Renault 16 ..how to open a locked petrol cap?
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Thread: Renault 16 ..how to open a locked petrol cap?

  1. #1
    1000+ Posts dogboy's Avatar
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    Default Renault 16 ..how to open a locked petrol cap?

    aaarrrggghh
    When I recently got this 16 the key for glovebox,hatch and petrol cap were missing..
    the petrol cap thankfully wasn't locked and I filled up with petrol but on going to fill her up today I couldn't as somehow the cap has locked...how could that be?
    anyway..it is booked in for a RWC on Monday so I need to be able to get some fuel in or I will have to cancel
    any ideas folks?

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    A locksmith tried to use lock picks to unlock my 17 petrol cap without any success, he ended up drilling it out. Then I had to find a replacement cap. I was worried about sparks from the drill but he wasn't.

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    Which cap is it? The PJ Journee caps sometimes have similar keys.
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    COL
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    Short of being lucky and finding a key that will open the fuel cap, drilling out the barrel is the only option I can think of.
    Regards Col

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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    Short of being lucky and finding a key that will open the fuel cap, drilling out the barrel is the only option I can think of.
    And be careful of the hot swarf becoming an ignition source.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon View Post
    Which cap is it? The PJ Journee caps sometimes have similar keys.
    what I don't get is how did it manage to lock? it was open when I got the car...very strange
    Is the barrel keyed the same as the glovebox? if so I have the lock out of the glovebox ready to have a key cut
    Renault 16 ..how to open a locked petrol cap?-img_2941.jpg
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    Had the same problem once. Work a screwdriver with a driver shank and usevan adjustable spanner to turn it. Worked for me. But brutal

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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    And be careful of the hot swarf becoming an ignition source.
    You are only drilling the barrel, do not go all the way through. If you are worried squirt some water on the drill bit to keep it cool.

    Most petrol caps of that era are made of die cast metal, the tumblers are also pretty soft.

    Also a sharp drill bit will create less heat than one not so sharp.
    Regards Col

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    Quote Originally Posted by dogboy View Post
    what I don't get is how did it manage to lock? it was open when I got the car...very strange
    Is the barrel keyed the same as the glovebox? if so I have the lock out of the glovebox ready to have a key cut
    Click image for larger version. 

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    All the petrol caps that I have here, the keys are symmetrical.

    Your cap looks after market.

    I have the types that require the key to lock the cap into position, and also the type that require the key to open and then spring return to the lock position and you just push them into the filler neck and they lock automatically.
    Regards Col

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    Just thinking outside the square.

    Could you remove the filler neck assembly completely and work on the bench ?

    May be easier and allow the use of other tools.
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    All the petrol caps that I have here, the keys are symmetrical.

    Your cap looks after market.

    I have the types that require the key to lock the cap into position, and also the type that require the key to open and then spring return to the lock position and you just push them into the filler neck and they lock automatically.
    Definitely not the same as the one on my 16 either. Sorry. The only thing I can think of is drilling it out as has already been suggested.
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    Just thinking outside the square.

    Could you remove the filler neck assembly completely and work on the bench ?

    May be easier and allow the use of other tools.
    Unfortunately not Rob the filler neck is part of the tank just like on the R12 sedans.
    Regards Col

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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    Unfortunately not Rob the filler neck is part of the tank just like on the R12 sedans.
    Ah. I was hoping it was similar to a 404 with a neoprene hose connection.
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    All the petrol caps that I have here, the keys are symmetrical.

    Your cap looks after market.

    I have the types that require the key to lock the cap into position, and also the type that require the key to open and then spring return to the lock position and you just push them into the filler neck and they lock automatically.
    The petrol cap is an original lockable option available from Renault...purchased as an option on the car..
    I'll put a photo up of the sales receipt when I find my camera..
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogboy View Post
    what I don't get is how did it manage to lock? it was open when I got the car...very strange
    Is the barrel keyed the same as the glovebox? if so I have the lock out of the glovebox ready to have a key cut
    Click image for larger version. 

