylinder to pedal clearance before connecting up the hydraulic pipes. It's hard to get spanners on the rod adjustment with the MC in place but you can whip it in and out easily before the pipes are connected. That clearance has a big effect on pedal feel. Be careful though, as too little clearance will cause the brakes to lock.
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    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
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    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    Re the master cylinder, take it apart and if not pitted or scored, give it a quick hone and buy some new rubbers from Bailey’s for a few dollars each. I have seen plenty that have been OK to rekit. At worst a stainless sleeve will cost around $120, meaning you may be better served by buying a new master cylinder for somewhat less than that.

    I also up grade the bolts from 6 to 8mm and use plated Allen Key headed bolts for easier removal (as John has said)and fitment with socket and extension. I also find pressure bleeding the way to go, given I am usually working by myself.
    Last edited by alan moore; 27th March 2019 at 10:24 PM.
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    '56 Renault 750 (16TS Power)
    '62 Renault Dauphine Gordini
    '89 Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo
    '08 Renault Megane sedan

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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    I bought a new one for the R8 probably 10 yrs ago now, and it was lucky to last a few year. I swapped a rebuilt one from (Power Brakes) which came off my R10 and its still there.

    I’m not convinced new parts these days are as good a quality as the originals just personally.
    KB


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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    I bought a new one for the R8 probably 10 yrs ago now, and it was lucky to last a few year. I swapped a rebuilt one from (Power Brakes) which came off my R10 and its still there.

    I’m not convinced new parts these days are as good a quality as the originals just personally.
    My suspicion too. Maybe the microfinishing in the MC bore or maybe the rubber parts in the ones you buy assembled. I'd go for local reconditioning with seals they supply, or with a French seal kit.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
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    hey thanks guys for the info - I have made another post in a thread about the brakes so I'll keep chatting there too...

    the mc is seized, I took the circlip off and nothing came out of the body of the cylinder - might give it a soak in something to loosen it up (any ideas?) - molasses mix seems to work well but I'm nervous about brake parts...

    BP

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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    I bought a new one for the R8 probably 10 yrs ago now, and it was lucky to last a few year. I swapped a rebuilt one from (Power Brakes) which came off my R10 and its still there.
    Iím not convinced new parts these days are as good a quality as the originals just personally.
    Hi
    From my limited experience with new brake parts for an old car, they were poor quality. Looked ok but after fitting and sitting for some years they were rusty with the pistons siezed already I had to pull them off and clean and hone them and refitted with lots of rubber grease to try and protect them. The originals were still not like that after 50 years, just pitted. So the materials used are crap IMHO. Just what ever is cheapest to make in a third world backyard.
    Jaahn

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    know what you talkin' about, jaahnsy...I saw a video of a filthy dangerous "Asian" "workshop" producing NGK spark plugs - guys sitting on 20 litre drums surrounded by mountains of metal offcuts and filings, and a little printer in the corner spitting out NGK cardboard packets - thought I would never be a part of the problem, until I had TWO "NGK" plugs fail after a service on my car

    went back to the guys who did it (I used to work there) and they fessed up they had bought some really cheap plugs from an "Asian" guy in a van - and now they were pulling their hair out trying to sort out all the cars they put them in...

    crazy indeed, and no offence intended to any "Asians" reading this

    think I'll post it off to Power Brakes in SA, they have a brilliant reputation for this stuff

    BP

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    btw, saw a great video on YouTube showing us idiots how to recondition brake calipers - he actually sandblasted the entire unit without doing anything about protecting the bore, and with his close-ups you could see the bores ended up looking much the same as the outside of the caliper!!!

    man you really gotta be careful what you look at on YouTube - crazy coot stuff abounds !!!

    BP

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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Funny how good businesses have long life spans. I used to go there in Adelaide, and we moved to Perth 30 years ago. They were good then.....

    You've no doubt read some of our comments about the benefits of silicone brake fluid?
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
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    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
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    yeah John, definitely will be using silicone brake fluid + removal of proportioning valve + setting up low brake pad warning light (as found on R16s) and an absolute doddle to fit to any car). there really is a lot of stuff to think about with a reno of a Renaults brakes - the labour stuff is imho fairly straightforward (apart from getting that damn mc off) but I would be seriously stuffed if I did not have access to forums like this one (and advice from me mate in Boonah - g'day RR, got a little present for ya I picked up in Norfolk Island - see ya soon.

