4CV gearbox linkages
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  1. #1
    Member Steve Turner's Avatar
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    Default 4CV gearbox linkages

    I'm of the belief that there is a kit to remedy early Porsche forward gearshift-rear transaxle linkages, and a while back, while watching an episode of the (now) American-based Wheeler Dealers, Ant Antstead came up with an engineering solution to fix the same problem in a Corvair (if I remember correctly).

    My question relates to my 4CV which has a Dauphine 4 speed box in it. Sometimes, while hunting for second (in particular) either up or down, I can't find it and have to pull over to the side of the road to recompose both myself and the gearbox. Does anyone know of a cure to this problem? Yes, I know that one would be to shoot myself, but I'd rather remain alive to enjoy the driving pleasure of this little car. Are there any cures to the vagueness of the linkages?

    Cheers,

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    Steve
    Previously (not in order):
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    Currently:
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  2. #2
    COL
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    Hi Steve

    I'm not familiar with the Dauphine gear change, but in my experience with other Renault gear linkage systems is to look for slop in the system and remove by replacing worn bushes.

    To see if its in the gearbox or gear change linkage system is to disconnect from where the selector shaft enters the gearbox and operate the gear selector and make sure you can get all the gears.

    Others with more knowledge of Dauphines will be able to explain more.
    Regards Col

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  3. #3
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    Hi Steve
    Gees its a long time ago but as I remember it there are square blocks of steel which are cross drilled at right angles for flexible joints. They have pins through the fork and block. The pins and the holes in the rod forks and blocks wear which all add up to a lot of slop. I believe I drilled them all out to 1/4 inch and put HT bolts and Nylox nuts in place of the pins. Use over length bolts so the working length is the shank without thread and cut off the rest. If you tighten them up to just minimal clearance the gear change is transformed.

    At the gear change end there are some rubber things which can be removed and the two halves can be just bolted together with spacers (or is that the later models ?) ! The gear lever sizzles a bit but the change is beaut .
    Jaahn
    Last edited by jaahn; 10th March 2019 at 08:10 PM.

  4. #4
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Jaahn's memory isn't bad.... Checking right at the gearbox is a good idea. The selector rod that comes out of the gearbox moves in and out one click each side of neutral, and rotates a bit to go between the three planes (R, 1-2 and 3-4) and probably a spring detent to make reverse impossible to get by accident.

    Speak to Frank Wicks though...

    The linkage starts with a yoke where the selector rod comes out of the gearbox. Into that fits a hardened steel block with two holes at right angles to connect with a similar yoke at the end of the linkage rod from the gearlever pivot. I've found the pins wear badly, giving a lot of slop. I've replaced the pins with long shank SS bolts and nyloc nuts. But the block was too hard to drill so I ground the holes with my Dremel to fit the bolts. It gave quite a significant improvement. I don't know whether it is exactly the same on yours, given someone else has fitted the 4-speed box.

    There's also a key roll pin in the gear selectors but if that gets too loose it will either fall out or break, each failure giving no gears permanently until it is fixed.

    There is also a pin at the gear lever end, another opportunity for slop.

    On the R8/10 gearboxes, the connection at the gearbox end is a plate with two holes, for two rubber pads that connect to an identical plate at the end of the gear linkage rod. If you have those for some reason, the pads will fail in the end, either by getting soft with oil or peeling off their connector plates, so replace them and see how it goes if yours is like that.

    Best wishes
    Last edited by JohnW; 10th March 2019 at 08:25 PM.
    JohnW

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  5. #5
    1000+ Posts geckoeng's Avatar
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    Steve,
    My answer to this is get rid of the floppy block. Connect the 2 yokes to one another with the linkage bar yoke in the gearbox yoke, and a bolt and nyloc holding it together. Needs to have a bit of play to not bind.

    Ray
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  6. #6
    Member Steve Turner's Avatar
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    Thanks to everybody for their answers.
    Previously (not in order):
    '52 Morris Minor Woodie
    56 Morris Minor 4 door Sedan
    56 Riley Pathfinder
    64 Morris 1100
    63 EJ Holden
    67 XR Falcon Fairmont
    70 Corolla SL twin carb
    74 Volkswagen Kombi Camper
    75 XB Falcon Sedan
    75 XB Falcon 302 Coupe
    75 Renault 16TS
    75 Corolla 4 door
    79 BMW 733i
    80 Datsun 200B Sedan
    86 VN Calais
    86 Falcon S Pack Wagon
    87 Nissan Skyline 4 door sedan
    95 Ford Mondeo sedan

    Currently:
    06 Peugeot 307 HDI Wagon
    61 Renault 4CV Gordini (Kermit)

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