R8/R10 Master Cylinder change.
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Thread: R8/R10 Master Cylinder change.

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
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    Default R8/R10 Master Cylinder change.

    Hi there fellow R8/R10 lovers.

    I'm putting this out there for your valued comments.


    Is there a more difficult job on a R8/R10 than the MASTER CYLINDER change??

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    And I haven't got a hoist!!!!!!!!!!!

    Cheers
    Phil

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Changing the control arm bushes, but yours is a close second!
    KB


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    Changing a tandem master cylinder with the front radiator hoses restricting access even more, still without a hoist.

    All character building stuff, just suck it up and get-r-done !

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    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    That's nothing Installing 2 master cylinders with a balance bar in a front radiator car (race car) without a hoist as well.
    Old enough to know better
    Young enough to do it anyway.

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    I don't want to rub it in guys..... Wait a minute, yes I do. Best thing in the tool box.
    R8/R10 Master Cylinder change.-dsc_4108.jpg
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    I wish !!

    Phil



    Quote Originally Posted by Paul T View Post
    I don't want to rub it in guys..... Wait a minute, yes I do. Best thing in the tool box.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Only the dedicated do these sort of things!
    Phil



    Quote Originally Posted by Frans View Post
    That's nothing Installing 2 master cylinders with a balance bar in a front radiator car (race car) without a hoist as well.

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    I think adjusting the pedal to master cylinder clearance is harder, particularly as an afterthought (that was me!) with things in place hydraulically. Don't forget to check this and adjust it while you have the MC out/freed up. Getting it right is worth the effort.

    I use a big socket, extension and breaker bar to get the big switch at the end undone - wish I'd learned that about three changes earlier! Easier and much safer with respect to fingers to be heaving from the front of the car instead of underneath.....

    Some time back, Alan Moore suggested changing the retaining bolts from 10 mm to Allan-head bolts, an excellent suggestion, which I wish I'd learned about four changes ago.

    If you had silicone fluid in mind, now's the time!

    What diameter have you decided upon?

    Do have fun!!

    (Oh, and I wish too!!!)
    JohnW

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    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by R8philSA View Post
    I wish !!

    Phil
    Ditto
    Regards Col

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    After 35 years of having an 8G restoration in limbo, having installed tandem cylinders in A110's in the meantime...
    Should be a doddle in the 8. It's up on the hoist after all.
    Source a tandem, line it up, make all new steel brake lines including rubber hose protection.
    Then realise the G runs a (single circuit ) vac brake booster in the boot...DOH!!
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  11. #11
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Not on the hoist Steve, that's the "I wish" set of comments! I keep looking at how I could fit one of those half height twin post ones in but there's a slight issue here with the combination of the second post clashing with where my wife's car sits.....

    We all just jack them up as high as realistic and safe I guess.
    JohnW

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    I think Steve was sharing his own experience...

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    You can always put one car on the hoist and park the other undernieth. Or get some of the gadgets you put under wheels and roll one car sideways. Bit of a pain getting cars in and out that way I guess. But the 8 or 4CV if they are not driven often might work.

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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    How about a pit? Or one of those garage lifts?

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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    How about a pit? Or one of those garage lifts?

    https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1kIsGQ...pg_640x640.jpg
    I think I've come to the conclusion that this is the only one that I can accommodate. Must look into it further, not least for the mechanical safety lock I'm sure it will have. Thanks.

    Phil, money permitting, as we age, these might be the go....
    JohnW

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    The only issue is working undernieth with all those up rights under the car and restricting access to the very spots your most likely to want to get to. I guess the engine weight would have to be at the front where the rams are. In the case of your rear engine cars you may have to reverse on.

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    The trick with some hoists with rear engines cars, especially Alpine GTA's is to fill the front boot with
    weighty objects. Tyres, oil containers, scones baked last week by the wife, etc.

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    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by R8philSA View Post
    Hi there fellow R8/R10 lovers.

    I'm putting this out there for your valued comments.


    Is there a more difficult job on a R8/R10 than the MASTER CYLINDER change??

    And I haven't got a hoist!!!!!!!!!!!

