Clio 2 1.4 (2006) ECU warning light on - help?
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Thread: Clio 2 1.4 (2006) ECU warning light on - help?

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    Default Clio 2 1.4 (2006) ECU warning light on - help?

    Hi guys,

    My son's Clio 1.4 has just started misfiring and the ECU/glowplug light has lit up. I haven't seen the car yet but he needs it sorted pronto and I'm hoping there's a common issue that we can check for.

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    To avoid confusion, this is NOT the engine shaped light; it's the one that looks like a screen with a zigzag on it (oscilloscope?) and a coil of wire.

    The car won't go over 2500 rpm 90km/h.

    I've of course done the internet troll and have found about 100 thnigs that could cause this, from wiring loom issues to dodgy sensor plugs to all sorts of other unrelated things. However, I was hoping in a very late example of this model the loom wire breaking issue might have been sorted.

    Can anyone advise if they know of this problem and what it may be?

    Cheers

    Stuey


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    I should add, it has run perfectly for a couple of years now since it had new coils fitted when purchased.


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    COL
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    At a guess I would say a pencil coil.

    To get a better idea you need to hook up OBDii scanner and read the code/s and go from there.
    Regards Col

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    Col, last time there was a coil issue it caused the check engine light to illuminate, not the ECU light.

    Yeah, I know a local mech that can do a code check, but was hoping to get some ideas. Apparently, there is an issue on some Clios with the loom being worn through and causing this but I'm not sure which models exactly. So the OBD scanners are of no use in these cases as they indicate incorrectly that certain devices are faulty, and you end up replacing things that are OK (unless you have a good operator I guess).


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    The OBD analyser will not tell you what the exact problem is, but from the codes it will tell you where to start looking for the problem.

    You will still have to do the old fashioned diagnosis.
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    Regards Col

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    It may pay to read up on OZRS or ask the question there
    John
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    Thanks guys.

    An update for the archive; I quickly read up on the similar problems many had in the UK while I was at lunch during work. MANY had spent hundreds of pounds getting misdiagnoses from Renault dealers blindly following the computer, replacing all sorts of things, then the problem not being fixed. We're talking throttle body, throttle potentiometer, throttle pedal, rewiring pedal loom (pattern here?) CAS, whole ECU, and it goes on. There is apparently a service bulletin about removing the connector to the throttle pedal and hard wiring it (solder) to prevent some problem as well.

    The two most common issues I gleaned although there were all sorts of red herrings were the wires wearing through in the loom near the ECU (Renault having made a replacement and a modified cover part) and some reported a PROPER clean of the throttle body fixing theirs. So I read this as two problems because some reported the throttle body new replacement not fixing the problem.

    My son works as an apprentice marine mechanic, so he got the car in the workshop and cleaned the throttle body as best he could in his short lunch break, and the car appears to be fine. However, I'm aware of how these things can be intermittent and have warned him about it. He's going in to work this morning to do it properly - they clean multiple throttle bodies on boat engines on a daily basis so are pretty good at it!

    My take on this is that the two problems are unrelated and there's a throttle body issue and a loom issue. His car is a very late one in the second Clio series so should have had the updated loom and cover, but I haven't yet had a chance to look.

    I should add, a Renault tech on a UK forum said the throttle body when dirty gives feedback (via increased current draw or resistance?) to the ECU which throws it awry hence the error. I can't explain the examples where a new part didn't fix it other than the loom issue causing the same codes to be raised. Certainly, back when this Clio was more current in the UK there were a lot of unhappy campers over this particular problem.

    Anyway, I'm tentatively happy because I don't think I'll have to rebuild part of the loom...

    I'll update this thread if there are any developments like a recurrence, for the knowledge.

    As an aside, I've often wondered if some manufacturers OBD performance is better than others (being aware fo course that the manufacturers buy in their electrics). That is, do some manufacturers have better diagnostics systems which ultimately produce a better experience for the mechanic and thus the customer through more reliable diagnostics? Something I ponder when I'm bored. Like now you might say by the length of this post...

