R10 Pulling off Rear Hub.
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Thread: R10 Pulling off Rear Hub.

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    Default R10 Pulling off Rear Hub.

    Got calliper off and all securing nuts but hub is firmly wedged onto the axel spline.

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    The manual calls a special tool like a gear puller to take off the hub. Of course. Donít have one, so are there any suggestions out the in AF world?

    IMG_1552804643.719046.jpg

    Angelo



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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    There was some Renault wheel 10-16 alignment tools on eBay.
    I met the guy in Cooma at the servo, got talking.
    He had a box of Renault tools in the shed.

    Might be worth a try?

  3. #3
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    Hi
    If I did not have a puller I would probably put the nut back on but backed off a half turn and drive it around for a bit carefully. It is the cone washer that would be wedged in probably combined with the rust of age. The cyclic stress of driving usually loosens things up.
    Jaahn
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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    There's a very effective Renault tool for this job - you might find one of the Renault folk in Melbourne has one. Perhaps call French Connection, Auto Paris etc?

    Are you a member of the RCCV?

    Cheers
    JohnW

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    Fellow Frogger! Melc's Avatar
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    You do know that you have to remove either the disc bolts or the caliper bracket bolts to get this hub into your hand! It's a he'll of a design

    Super c have large 2 and 3 leg pulleys that can help, but you have to free something else first

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  6. #6
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Melc View Post
    You do know that you have to remove either the disc bolts or the caliper bracket bolts to get this hub into your hand! It's a he'll of a design Super c have large 2 and 3 leg pulleys that can help, but you have to free something else first Sent from my SM-J250G using Tapatalk
    Yes, it's a handful! Worse putting it back on...…

    Mine came off for the first (and only) after about 45 years - still had the factory paint on the hub nut split pin. It was almost unbelievably tight, which explains how big and heavy the factory tool is! Still, you don't want the splines wobbly.
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    JohnW

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    Fellow Frogger! Geoff in Gully's Avatar
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    Angelo,
    I have one of those special tools. I'm across the ditch at the moment, back in a couple of weeks.
    I'll call you then.
    ... or see you at Rob Roy Interclub?
    There is a solution to every problem. There is a problem with every solution.
    • Renault R4L '63 - Descartes
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  8. #8
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    R8dream is a member of; and well known in RCCV circles John.
    KB


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    My Supermodel 63-1092's Avatar
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    He’s that well known that I had my Clio Sport Cup F1 parked next to his R8G with the RCCV display at the F1 GP.
    JohnW and R8 Dream like this.
    John
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  10. #10
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    R8dream is a member of; and well known in RCCV circles John.
    Thought so. It was an indirect hint to him about where to seek such a device....

    I've got a factory tool for this and they are SOLID. Having used it, I know why.

    I wish there were a similar service tool to get the arms off pre-1951 4CV lever shock absorber arms.....

    Cheers
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    JohnW

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  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    There's a very effective Renault tool for this job - you might find one of the Renault folk in Melbourne has one. Perhaps call French Connection, Auto Paris etc?

    Are you a member of the RCCV?

    Cheers
    Thanks John, yes I know a few folk here. Hoping they can come to the rescue!
    Angelo


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  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff in Gully View Post
    Angelo,
    I have one of those special tools. I'm across the ditch at the moment, back in a couple of weeks.
    I'll call you then.
    ... or see you at Rob Roy Interclub?
    Thanks Geoff, no hurry, that would be great. I will only need it to remove the two rear hubs .... 1/2 hr max.

    Pm or call when you get back.

    Angelo


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  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    R8dream is a member of; and well known in RCCV circles John.
    Too well know - but not for the wrong reasons I hope


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    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Melc View Post
    You do know that you have to remove either the disc bolts or the caliper bracket bolts to get this hub into your hand! It's a he'll of a design

    Super c have large 2 and 3 leg pulleys that can help, but you have to free something else first

    Sent from my SM-J250G using Tapatalk
    Yes I have all the bolts off at the rear of the hub and have the calliper off too.

