807-13 Rebuild
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 16 of 16
Like Tree13Likes
  • 1 Post By JohnW
  • 1 Post By COL
  • 1 Post By driven
  • 3 Post By alan moore
  • 1 Post By COL
  • 1 Post By schlitzaugen
  • 1 Post By Bernie
  • 1 Post By Exfrogger
  • 3 Post By schlitzaugen

Thread: 807-13 Rebuild

  1. #1
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    5

    Default 807-13 Rebuild

    HI:I am about to reassemble a 807 and wondered if there was a PDF of a manual showing me the dos and do nots.I have rebuilt other wet sleeve engines but it's what you don't know that can sink you.
    Thanks

    Advertisement

  2. #2
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    10,157

    Default

    Welcome here! Good start too - best to get it right!! There's always something cute you need to know....

    Have you joined the Renault Owners Club of North America? You'll find some companions there too.

    Cheers
    Bernie likes this.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  3. #3
    COL
    COL is offline
    A110 COL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Van Diemen's Land
    Posts
    3,713

    Default

    There is a couple of R17 workshop manuals on Ebay that will have the information that you require

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-1972-1...hbuRSj&vxp=mtr

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-1972-1...pbuQ0j&vxp=mtr
    Bernie likes this.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1995 Renault Laguna V6
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  4. #4
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    5

    Default

    HI:Yes those look good but they want 50.00CND shipping costs and Canada is right next door.
    Believe it or not its cheaper to mail stuff from GB or Aus than from a 2 hour drive from Toronto!!!

  5. #5
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Hi JohnW:Thanks it is now on my to do list.
    I just finished restoring a Sunbeam Tiger and am enjoying the autumn weather before a crazy season comes here to Canada called:winter.(snow, ice etc)

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts driven's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,258

    Default

    Get it free

    65 Mb download, very detailed

    Renault R-17 Workshop Manual
    Bernie likes this.

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Ipswich, Queensland.
    Posts
    1,826

    Default

    Most important thing when assembling is to get the liner heights right, and I use Loctite No. 3 non hardening sealant at the liner seals, as the blocks generally have some corrosion around the liner bases now.
    COL, JohnW and Bernie like this.

  8. #8
    COL
    COL is offline
    A110 COL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Van Diemen's Land
    Posts
    3,713

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by alan moore View Post
    Most important thing when assembling is to get the liner heights right, and I use Loctite No. 3 non hardening sealant at the liner seals, as the blocks generally have some corrosion around the liner bases now.
    The next most important is to get the head gasket on in the right place and torqued down in the correct sequence.
    Bernie likes this.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1995 Renault Laguna V6
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts driven's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,258

    Default

    Didn't the 807-13 have o-rings on the liners.

    Also check out

    Donor Cars

  10. #10
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    10,157

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by alan moore View Post
    Most important thing when assembling is to get the liner heights right, and I use Loctite No. 3 non hardening sealant at the liner seals, as the blocks generally have some corrosion around the liner bases now.
    That's an interesting and pertinent comment, having watched the assembly of Shoji's engine by Geckoeng. Liner seats were indeed a bit dubious but repaired. I'll look into Loctite #3, for which thanks.

    I've just torqued down the head on my Dauphine-Estafette-Gordini engine, to be known as DEG in the future. I ended up with 6 thou to 8 thou proud, as all other copper rings were less than 4 thou. So I went for a bit more rather than a bit less and managed to avoid shimming too-thin copper rings. I imagine Loctite #3 would be good for shimmed liner seals - shimming being common/standard practice among some of the Southern African folk I know!

    Cheers
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    loneliness capital of the world
    Posts
    8,388

    Default

    Some idiot has posted this in the wrong thread:

    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    I was going to add pretty much the same things.

    Manuals are very good, but they don't warn you of problems that did not exist on the assembly line.

    I would first check the block to make sure it's ready to go. This includes corrosion at the liner base, straightness of the crank tunnel, roundness of bearing blocks, deck height/flatness/straightness. If any machining is necessary better do it before you start to put stuff in.

