renault 16TS rev counter not working
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Thread: renault 16TS rev counter not working

  1. #1
    1000+ Posts dogboy's Avatar
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    Default renault 16TS rev counter not working

    thought id better start a new thread
    my rev counter is not working..tried a gogle search and nothing
    sany ide what I should check
    mind you...I cant even find the fuse box...hope it's not inside the locked glovebox...not sure how to get into that

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    Rev. Dogboy


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    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    If it's the same as the contemporary Peugeots. The tacho needs three connections:

    1. Ground

    2. Ign switched +12v

    3 A connection to the points/ coil -ve.
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    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Positive and ground are on the nuts at the back. The coil connection is on quick connect spade on the back, at least on the pug ones.
    Departed the Aussie Frogs Community 14 September 2018.

    The moderator/leader should not operate for the sole benefit of himself and his kind but for the benefit of the people at large and of the AF Fraternity and its patterns, as becomes what he perceives as fitting into place, into his sense of natural justice.
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    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogboy View Post
    I cant even find the fuse box...hope it's not inside the locked glovebox...not sure how to get into that
    Its been a long time since I have anything really to do with an R16, Looking in the Haynes book I have here it looks like the fuse box is on the inner left guard behind the air cleaner
    Regards Col

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    COL
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    As far a getting the tacho working, have a look on the coil there should be one wire on the positive side which comes from the ignition switch. There should also be two wires on the negative side of the coil which one will go to the distributor and the other goes to the tacho. Make sure these wires are connected.

    Next I would remove the tacho and make sure that everything is connected.

    If all is ok in both places you may have a faulty tacho.

    Is there any other electrical apparatus in the car that is not working?
    Regards Col

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    Give the connectors to the printed circuit on the instrument cluster a wriggle as well, perhaps there may be a grubby connection.
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    1000+ Posts REN TIN TIN's Avatar
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    It is unusual for the tacho itself to be faulty, more likely dodgy connections as mentioned by others.
    The entire instrument cluster is on the one circuit so if the rest of the instrument cluster gauges are working then it won't be a fuse.
    Dirty contacts on the coil or a broken wire on the coil would be my first pick.
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    As far a getting the tacho working, have a look on the coil there should be one wire on the positive side which comes from the ignition switch. There should also be two wires on the negative side of the coil which one will go to the distributor and the other goes to the tacho. Make sure these wires are connected.

    Next I would remove the tacho and make sure that everything is connected.

    If all is ok in both places you may have a faulty tacho.

    Is there any other electrical apparatus in the car that is not working?
    yes...the dash lights are not working
    is there a fan for the heater cause I cant see one??
    how does the tacho come out...no Haynes and don't want to damage anything...I slipped my hand behind and felt the earth and the positive...got a little tingle...haven't felt the spade connector yet
    all connections are on coil
    Rev. Dogboy


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    bob
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    G'day,

    Quote Originally Posted by dogboy View Post
    .........how does the tacho come out...no Haynes and don't want to damage anything........
    if you check the stickys.....

    Download links for manuals, tech data etc

    at post #38 you'll find a link for R16 tech stuff.....

    cheers,
    Bob

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    Quote Originally Posted by dogboy View Post
    I slipped my hand behind and felt the earth and the positive...got a little tingle...
    Are you sure it isn't an Aston Martin Lagonda? We're talking about 12 volts here....

    Have you checked the fuses in the location as mentioned by Col earlier?
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    And there is a fan. Isn't it the third lever in the temperature up versus down quadrant? Not wildly effective but does help with those stylish demisting vents.
    JohnW

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    If my hands are sweaty I have had a small tingle from 12 volts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    And there is a fan. Isn't it the third lever in the temperature up versus down quadrant? Not wildly effective but does help with those stylish demisting vents.
    Correct. The one with the (ISO?) baby blowing symbol.
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    If none of the instruments are working and you're getting a 'tingle' when you're groping about on the dash then it's probably an earthing issue. The instrument lights are are on a different circuit from the dash power and if they're not working then this again points to an earthing issue.
    Try running a patch lead from an earth on the car to an earth point on the instruments.
    If you've got Jaeger instruments it will have the flexible plastic circuit board and you'll have to find a earth point on there.
    VDO will have point to point wiring so will be easier.
    It's been a while since I had my 16's (I've had a TL & a TS) but if memory serves, getting at the instruments on the R16 is pretty easy, just lift the top of the dash off.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon View Post
    Are you sure it isn't an Aston Martin Lagonda? We're talking about 12 volts here....