    I know the have the 3 leg pulley at SCA, but what do you mean Ďbut you need to free something else firstí?

    Angelo


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  15. #15
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    I have the tool you require, what’s more is that I know where it is! I’d post a photo of it but don’t think photos on here are working properly... It secures via the wheel studs and sits over the shaft. Think you’ve got my number? Text me if you want to borrow it .

    I think what Melc means is that you either need to take the 3 bolts g holding outer hub to disc off, or remove the whole rear caliper bracket.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by angru View Post

    I think what Melc means is that you either need to take the 3 bolts g holding outer hub to disc off, or remove the whole rear caliper bracket.
    You will have to do that or the hub will come loose but cannot come off.

  17. #17
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    You can make a heavy flat plate drill three holes for the studs and tighten the wheel nuts back up. You can also use a wheel At the risk of bending the wheel by putting a spacer between said wheel and the axle end. But note carefully. At the risk of bending the wheel If you have an already damaged wheel then ok you have a puller.

  18. #18
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunroof View Post
    You will have to do that or the hub will come loose but cannot come off.
    Yes, probably best to undo the four calliper bracket bolts, then the calliper bracket is a loose handful that comes off with the hub, as it is around the disc.

    Don't try the wheel trick with French wheels, but maybe the Oz-made welded ones would be strong enough. Those hub splines can be extremely tight. Anyway, it sounds as if there are one or two of the correct tools somewhere near you.

    Cheers
    JohnW

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  19. #19
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Yes, probably best to undo the four calliper bracket bolts, then the calliper bracket is a loose handful that comes off with the hub, as it is around the disc.

    Don't try the wheel trick with French wheels, but maybe the Oz-made welded ones would be strong enough. Those hub splines can be extremely tight. Anyway, it sounds as if there are one or two of the correct tools somewhere near you.

    Cheers
    Thanks John
    As 4 nuts have been loosened.
    I also loosened the the 3 (bigger) nuts securing the bearing cap and the tie rod nut.
    The wheel trick is worth a try.
    Angelo


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  20. #20
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Sometimes i think i should just sit on the deck and read a book , old cars just consume so much time.
    Whilst looking for R8 and Fiat 600 bits i found this.


    Might be useful?
    eBay item number:
    eBay item - 173838060371
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  21. #21
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    JohnW

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    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
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  22. #22
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Thanks John, by the time postage is added, I could make it for a 1/4 of the price....but its great as it gives me an idea of how simply it can be made (subject to any copyright protections of course!)

  23. #23
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Make it twice as strong as you think it needs....
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    JohnW

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    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  24. #24
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    I am restoring my Lancia Fulvia Zagato and redoing the brakes, peculiar to this model is the master cylinder which has the ports on drivers side. Replacement master cylinders are for the Flavia and the ports are on the wrong side so you have to do all the brake lines. As well the earlier cars have the mounting paced differently.
    Replacement master cylinder is just over $700+ post from Italy.
    Reco job here in Australia is up to $700.

    I spent $240 on two sets of rubbers and both master cylinders don't pump properly so will have to be re-sleeved.
    This stuffing around cost me days and days of wasted time.
    Then the early Flavia has a faulty Girling-Dunlop booster unit, something like $1500 landed and thats not with the booster.

    You then ask yourself about wasting your own time?
    Which was why i mentioned sitting and reading a book.
    In the time i have wasted i could have studied Charles Massey's book "The Australian Merino" and done something productive.

    Factory tools always work.

  25. #25
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    Well I was able to borrow a tool from a good AF (Angru).
    I donít know whatís happened but the whole axel and hub/disk assy came off!

    It also seems wedged together and I donít see to be able to separate them!

    Is the bearing meant to come out through the hole in the back of the caliber carrier shield?

    As you can see the axel has moved about flush with the hub.

    What do I do to get this apart, forcefully tap the axel out of the hub (using club hammer with alum rod as a punch as not to damage the axel)?

    Just perplexed! I though it would just slip off without the axel coming out too?


    IMG_1553391461.733721.jpgIMG_1553391475.833854.jpgIMG_1553391489.150436.jpg



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