renault 10 brake calipers
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Thread: renault 10 brake calipers

  1. #1
    Member Gordini61jr's Avatar
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    Default renault 10 brake calipers

    I have a query about the brake caliper pistons, when removing the piston from the old caliper and you push it out from the back, the self adjuster bolt pushes up inside the piston. How do you get that back out? As the piston was seized inside the caliper i had to tap the adjuster bolt to get the piston out of the caliper. If anyone could help that would be great. cheers Liam

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    Liam,

    Hold the piston in something soft in a vice and turn the nut back on. Lever it with a big screw driver at first or imagineer something but it will and has to come out to clean behind the washer that you can see on the inside.

    Once cleaned you can press it back with the vice but make very sure the opening of that spring washer lines up with the dot on the front of the piston and you can push it in as far as you like because maybe you have new pads to go in. When you put the piston back into the aluminium housing, the dot on the piston that you lined up with the gap of the spring washer must be on top. The same point the nipple is so that air that might be trapped behind the washer can escape through the gap and that air bubble will then move to the nipple to bled out of the system.

    Regards, Frans.
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  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    Hi,

    Sorry, forgot. After the brakes are bled, the hydraulic pressure will push the piston back out until where the pads will stop it when they touch the rotor.

    Frans
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    Young enough to do it anyway.

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    Fellow Frogger!
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    hi Liam, been a while since I have done r8/10 calipers but if I remember correctly

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    gawd it's old blokes fat fingers not working properly. now I do remember that copper washer goes on piston side of bolt and don't turn caliber upside down until bolt end starts through caliper hole or washer may drop in behind piston.... old Jim

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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    That's interesting. I can't remember ever pulling the adjusters out of the pistons in 45 years of ownership. I've cleaned them by rinsing with meths, if I've ever even done it. Never had the slightest problem in that area. Push them in for new pads or just before dismantling the callipers to clean and polish and re-seal and then let the brake system push them out again.

    I use a carpentry "G"-cramp to push them in.

    As Frans said, do get the alignment of dots and stuff correct. I reckon, providing the piston surface is reasonable, THE issue is cleaning and polishing the groove in the calliper for the 'o' ring seal to seat. That corrosion issue is why some of us use silicone brake fluid.

    Good luck with it.
    JohnW

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    What's the best way of polishing the groove? I've got a leaky caliper which a new seal kit hasn't fixed.

    Sent from my LT29i using aussiefrogs mobile app

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    I have used a dremel under a strong magnified light to polish up that groove with good success.

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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Sharpen your old toothbrush into a smaller point.
    KB


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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    I use the non-bristle end of a toothbrush, bent at 90 degrees and reshaped to fit the groove loosely, then fairly fine wet and dry rubbing paper wrapped around it. It's a bit fiddly but works.

    I guess the correct wheel on a Dremel would do the job, but you'd need to be super-careful not to deepen the groove too much in one place. I'm not sure which wheel I'd use - a cloth one with fine grinding paste maybe?

    Hope to hear you've fixed it.

    Cheers
    JohnW

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    Good info, thanks guys. Maybe the small wire brush on a Dremel too?
    It's in the shop at the moment, I have left all things braking to the professionals so for.

    Sorry for hijacking your thread Liam!

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
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    Best way to clean the calipers is to have them media blasted. Its much more conservative than manual brushing/scraping and with a polish of the piston will ensure stick free operation.

    I once spent ages pulling these things apart chasing sticky pistons, but once properly done they were fine.
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    They also need to be used regularly or they seize up again.

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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    I've used my sandblaster in the past (with the special grit from hare and forbes) with reasonable results, But I heard aluminium needs to be treated gently; and of course cleaned thoroughly to ensure all the grit is removed or it could play havoc with the new seals and cleaned pistons.
    KB


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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunroof View Post
    They also need to be used regularly or they seize up again.
    So right, especially with non-silicone fluids.....
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

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    Thanks guys, that's exactly what I needed to know. cheers Liam
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