R8/R10 Upper/Lower ball joint separation!!
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Thread: R8/R10 Upper/Lower ball joint separation!!

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
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    Default R8/R10 Upper/Lower ball joint separation!!

    To anybody that has been through the agonizing process of separating the ball joints on the Upper and Lower wishbones please tell me what you used. I need to get my front springs out.

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    Large hammers have bounced off, my knuckles are bleeding there must be a simpler way.

    I don't want to try a pickle fork as they wreck the rubber boots and I want to keep the ball joints as they are still very good.

    Nor do I want to use oxy as the heat will destroy the rubber.

    So any other ideas would be very appreciated.
    Thanks Guys
    Phil

  2. #2
    COL
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    Hi Phil

    I use something similar to this:

    https://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/...d4t7d960jscir2

    Mine is Facom brand.

    I use it to preload the taper and tap the joint with a couple of hammers to free the taper.
    Sunroof likes this.
    Regards Col

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    VIP Sponsor 59 Floride's Avatar
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    G'day Phil,

    I made one of these a few years ago and it worked a treat, but I made it from mild steel so it deformed after a couple of uses. I have since made one from better steel. I can give yŠll the dimensions if you want to have a lash at making one yourself?

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R8/R10 Upper/Lower ball joint separation!!-ftg.jpg   R8/R10 Upper/Lower ball joint separation!!-chgm.jpg  

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    I used a exhaust manifold spreader for a 350 chev engine but all it was is a piece of hex stock with 2 fine threaded bolts in it one left hand thread and one right hand thread it acts like a turn buckle as you wind out the bolts against the spindles . It could easily be built with a piece of square stock drilled and tapped for a grade 8 or hardened bolt that could be threaded out to separate the joints . Frist time I used it I didn't leave the fasting nut partially on the ball joint so when one separated and fell away it was not long enough to catch the remaining joint so I used a puller for the remaining joint because it now had room to be used .

    Hope this is helpful

    Manic GT

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
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    Thanks Col. I saw a demo of this being used and I think the guy over the road might have one as he does up old Classic American cars. I'll check him out tomorrow. Thanks for your reply.
    Cheers Phil




    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    Hi Phil

    I use something similar to this:

    https://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/...d4t7d960jscir2

    Mine is Facom brand.

    I use it to preload the taper and tap the joint with a couple of hammers to free the taper.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
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    Thanks 59 Floride. It looks perfect for the job and I'll have a go at it if I can't get the other spreader from over the road.
    Cheers
    Phil

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
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    OK, thanks Manic GT. Might have a go at the others first and see what happens.
    Cheers Phil

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    Hi Phil,

    I've always used much the same as KB and they've come apart but your car's have probably been together for longer than mine as I changed them after only about 35 years if I recall correctly. I've also fitted grease nipples as the lowers tend to dry out and give an irregular cracking noise - very disconcerting - after some years. I have a split rubber on one but the grease coming out stops the dirt coming in, at least that's my excuse for not fixing it!

    For 59Floride, there's a market for those spreader/splitters I reckon. Perhaps a small market... Neat.

    Perhaps the tiniest smear of Copper Coat or some anti-sieze grease when you refit them.

    Cheers

    Quote Originally Posted by 59 Floride View Post
    G'day Phil,

    I made one of these a few years ago and it worked a treat, but I made it from mild steel so it deformed after a couple of uses. I have since made one from better steel. I can give yŠll the dimensions if you want to have a lash at making one yourself?
    Last edited by JohnW; 27th September 2018 at 02:50 PM.
    JohnW

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    I have used one like Cols for many years to the point where it is bent and has had to have some welded repairs. Not sure about 8/10's but 12/15/17 replacement ball joints are held on with small bolts (on top of the wish bone not through it) rather than the original rivets and are therefore easy to remove with out damage. New generic rubber boots were available for 12/15/17's from Autopro or similar. I bought a couple of packets at the time they didn't quite fit at the base but were longer and once the joint was bolted up they were held tightly in place.

  10. #10
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Bent!! Wow..... The replacement ones for R8/10 have bolts too, replacing rivets.
    JohnW

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  11. #11
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    I have the FACOM tool as well. They are the special tool suppliers to Renault. Top quality tools that make the task easy. Never had one that posed a problem.
    www.r8gordiniregister.com
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  12. #12
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    The tool described by Manic is what I used. Basically a screw jack in miniature. No effort, no damage. It was also the Renault factory tool in my R10 manual. It had a hex body and a fine pitch thread screw in one end (you don't need two screws). It pushed one balljoint against the other just like the other tool illustrated above.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 26th September 2018 at 10:00 PM.
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    1000+ Posts driven's Avatar
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    Time for the Bush Mechanic again.

    Option 1 normally works. Need to hit joint at an angle see link as good as many

    https://www.instructables.com/id/Spl...l-joint-taper/

    Option 2

    Undo the retaining nut half a turn only.

    Then go down a potholed road.

    With luck, joint will be free

    Taper joints are meant to lock together any lube is bad. Truckies never do any
    JohnW likes this.

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    Hi fellow Froggers. Thank you all for your help on this post.
    Today I had a good friend turn up with a home made Renault Ball Joint removal tool. The ball joints were determined little suckers but eventually gave way to the force exerted on them by the Renault Ball joint Removal tool and many hammer blows.
    So, onward and upward " I Hope "
    Cheers Phil
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  15. #15
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Interesting how strong the stub axle assembly must be! Good you got them off. I reckon fitting grease nipples is a good idea FWIW. They don't need regular greasing but it's good to know they aren't drying out.

    Cheers
    JohnW

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    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  16. #16
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    The uprights and steering arms are drop forged so are pretty strong. If you run a file across one you can tell how hard the metal is.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using aussiefrogs mobile app
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