    Stuey
    Last edited by Stuey; 2nd February 2019 at 01:55 PM.
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    Glad your getting somewhere with fixing your problem Stuey.

    With the OBD analyser you don't only get codes but you can also look at live data, which is very useful for doing the diagnostics. (ie if you get a code for a faulty temp sensor you can look at the sensor with lice data and get real time reading, if the reading is not what you think it should be there is a good chance that you have found the problem)

    These analysers are invaluable when it comes to fault finding on a modern car, the trouble some so called modern motor technicians jump to conclusions from the fault code given and do the trial and error trouble shooting which from above some people have found an expensive exercise.

    When I have found a suspect sensor are part I like to test it to make sure that I have the faulty part before I order a spare.

    Also apart from an OBD analyser a multimeter is also handy item as well for doing tests.
    Regards Col

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    Why not ring Corrado and ask him? They must see plenty of Clios.

    Just a thought....

    Cheers
    JohnW

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    Thanks Col, yeah I know a good operator would not just replace parts and I also would test things as best I could (I have three multimeters I use all the time in my electronics hobby) but I was just putting the info out there. I read of one fellow who spent over a grand (GBP) replacing random parts AT A DEALERSHIP and the problem didn't go away.

    John, I'm not sure about calling Corrado.
    Last edited by Stuey; 3rd February 2019 at 12:15 PM.


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    Tentative was correct, because the light has come back on again today and the car is in limp home mode again.

    I will nned to buy an OBD code reader ASAP.

    Col, if you pop in here, do you have any recommendations or are they pretty much equal? EBay?


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    COL
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    Stuey

    I have one of these and find it good.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/iCarsoft...cvz9:rk:2:pf:0

    There is another thread here somewhere discussing OBD readers. There are other brands that work well as well.
    Regards Col

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    I was hoping to buy a more generic one so I could use it for the other four brands of car we have. I know it wouldn't be as useful, but what do you reckon? The above one is available in Australia.


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    The one COL linked was more generic I thought. Just that they highlight the Renault features as a Renault listing perhaps?
    KB


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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    The one COL linked was more generic I thought. Just that they highlight the Renault features as a Renault listing perhaps?
    As far as I know these are programmed pacifically for a make/s and certain models. They have different model numbers. I think you would be able to use it on other manufacturers cars, but can't vouch for this as I have only used it on my Laguna II.
    Regards Col

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuey View Post
    I was hoping to buy a more generic one so I could use it for the other four brands of car we have. I know it wouldn't be as useful, but what do you reckon? The above one is available in Australia.
    Check out this site Stuey

    https://scantoolcenter.com/
    Regards Col

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    Oh, thanks guys. This forum's great! I raced out and bought one; maybe a little exxy for what I got when you compare to some of the ones available, but we want to run some tests asap and didn't want to wait for an online order so I grabbed a Foxwell NT204 from Total Tools near home. If I bought a pup I'll report back. Like the one on this link, but I got it for $99.

    I'm a complete novice at this code business and haven't even extracted codes from the old Mi16 via the flashing lights bizzo (the OBD equivalent of a horse stamping its foot a number of times). Looking forward to having a crack at it and seeing what it can tell me. The instruction book may has well be a stamping horse as well...

    https://www.fueleconomysolutions.com.au/foxwell-nt204-obd-ii-car-engine-code-reader


    Last edited by Stuey; 5th February 2019 at 09:46 PM.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuey View Post
    Oh, thanks guys. This forum's great! I raced out and bought one; maybe a little exxy for what I got when you compare to some of the ones available, but we want to run some tests asap and didn't want to wait for an online order so I grabbed a Foxwell NT204 from Total Tools near home. If I bought a pup I'll report back. Like the one on this link, but I got it for $99.