    Cheers
    Phil

    I ended up putting in my new MC in and out 3 times trying to figure out what was wrong any why it wasnít bleeding. All on my back with car raised on jacks about 500mm off the ground. Ended up getting it towed to my mechanic with all my knuckles skinned. he confirmed an issue with the new (mecaparts) MC.
    Got a new valve fitted and in again
    His work was all done on a hoist!!

    R8/R10 Master Cylinder change.-img_4861.jpg
    Last edited by R8 Dream; 12th January 2018 at 06:03 PM. Reason: added photo

  19. #19
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve K View Post
    The trick with some hoists with rear engines cars, especially Alpine GTA's is to fill the front boot with
    weighty objects. Tyres, oil containers, scones baked last week by the wife, etc.
    Damn, I should have kept all that biscuit shortening. Mind you, I don’t have a hoist either.
    I did wonder about the safety aspect of a two post hoist with an RER.
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    KB


  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    Damn, I should have kept all that biscuit shortening. Mind you, I don’t have a hoist either.
    I did wonder about the safety aspect of a two post hoist with an RER.
    I think two-post is OK, it is the support arms (four needed) and mounting that matters. My Citroen CX has 70% of its considerable weight over the front wheels and the rear fuel tank reportedly needs to be full to support it without it tilting forward on axle stands located as far forward as just behind the front wheel arches! For obvious reasons, I haven't tested this.

    I definitely covet my neighbour's hoist!!

    How's that master cylinder going Phil?
    JohnW

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  21. #21
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
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    Well after fighting the main brake fluid feed line off the Master Cylinder (1 1/2hours!!!) then those two little sucker of bolts and nuts!! I got the MC out. Couldn't for the life of me get it apart (seized in) so down to our friendly PBR at Holden Hill and they blew it out 300psi or thereabouts. Good news is the MC had a beautiful as new BRASS inner sleeve so new kit and it's already to put back again.
    Just got to get the actuating rod out and check the gap (0.020")
    Those guys at PBR are so helpful, even got me a brand new brake stop switch with a special adaptor for the thread. So brakes are now all done sitting in a box ready for installation at a later date.
    Cheers
    Phil
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  22. #22
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Good to hear. It's so good to deal with helpful professionals. I've had the same experience in the past with Power Brakes in Adelaide and others in Perth on resleeving MCs and getting new hoses made while I waited. Don't mess with anything but what you know is a new hose is my suggestion, and I've learned the hard way.... I've had short life problems with Argentinian ones cracking in less than two years too.

    Closely related given the audience of this thread, so not a hijack I hope, I just adjusted the (drum) brakes on the 4CV, since the pedal slack had gone perhaps 1/4 of the way down since I finished the spider wheel Dauphine conversion a bit over a year ago. Clearly the new liners had bedded in. So, jack it up, adjust brakes carefully.... The adjusters hardly moved before the shoes were rubbing lightly but the pedal has come right back up. I have a 22 mm MC but the larger diameter front cylinders and the system is super sensitiveto adjustment. I'm so pleased with the brakes on both the 4CV and the R8, at long last. It's all in the detail.

    Hope it all ends up much the same with yours Phil.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
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    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  23. #23
    Fellow Frogger! R8philSA's Avatar
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    Thanks John.
    Managed to get the MC back in today. Not sure if I'm happy with the piston actuating rod adjustment!
    The book says 0.020" play, it has heaps more and the pedal inside the car moves 1" before you feel the rod contacting the piston.
    Might take it out again and lengthen the rod.
    I left the setting on the rod as it was when I took it out but there are many things on 'BARNIE' that were not up to book standards!
    Cheers
    Phil

  24. #24
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    I was caught that way once, Phil. There are two different pushrod lengths for two different piston designs. I remember years ago having to make a spacer from a bolt to take up the slack when I bought a new master cylinder, as I didn't know and the Renault dealer in central Adelaide didn't seem to either! You'll have awful brakes unless you get the clearance down to a small number of mm at the pedal.

    You always inherit a mish-mash with modified cars, don't you!

    Cheers
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
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    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

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