Gearbox jack hire
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Thread: Gearbox jack hire

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! IThompson's Avatar
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    Default Gearbox jack hire

    Anyone know of a place in eastern Melbourne that may hire gearbox jacks.

    I would like to remove the gearbox on my R12 without the engine this time.
    Also do it safely.

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    If you are using your own trolley jack, not a hoist, there are adaptors that can put a transmission saddle on top. They are cheap enough to probably equal the cost of hiring a complete transmission unit.
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    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    As SS says, an $80 super cheap trolley and some scraps of heavy duty hardwood bolted up to make cradle.

    Will end up a similar price to hiring a transmission jack.
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    My advice also, use your own trolley jack with suitable wood block cradle, and if you haven't got a trolley jack, then purchase one, they are relatively cheap and every car owner should have access to one in their garage equipment. Essential for safe removal of wheels, just remember when using a hydraulic jack, to make sure that the elevated car has suitable wooden blocks to protect if the car moves or the jack fails (never had one fail, but you never know) I use old redgum housing stumps, cut up into short blocks as these stack easily and securely. I also have a couple of those screwjack supports when working under cars.
    And that also applies when working on a car up on a metal ramp.

    Nothing beats care and safety when working under cars.

    Ken
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    Fellow Frogger! IThompson's Avatar
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    Thanks,

    I'm very cautious when working under the car.
    Stands and wooden chocks all round.

    My brother in-law dropped a gearbox on his hand many years ago and severed a tendon.
    I don't want to do similar.

    I have a hydraulic jack and an engine crane.
    If I don't feel safe lowering the gear box I will remove engine and gearbox together again.

    Many years ago as a P plater I had a close shave with jacking up a car without chocks.
    I clipped the curb and punctured the tire wall of rear near side tire on dad's automatic volvo.
    I stopped the car put it in park
    I started to jack up one side of the car on the Volvo stick jack.
    Of course Park locks the output shaft of the gearbox but not the differential.
    On a slight slope the car started to move shortly after removing the wheel.
    I managed to stop the car moving and put the handbrake on.
    then found a chock for the front wheel.
    Whilst I wouldn't have got hurt in that scenario it could have been costly dropping down on the brake disk.
    It is good if you can learn those things from safe accidents. Or even better learn them from someone else.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenfuego View Post
    My advice also, use your own trolley jack with suitable wood block cradle, and if you haven't got a trolley jack, then purchase one, they are relatively cheap and every car owner should have access to one in their garage equipment. Essential for safe removal of wheels, just remember when using a hydraulic jack, to make sure that the elevated car has suitable wooden blocks to protect if the car moves or the jack fails (never had one fail, but you never know) I use old redgum housing stumps, cut up into short blocks as these stack easily and securely. I also have a couple of those screwjack supports when working under cars.
    And that also applies when working on a car up on a metal ramp.
    Nothing beats care and safety when working under cars.
    Ken
    Hi
    I have never had a transmission jack but have used a metal "dish" or a plywood piece bolted to the jack head quite successfully.
    I too have some old hardwood blocks I still use for stands and just for safety. I cut them different dimensions each way so they have a choice of three heights. and several 'pairs'. Looking a bit weather beaten now after living outside. Would give them away ! Also had pieces of wood of various thickness to use as necessary as packing or chocks etc.
    But I always push the wheel in under the car anyway when it comes off as insurance too. Nothing beats care and safety when working under cars. Too true
    Jaahn
    PS
    I purchased an aluminium full sized trolley jack some years back and threw my old faithful into the scrap. Best thing I bought. And those small trolley jacks are crap and unstable.
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  7. #7
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    To remove the R12 g'box I use ramps for the front wheels and the car's own jack to lower the g'box. It is very safe and the jack provides better control than a hydraulic jack (you turn the screw by hand, the g'box isn't that heavy).

    It is also easier to attach some sort of home made cradle to the scissor jack than a trolley.

    I usually place the jack at the back of the 'box (there is a flat section there) and two heavy duty sections of timber at the front to allow the 'box to slide on them when I pull the gearbox off the engine by dragging the jack backwards. Easy peasy.

    It is a bit more difficult to put the 'box back, because you have to line up input shaft and bolt holes at the same time by getting the height right and roll angle of the 'box, but not impossible. I have done it alone many times, so it works.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 5th March 2018 at 02:50 PM.
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    I am approaching it sightly differently. A strap wrapped around the bell housing and connected to an engine crane.
    And a trolly jack underneath.

    With an assistant (loving wife) i should be able to lower it down in a controlled way.

    The various extras have been disconnected but i will need to wait till next weekend to finish removal.

