Tie rod ends
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Thread: Tie rod ends

  1. #1
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    Default Tie rod ends

    Whilst doing a trial fit of my new second hand wheels I have discovered that the tie rod ends interfere. I'm using the ones from Mecaparts, part MP2218
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    Does anyone know of a smaller option? They don't interfere by much.

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    COL
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    Do the wheels have the right offset?
    Regards Col

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    Try getting a thin sheet steel spacer made up by a steel fabricator.

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    The wheels came off an R10 but we are unsure if the uprights had been modified in any way.

    Spacers are illegal in NSW on street cars.

    I'm going to dog out one of the old styles tie rods to check the size. It may also be possible to use rose joints on the ends.

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    What I didn't make clear was where the interference was, it's on the inside of the rim, not the edge. The wheels overhang the tie rod ends.

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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Even on factory tie rods you could find some interference. Just a little scraping, but it was there. I am talking from experience with my R10, but I assume your car is the same. You will just have to grind the tie rod end casting a bit.

    Given the clearance is minute at best I would suggest you inspect the wheel as well, because any out of round will cause interference there.
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    This is what I was going to do, just not sure if it will cause it to get knocked back by the engineer.

    I'm also looking at getting the wheels narrowed by an inch, yet to get a quote or even confirmation it's possible on cast wheels.

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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    I’d doubt it would be possible on cast wheels. Are these the ones from WA 14x6?
    KB


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    They are the other ones from WA 15x6.5

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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    I’d doubt it would be possible on cast wheels. Are these the ones from WA 14x6?

    Apparently it is possible for a fee of $300 per wheel. All of a sudden my reasonably priced wheels are getting expensive if I go down this path. All in I'd be at $1450 not including the two tyres for the narrowed rims. Is it worth it? Maybe, the wheels from Image at $2500 and I've already out laid $882.

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    Quote Originally Posted by c.lees View Post
    Apparently it is possible for a fee of $300 per wheel. All of a sudden my reasonably priced wheels are getting expensive if I go down this path. All in I'd be at $1450 not including the two tyres for the narrowed rims. Is it worth it? Maybe, the wheels from Image at $2500 and I've already out laid $882.
    Is it worth it? Depends on your goals, particularly any competition plans. Speed costs money so how fast do you want to go?

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    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    By how much is the interference? Will 3mm shorter tie rods work?

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    Oh, so these are not the factory wheels?

    Shortening the tie rods won't solve the problem. They touch on the side so to speak. On my car it was just a fraction of a millimetre, but my car had factory wheels and tie rods.
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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    Oh, so these are not the factory wheels?

    Shortening the tie rods won't solve the problem. They touch on the side so to speak. On my car it was just a fraction of a millimetre, but my car had factory wheels and tie rods.
    Hi Schlitz. He said that it was touching on the inside and not on the edge. See a few posts back, so shortening it should work.

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    How does shortening the tie rods help when they need to be a certain length for wheel alignment purposes? I'll take a picture of the point of interference tonight if I don't get home too late.
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.lees View Post
    How does shortening the tie rods help when they need to be a certain length for wheel alignment purposes? I'll take a picture of the point of interference tonight if I don't get home too late.
    Sorry, I meant steering arm.

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    How does one shorten the steering arms? Cutting and welding would require xraying I imagine

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    Yes it will take welding to do. If you can't do it in your state then sorry. I don't know how they will know it because it will be so hidden away. I guess it depends if you want to take the chance then.

    If you take the whole stub axle and put it in the vice you will notice at the back of the steering arm it is welded around the stub axle. In the center is a center hole from a lathe. Look halfway up the steering arm and you will see a little nipple protruding from there. On this nipple is another center hole. That is how they had it in the lathe to turn the back part off to press fit into the stub. You grind that welding off and press the arm out. Before this you have mark it with an engraver or what have you so that it can go back in the same position. Then you put it in the lathe using those two center holes and turn the base of the arm a little deeper, as much as you need that is practical. When you press it back it goes deeper and the arm gets shorter. This will then make the steering a little more like a quick rack but it is actually negligible. Weld it again and paint it. I can not think that any inspector will notice that the arm is 3mm shorter or that you have re-welded it because it is so hidden in any case that it is hard to see and I think that your welding is good enough to never break. There isn't much the welding does because the press fit takes most of the torque.

    It has been done before.

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    Great write up Frans. Doesn't seem too involved. I'll have to see if I have a dog for the lathe at work, don't have one at home unfortunately.

    Just took another look, 3mm would do it. With a different wheel on it actually clears but about 2mm but an extra 3 would be good as the tide rod gets very close to the edge of the wheel on full lock (already reduced due to caliper clearance)

    Any idea how much force is required to pop the steering arm out?

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    Last edited by c.lees; 13th March 2018 at 10:46 PM.

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    I got confused when you said shortening the tie rod.

    Shortening the arm would give clearance as I said.
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    If you are talking only 3mm this should be able to be taken up in the rim if I am understanding the issue. I know (because I have gone this) that a place like Ajax in Moorabbin can set up each steel rim and press the centre inwards so as to increase the offset. They can achieve up to 10mm, so 3-5mm should be easily achieved.
    Just another way out?

  22. #22
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    A lot of force is still required but the one big problem is to remove all the old welding before you start.

    R8Dream, what you're saying sounds interesting. If I understand it right the metal is bent so that the actual rim/tyre sits out further because of the new offset? I take it this will be for metal or steel rims only. Where does it actually bend?

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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    What about that spray metal process. Could you add 3mm to the hub adapter?

    Also, is a spacer a spacer if it is bolted to the hub? - just a thought.
    KB


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    A spacer isn't an option as it would need to be 25mm.

    I've spoken to the machinist at work about the method that Frans outlined and I'm going to go down that path first. We have a hydraulic press to help getting it apart and then back together.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frans View Post
    A lot of force is still required but the one big problem is to remove all the old welding before you start.

    R8Dream, what you're saying sounds interesting. If I understand it right the metal is bent so that the actual rim/tyre sits out further because of the new offset? I take it this will be for metal or steel rims only. Where does it actually bend?

    Regards, Frans.
    That's right Frans, only steel rims. I think its a 20T press set up so they can pick up extra offset required. The bending is in the centre part of the wheel.
    Angelo

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