    This means you will need to do some test assembly with the liners in and checking protrusion height as well as liner seat sealing, block deck height/straightness/flatness.

    How's the crank? All good? Checked?

    Camshaft?

    Rocker arms? These can have side play on the shafts. The shafts may be worn, or the rocker arms, or both. What's the state of the pushing pads on the rocker arms? All good?

    Tappets need to be perfectly flat. Are they? Is the case hardened surface intact?

    And so on.

    The book(s) don't help much with any of this, but if you have experience as you say and a handy engine shop around the corner, shouldn't be a drama.
    Bernie likes this.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  12. #12
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    5

    Default

    HI:
    Thanks for the advice and URL's.
    "If any machining is necessary better do it before you start to put stuff in."Its all been ground and plasti-gauged.
    When I did the other wet sleeve I used a dial indicator to make sue of the protrusion height(amount and equal)
    The head gasket has to set just so and I have made threaded dowels to try to make sure of a perfect landing.
    I appreciate it all because any job undertaken is way better done properly the first time.
    Thanks again
    Bernie
    JohnW likes this.

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Geraldton
    Posts
    1,470

    Default

    Hi Bernie

    Ditto the above remarks.

    If the liners are not new check for pitting on the liner lands (where the seal sits).

    When checking for corrosion in the block where the liners sit also note if there is any scale build up, This might also be small bits of the previous seal. Pick at this with a suitable tool. I've also run around the lands with a soft brass rotary brush on an electric drill.

    The seals around the rear main seal are fiddly and need careful attention.

    If the crankshaft is out, locate the seal on the journal before installing the cranshaft. Install the CS and locate the the journal cap over the seal and tighten as per the book. The chances of finding the appropriate mandrel - and one on good condition - are remote.

    The precise location of the head on the block and the correct torque settings on these engines seem to be a little more critical than on other engines. Using fine bottle brushes to clean the the threads taking the head studs makes a difference as does wire brushing the studs bolts themselves. An air line, degreaser and acetone are your friends here. A test i like to perform is having cleaned the threads, finger tighten all the bolts without the head on. They should all be equally easy to tihten.

    Dressing the cam follower faces is recommended as is radius grinding the rocker arms. Both these can be done at home if you're patient.

    That said, these motors is pretty straight forward, its a blessing that they are so light too.

    P
    Bernie likes this.
    Daily Drivers: R10, R12, R17T(?) Decouvrable

    In the Shed(s):
    R8 (1.4 motor, 4 shock rear end), Dauphine, Pugeot 404

    In the Past:
    Dauphine X2, R10 X lots, R12 X2, R16TS, R17TS

  14. #14
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    10,157

    Default

    The only thing I'd add after many hours recently doing this is to be absolutely certain of the cleanliness of all oil passages, including crankshaft and rocker shaft drillings. I removed the end plugs and put a lot of effort into getting some nasty, abrasive sludge out. It just kept coming..... Nothing to do specifically with wet sleeve motors of course.

    Cheers
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  15. #15
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    5

    Default

    HI John W:
    I had the block dipped, power-washed and re-dipped and top and bottom trued at an engine re-builder here in town.
    Al blocks can get warped if they over heat somewhere in their past life.
    All hints and watch-out-fors are appreciated.
    Bernie

  16. #16
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    loneliness capital of the world
    Posts
    8,388

    Default

    I would say you still need to take the core plugs out and clean the oil passages. I have had my block dipped as well, but there are small oil passages that do not get cleaned. I used small bottle brushes like those used for guns and a pressure washer for the smaller passages going to the crank bearings and such.

    Or maybe you want to trust your cleaning place.

    Another one I just remembered is the rocker arm shafts. These have core plugs in the ends as well. You need to remove those and clean inside. There are copious amounts of muck that collects inside until the rocker shaft is blocked and you have no oiling of the bearing surfaces of the rocker arms.
    JohnW, Sunroof and Bernie like this.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •