336 Bellhousing
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Thread: 336 Bellhousing

  1. #1
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    Default 336 Bellhousing

    I have a bellhousing from a 336 gearbox(Renault 16TS). I am going to use this in a Renault R8. The clutch lever arm is going the "wrong way". It goes towards the rear of the car to disengage the clutch. Is it possible to turn the arm 180 degrees around? Do I have to disassemble the clutch arm and the release bearing carrier to do this? Thinking of the two pins that seems to hold this together.

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    Hope this was understandable

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    Is it posible to just switch the positions of the actual cable and the outer sleeve?
    On some cars the cable is fixed to the arm and the sleeve to a rigid point. On others the oposite.

    Practical example is Peugeot 106 vs Partner. Same gearbox but on the 106 the cable goes forrward under the gearbox and up an pulls the oposite way.
    (hadde selvsagt vært enklere på norsk...)
    Last edited by ReidarUF; 6th March 2019 at 11:13 PM.

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    I have thought about that, but I believe that requires a much longer cable. Have to make a custom cable maybe?

    (Skjønte hva du mente Fattern skal ha gjort dette et par ganger før. Men det er 30 år sida så han husker ikke helt )

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    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    I use the outer to operate (push)the clutch arm on my 16TS powered 4CV. You do need to leave an arc in the cable at the end to allow for it to straighten somewhat when the clutch is pushed. On my bellhousing there are two tabs which I put a small plate between to anchor the inner of the cable to. I also had to shorten the arm to get enough movement, but may be Ok on an R8.

    On my 16 powered R8 many years ago I did flip the clutch lever arm and anchored the outer on the top of the crossmember as I had a front fuel tank. This envoked much shuddering on take off as the engine would move back and forward with the engine mounts, whereas the crossmember was fixed. It worked, but was not good.
    '56 Renault 750 (16TS Power)
    '62 Renault Dauphine Gordini
    '89 Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo
    '08 Renault Megane sedan

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    Quote Originally Posted by alan moore View Post
    I use the outer to operate (push)the clutch arm on my 16TS powered 4CV. You do need to leave an arc in the cable at the end to allow for it to straighten somewhat when the clutch is pushed. On my bellhousing there are two tabs which I put a small plate between to anchor the inner of the cable to. I also had to shorten the arm to get enough movement, but may be Ok on an R8.

    On my 16 powered R8 many years ago I did flip the clutch lever arm and anchored the outer on the top of the crossmember as I had a front fuel tank. This envoked much shuddering on take off as the engine would move back and forward with the engine mounts, whereas the crossmember was fixed. It worked, but was not good.
    I have solid engine mounts, so the engine should not move. Not much at least. The solution with flipping the arm is the one I will try to go for. But is it difficult to do this?

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    To flip the arm requires two pins (tapered?) to be removed from the clutch fork, move the arm through 180 degrees, and refit the pins. These pins can be difficult to remove. I made up a receptacle for the cable end to fit into and welded this into the end of the arm. The cable outer was secured via a simple right angle bracket out of 25 x 6mm about 25mm high welded to the top of the crossmember. All of this is from memories 30 years ago, and I have never been one for taking photos along the way. I sold the R8 many years ago, and last time I checked it was sitting with numerous other Renaults in a back yard near Ferny Grove in Brisbane.
    '56 Renault 750 (16TS Power)
    '62 Renault Dauphine Gordini
    '89 Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo
    '08 Renault Megane sedan

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    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alan moore View Post
    To flip the arm requires two pins (tapered?) to be removed from the clutch fork, move the arm through 180 degrees, and refit the pins. These pins can be difficult to remove.
    The pins are difficult to remove and gets damaged in the process but there is a special tool for it Ross has one and the job is easy and no damage.

    Frans.
    Old enough to know better
    Young enough to do it anyway.

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    Thank you guys! I was afraid of that. Have to check out that special tool then.

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    "The pins are difficult to remove and gets damaged in the process but there is a special tool for it Ross has one and the job is easy and no damage.

    Use a claw hammer with a roll pin to elevate hammer!
    Don't argue it works.

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    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    My father was a builder, and a claw hammer was what we used to remove the pins for the clutch arm on my car.
    jaahn and Berridale like this.
    '56 Renault 750 (16TS Power)
    '62 Renault Dauphine Gordini
    '89 Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo
    '08 Renault Megane sedan

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    Thanks for the tip Are there any damage to the pins with this method?

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    Are there any damage to the pins with this method?

    No.

    However if you come to want drama you can always run-amok and do it another way.

    Doubters always seem disappointed when it is so easy.

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    Going to find a hammer and give it a go later today

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    Use the roll pin to punch to elevate the hammer, otherwise you pull in the wrong direction. Sideways!
    Follow the instructions or you will damage the pins.
    Then your screwed!
    Last edited by Berridale; 18th March 2019 at 10:10 PM.

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    Any more advice? Tried with the hammer and roll pin, but gave up before I destroyed something. Didn't find a good way to position everything.

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    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by R8RX View Post
    Any more advice? Tried with the hammer and roll pin, but gave up before I destroyed something. Didn't find a good way to position everything.
    Some of those pins are very tight.

    I have half of the proper tool (the part with the tread and the special end that goes over the exposed part of the pin). I have made up the outer part.

    I tried the tool out on a R18 bell housing that I have here but could not shift the pin. I did put a bit of pressure on and gave it a few taps with a hammer but it is still stuck fast.

    When I get a bit of time will have another go and report back.

    In the past when I have not needed to keep the bell housing I have drilled a hole from the gearbox side of the bell housing and used a drift to punch out the pins.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
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    Thanks. I have to use this bellhousing since it is the only one I've got. So maybe I am a bit to careful. But yes, these pins seems to be stuck.

    An other option is to find a much longer clutch cable so I can use the bellhousing as it is.

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    Hi R8RX
    Perhaps you did not understand Alan Moore when he said he changed the operation of his cable to use the inner cable as the fixed part and the outer sleeve then moved the correct way to push on the lever. I suggest you draw a picture for your self to understand the operation of it ! Seems like a good solution to me. Some cars use that way to do it.

    When I did these thing years ago we found that it was possible to avoid clutch shudder by being careful with the run of the cable. It must have some extra length so " You do need to leave an arc in the cable". That means it has some movement as the engine and transmission moves slightly or more when the clutch bites. It does not matter how stiff your mounts are it will move a bit and cause shudder if the cable is straight and tight. VW had the same problems back in the old days also. Their manuals always showed how to ensure the cable has some extra length to form a bend or arc to ensure the problem does not occure.
    If you need to ask again what the problem is do so.
    Jaahn
    Here is a picture of a VW clutch cable with the arc or bend as recommended in the clutch cable (bowden tube or outer).
    Last edited by jaahn; 20th March 2019 at 07:16 AM.
    ReidarUF likes this.

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    I believe I understand it now And yes, seems to be a good solution.

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