    BP

    hey John, you taking your blue machine to the muster at Inverell at Easter?

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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Hi BP.

    No, flying to Brisvegas and driving your mate RR's R10. Small world eh? Hope to see you. I've done a few trips in the 4CV, but Perth to NSW is a bit above and beyond for both of us. Maybe I'll bring the R8 to the 2021 Muster though.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boleropilot View Post
    yeah John, definitely will be using silicone brake fluid + removal of proportioning valve + setting up low brake pad warning light (as found on R16s) and an absolute doddle to fit to any car). there really is a lot of stuff to think about with a reno of a Renaults brakes - the labour stuff is imho fairly straightforward (apart from getting that damn mc off) but I would be seriously stuffed if I did not have access to forums like this one (and advice from me mate in Boonah - g'day RR, got a little present for ya I picked up in Norfolk Island - see ya soon. BP hey John, you taking your blue machine to the muster at Inverell at Easter?
    Had you considered braded hoses? They'll make them up to fit locally thanks to our Lockheed brake fittings being Imperial.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

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    Ipswich brake places have made some for me and the only problem is that the hexagonal nut is 3/4 inch (approx 19mm) and the car has notches for 17mm. I just ground the nut down to the 17 mm required no problem really.
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    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunroof View Post
    Ipswich brake places have made some for me and the only problem is that the hexagonal nut is 3/4 inch (approx 19mm) and the car has notches for 17mm. I just ground the nut down to the 17 mm required no problem really.
    I had Baileys make up some new braided hoses for the 4CV maybe 18 months ago. They looked at the 17mm base of the standard hose, and said they could have the parts the next day to make them up, which they did.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Hi BP.

    No, flying to Brisvegas and driving your mate RR's R10. Small world eh? Hope to see you. I've done a few trips in the 4CV, but Perth to NSW is a bit above and beyond for both of us. Maybe I'll bring the R8 to the 2021 Muster though.
    John, better leave now...

    Do you notice the negatives with silicone (other than having to add it to a clean system)? I've only just this week read in a trustworthy book, coincidentally, that it has 'palpably' higher compressibility (probably not an issue on older lowish performance cars) and much inferior lubrication (possibly not an issue on low km per year cars)?


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Hi Stuey,

    There are quite a few negative articles out there actually. I haven't read them for a while but they were written quite persuasively.

    I don't believe the compressibility argument at all. It IS true that it is easy to entrain small bubbles (do NOT shake the bottle!) and this assuredly won't give you a good "pedal". I did have a less than confident feel about the R8 but found it was an old hose stretching lengthwise slightly under load (you could feel it with a hand around the hose as the pedal was pressed). New braided hoses and slight adjustment to the master cylinder-pedal clearance fixed that.

    Lubrication? I've read that but haven't evidence of a problem. The R8 gets used a lot some years - a 9,000 km trip two years ago.

    After the first time use in the 4CV everything was perfect after 25 years when I changed the brakes themselves and dismantled everything. The wheel cylinders were perfect and I'd never changed the fluid in that time.

    I'm nearly 100% sure that it was specified for Harley-Davidsons for many years, and some of them rack up a lot of km in Perth (some just sit shiny too!)

    So, overall, several of us in Perth each have three decades or so of very satisfactory experience. My Renaults only were fed it as part of a major overhaul, with all the rubber bits changed for new - the write-ups indeed advise this.

    Penrite offers it as a standard product now (my first litre was Dow Corning), which seems a good endorsement.

    Overall I'm fine with it but yes, not everyone agrees.

    Cheers
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

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    Cheers John. That info was from the Bosch Automotive Handbook, which is like an engineering bible. However, 'palpable' is not quantified. Being a fluid I'd have thought it minimal.

    https://www.sae.org/publications/books/content/bosch10/ (FYI, absolutely the best technical car book out there IMO)


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Palpable means you can feel it squeeze roughly I guess, like "palpate" the verb. I've had to buy the book now you've dangled temptation in front of me...… Thanks for the link. I've relied on my Repco Engine Service Manual for many years for the things it covers.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

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