    I'm a complete novice at this code business and haven't even extracted codes from the old Mi16 via the flashing lights bizzo (the OBD equivalent of a horse stamping its foot a number of times). Looking forward to having a crack at it and seeing what it can tell me. The instruction book may has well be a stamping horse as well...

    https://www.fueleconomysolutions.com.au/foxwell-nt204-obd-ii-car-engine-code-reader


    Looks like it should do the job Stuey
    Regards Col

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    Well I've just tried it and it doesn't pick up any codes at all and there were none stored even though the ECU light on the dash illuminated while testing.

    The screen announced 'No codes stored on module'.

    I'm not sure if that means there are none or the device just isn't detecting them. It was certainly interfacing, as it displayed RPM, intake air temp etc. I played with the throttle pedal connector, stopped and restarted the car and went for a drive and the ECU light didn't reappear. But without codes it's a stab in the dark. To be honest it's not very intuitive to use.

    Should a 2006 model be pretty informative in an OBD sense (the reader says it's EOBD) or is it pretty basic?

    We may need to fork out for the mobile Renault mech it seems. The damn thing spluttered pulling across traffic today so is dangerous.


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    I know this sounds obvious but have you checked and/or cleaned the TDC sensor?
    These are relatively easy to get at and clean and are known to cause rough running or stalling when dirty (which is quite often).
    "I cannot help but notice that there is no problem between us that cannot be solved by your departure. Mark Twain"

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    Quote Originally Posted by REN TIN TIN View Post
    I know this sounds obvious but have you checked and/or cleaned the TDC sensor?
    These are relatively easy to get at and clean and are known to cause rough running or stalling when dirty (which is quite often).
    The taco needle can be observed closely to help decide that the TDC sensor is not giving a solid reading.

    I can't help thinking there might be a problem with the accelerator pedal sender and associated wire
    Check the cabling and plugs/pins carefully and use some wonder goop on them. I use vasso as my wonder goop.

    Jo
    Last edited by jo proffi; 6th February 2019 at 09:29 AM.

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    I'd be interested to come over and have a look Stuey, in a 2006 Scenic II.
    JohnW

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    OK guys, I had a think last night. The check engine light doesn't illuminate (it's the ECU/glowplug light). I have this feeling that the basic OBD scanner will only pick up codes that are emissions specific (in other words, affect the running of the engine directly), so my thoughts about it being throttle pedal related are coming to the fore and now Jo has suggested the same. I think, and I may be wrong, that certain throttle issues such as say an intemittent connector would not cause a code because it doesn't cause an issue which make any of the running related sensors operate outside their parameters. However, the disruption to the connection tells the ECU there's an issue so it throws up the light and goes into limp home. TBH it's probably unnecessary for the system to do this and IMO is a poor setup. I have a feeling that if a code is generated that would show on this tool, it would also cause the check engine light to illuminate. A Renault specific scanner would of course give manufacturer related codes and would probably tell me of a throttle issue (or whatever).

    As I mentioned I've read about throttle problems and a service bulletin about the pedal pot connector. I'm going to go over the throttle loom today with a fine tooth comb and play with the pins in the pedal connector to tighten them, use contact cleaner, use pure silicone grease and cable tie the socket so it can't move. As it is, it moves about 3mm in and out quite easily - not conducive to maintaining a consistent and minimal resistance which is what the ECU would sense.

    As an aside, I tried the OBD tool with my wife's 2009 Mondeo and it works very well, with real time graphs of certain sensors etc. With the Clio it was telling me it was not fully ready (I/M Readiness?) as the car hadn't been driven enough - I'm guessing this is because of the light coming on and off.

    John, no need to come over, I'm a gun. Thanks anyway. I've had to take a day's annual leave but should be at work nailing criminals.

    Thanks for the input all.
    Last edited by Stuey; 6th February 2019 at 12:10 PM.


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    Very funny. Actually I was thinking I might learn something, as I couldn't see how another head was going to help except for moral support!

    Hope it is on the mend.

    Cheers
    JohnW

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