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    That looks like a very common UK manufactured 1960's era locking petrol cap, it's not pieces d'origine Renault. Used by many manufacturers as an accessory (I've got one with the EnFo (English Ford) mark, and also one on my R4). It uses a single sided key that should be able to be picked by any competent locksmith, who should be able to cut a new key once the barrel is extracted. I'm surprised it has locked itself, as normally they can be used unlocked, as they require a key to lock them again.
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  16. #16
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    ah ha... better add to my wish list of an original 16TS petrol cap...non lockable!!
    still the mystery of the self locking cap remains..the deceased previous owner perhaps....not wanting the car to leave
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    All that one has to do is break the pins. Screwdriver in slot & quick whack with hammer. (Or, at least, that is the advice which a daughter gave me after working with juvenile offenders.)
    Shoji is closest to this.
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    Hi
    Years ago I had the problem of a locking cap on a car I purchased cheap. I took it to a locksmith, recommended, in a country town and he just cut a key for it by hand outside his shop, then took it in and cut a second one and I went off with a working locking cap and two keys for a very reasonable price. Took him about 10 minutes start to finish.
    So find an old fashioned locksmith. And use the fuel suction hose to get some petrol into the tank for the moment, by pumping it in that way.
    Jaahn

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    Default Remove the fuel sender unit.

    If you want to add a quantity of fuel it might be just as easy to remove the fuel gauge sender unit on top of the tank.

    You can then drive it comfortably to your choice of 'old fashioned' lock smith.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4cvg View Post
    All that one has to do is break the pins. Screwdriver in slot & quick whack with hammer. (Or, at least, that is the advice which a daughter gave me after working with juvenile offenders.)
    Shoji is closest to this.
    JOY...I used this method and it has worked well after only a minute or so...no damage apart from internal pins but if I file off the locking tab I can still use the cap until I locate an original type non locking one!!!! anyone?
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    With the price of petrol these days a locking cap is a good idea.
    Petrol was over $1.50/ltr here today, and that's for E10.
    I've got one of the spring types on the 12 at the moment so you only need the key to unlock and it locks when you push it on.
    I find it does gunk up making it hard to open. A spray of WD40 occasionally frees it up and it's good for another 6 - 12 months.

    An aftermarket cap shouldn't be too hard to find unless you really want a Pieces d' origine which might be a struggle.
    Or at least a good working one might be a struggle.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by REN TIN TIN View Post
    With the price of petrol these days a locking cap is a good idea.
    Petrol was over $1.50/ltr here today, and that's for E10.
    I've got one of the spring types on the 12 at the moment so you only need the key to unlock and it locks when you push it on.
    I find it does gunk up making it hard to open. A spray of WD40 occasionally frees it up and it's good for another 6 - 12 months.

    An aftermarket cap shouldn't be too hard to find unless you really want a Pieces d' origine which might be a struggle.
    Or at least a good working one might be a struggle.
    The one I have is the original after market cap ordered when car was new (its listed on sales receipt)
    Now I have it off I have cut off the locking tab so now I can use it without fear of locking..
    Im happy to use this cap but still hope to locate an original cap at some point....
    cheers
    PS she is in getting her RWC with Gary ar Renno workshop so she's in good hands as Gary did his apprenticeship on 16's....fingers crossed she is in good mechanical shape
    Rev. Dogboy


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  23. #23
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    Glad you got the cap off to resolve the problem.


    Most of the simple key locks can be manipulated with a bent up heavy paper clip to apply pressure on the internal segments, but they do clag up with use and a spray of either graphite or liquid WD 40 can free that up and then wiggle the paper clip to spring the internals while you gently apply opening pressure to the cap.

    Moot point now of course, sorry I didn't see your original post. I do have lots of old keys that might fit or come close enough, left over from another life...

    Ken
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  24. #24
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    left over from another life...
    Confiscated from those who use them as tools of trade ?
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  25. #25
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    the little 16 has some rust...one bit where two bung holes are that should have been pulled out on pre delivery
    the 2nd hole is on a chassis rail near wishbone...$600 for rectification
    mechanically it is a strong engine but with oil leaks at seal on dipstick tube..gary says seal n/a but he will pull it up and seal
    there seems to be another leak which could be rocker cover or head gasket? to be investigated further but hoping head doesn't have to come off as Gary was talking $2k to do head...plus.. l/h steering eye,rack end bush,rotors undersize,rack end bush,rear muffler,l/h rear brake pipe rusty,brake fluid needs changing...steering wheel is loose.. plus the other stuff...heater valve,,faded headlights

    this little 16 will be back in the health she should enjoy
    Rev. Dogboy


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