    Have you checked the fuses in the location as mentioned by Col earlier?
    I looked and still could not see it...maybe the aircleaner needs to be removed first..
    when previous owner bought car it arrived at his place,unlocked with ignition key and a receipt of sale and that was it
    I love a cars history so want to try and track down the previous owners family...someone in the Renault car club surely knows the car
    Is it listed on the register??
    Rev. Dogboy


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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    Its been a long time since I have anything really to do with an R16, Looking in the Haynes book I have here it looks like the fuse box is on the inner left guard behind the air cleaner
    On my 76 model the 2 fuses are on inner right front guard and should have a cover -just follow the wires. As I recall my 1970 model was the same.
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    Ahh... those "ceramic" fuses. Sometimes a visual inspection isn't complete until you've removed the the fuse and had a butcher's at the conical metal sections on either end of the fuse. They sometime wear in situ and give continuity issues.
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    Yes ceramic fuses do give quite a bit of trouble. The ends become corroded. On my R15 I always left the cover off the fuse box so as I could wobble the fuses going along when the wipers stopped during a storm. Luckily they are with in easy hand reach near the right knee.

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    bob
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    G'day,

    Quote Originally Posted by Sunroof View Post
    Yes ceramic fuses do give quite a bit of trouble. The ends become corroded. On my R15 I always left the cover off the fuse box so as I could wobble the fuses going along when the wipers stopped during a storm. Luckily they are with in easy hand reach near the right knee.
    My answer to those nasty little devices is here....
    Renault 20ts & Fuego & maybe others pointy fuse fix



    cheers,
    Bob

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    The ceramic ones were bad but even worse were the cheapie fuses with the plastic core made to look like they're ceramic.
    These had a proclivity to melt or deform and made the dodgy contacts even worse.
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    1000+ Posts dogboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tresbon2 View Post
    On my 76 model the 2 fuses are on inner right front guard and should have a cover -just follow the wires. As I recall my 1970 model was the same.
    ah ha...here I was looking for a big fusebox and it's tiny...2 fuses...wow
    guess I better stop looking for the heater blower fan as doesn't seem to be one...how is demisting in these cars?
    I now have the feeling my heater knob mover but the heater didn't...def need a heater
    anyone here taken their 16 to the renno workshop in frankston?
    I'm around Red Hill (mornington peninsula) so looking for a local who knows these cars
    Rev. Dogboy


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    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogboy View Post
    ah ha...here I was looking for a big fusebox and it's tiny...2 fuses...wow
    guess I better stop looking for the heater blower fan as doesn't seem to be one...how is demisting in these cars?
    I now have the feeling my heater knob mover but the heater didn't...def need a heater
    anyone here taken their 16 to the renno workshop in frankston?
    I'm around Red Hill (mornington peninsula) so looking for a local who knows these cars
    From memory the actual heater fan is under the scuttle panel below the windscreen.

    The heater itself is also a long twin tube affair, that could be blocked. You will also find this under the scuttle panel.
    Its easy to remove and dismantle so that it can be flushed out with a garden hose.
    Regards Col

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  23. #23
    1000+ Posts REN TIN TIN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    From memory the actual heater fan is under the scuttle panel below the windscreen.

    The heater itself is also a long twin tube affair, that could be blocked. You will also find this under the scuttle panel.
    Its easy to remove and dismantle so that it can be flushed out with a garden hose.
    Yes the heater core and the fan are both under the scuttle.
    The fan motor is at the drivers side end near the vent flap.
    When removing the scuttle you have to disconnect the cable to the vent flap .

    The motor could be dodgy as they get wet and slowly seize up.
    Even when the were new the demisting performance was pretty ordinary.
    Being designed as a LHD most of the demisting air was blown onto the center or the passenger side of our RHD versions.
    "I cannot help but notice that there is no problem between us that cannot be solved by your departure."

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    1000+ Posts dogboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by REN TIN TIN View Post
    Yes the heater core and the fan are both under the scuttle.
    The fan motor is at the drivers side end near the vent flap.
    When removing the scuttle you have to disconnect the cable to the vent flap .

    The motor could be dodgy as they get wet and slowly seize up.
    Even when the were new the demisting performance was pretty ordinary.
    Being designed as a LHD most of the demisting air was blown onto the center or the passenger side of our RHD versions.
    well I had a fellow frogger visit and show me the finer ponts of the 16
    I now know how the fan works and it actually works...I just hadn't moved the lever across enough
    also I got the dash lights working by fiddling with the rheostat control
    so just the tacho left to fix electrical wise
    thanks for everyones assistance
    JohnW likes this.
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    1969 DS21 Pallas BVH with leather
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    Citroen 1970 DS21 Cabrio replica
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    1975 VW Kombi poptop
    1987 2CV
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