    Thanks everyone.

  9. #9
    COL
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    I have removed the gearbox on its own without any form of jack, that was in my younger days when i was a bit stronger. I also replaced the box without a jack.

    Nowadays I remove the whole drive train because there is not that much extra work involved. I find it is easier to spit the box from the motor on the floor where there is plenty of access than it is in the confines of the car, also the same for mating the gearbox to the motor.

    This is just my worth.
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    Regards Col

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    Last time i removed the engine and gearbox.
    I then installed extractors and a side draft webber with lynx manifold.
    The extractors were very difficult to get installed. So I'm predicting it will be difficult to get the engine out with them still in the engine bay. Hense gearbox only this time.

    Last time i had difficulty reconnecting the gearbox and engine. I'm not looking forward to attempting that whilst under the car.

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Your idea wth an engine hoist coming from above should provide better fine adjustment control, but I maintain that a scissor jack underneath is better because the operator doesn't have to rely on a second pair of hands to get the height just right. The only problem with the jack approach is that you don't have a flat and horizontal surface on the underside of the box to lift hence the g'box might roll a bit sideways. You can build a simple cradle to help with that (a piece of flat stock bent in a U shape and bolted to both sides of the box - there's plenty of threaded bosses you can use).

    All said, I found the R12 boxes go in very easily compared to other cars I had to deal with (this is once you have it lined up correctly).
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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    Ensure the hollow pins are fitted to the two lower extremities of engine or gearbox. I forget which. Alignment is then a snip using the securing bolts or smooth rods for getting all together. Easy one man job with car jack as mentioned earlier.
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  13. #13
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Yeah, once you get the input shaft lined up with the clutch.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    Yeah, once you get the input shaft lined up with the clutch.
    This is where the smooth rods come in. Already have two points lined up.

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    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    Yeah, once you get the input shaft lined up with the clutch.
    If you use a clutch plate alignment tool to make sure that the clutch plate is exactly central they usually slide in no problems, you must also make sure that you are sliding the input shaft in square as well or you will definitely have problems.
    Regards Col

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    Ian I have just PM you. Give me a call after hours.

    Regards
    Peter

  17. #17
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by driven View Post
    This is where the smooth rods come in. Already have two points lined up.

    The spigot shaft engages before you get the locating dowels to contact. Hence what I said above.

    Smooth rods? This gets more complicated than it needs to be.

    The locating dowels have a larger inside diameter than the bolts that go through the holes they reside in. Hence your rods have to be undersized, hence they won't guide the 'box as precisely as you would need. Mind you, the locating dowels are at the bottom of the 'box hence the box will hang off them, pointing down at the opposite end, so you still need one hand to support it.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 5th March 2018 at 02:55 PM.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  18. #18
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    I wish I was still in Melb, I'd love to come give you a hand with this.

    Well I mean hold your beer and pass it to you when you are ready kinda helping.
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    Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

    A friend from the Renault Car Club of Victoria got the gearbox out for me. I handed the spanners.

    This weekend I put it back again. I tried the rope around the bell housing and large trolly jack with loving wife aproach. I couldn't get the gearbox to go on. I'm not strong

    So i whipped out the engine and bolted the engine and gearbox together safely on the ground.

    Then i quickly popped the engine and gearbox together back into the car.

    Remaining jobs reconnect drive shafts and wheel hubs gear selector and a wheel alignment.

    The biggest pain is the customised exhaust that I collected off a parts car. It travels down backwards beside the engine leaving very little room to manoeuvre. The standard r12 exhaust goes forward down then back.

    Oh well hopefully soon it will be back on the road.
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    Quote Originally Posted by IThompson View Post
    Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

    A friend from the Renault Car Club of Victoria got the gearbox out for me. I handed the spanners.

    This weekend I put it back again. I tried the rope around the bell housing and large trolly jack with loving wife aproach. I couldn't get the gearbox to go on. I'm not strong

    So i whipped out the engine and bolted the engine and gearbox together safely on the ground.

    Then i quickly popped the engine and gearbox together back into the car.

    Remaining jobs reconnect drive shafts and wheel hubs gear selector and a wheel alignment.

    The biggest pain is the customised exhaust that I collected off a parts car. It travels down backwards beside the engine leaving very little room to manoeuvre. The standard r12 exhaust goes forward down then back.

    Oh well hopefully soon it will be back on the road.
    Wonderful, and that is what friends and car clubs are all about, help and encouragement when you need it! Hope you are soon on the road with the car.

    Ken

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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    I told you, the only trick with removing/replacing the g'box in car is that you need to get the roll angle right, not the pitch angle. You rope and crane can only control pitch angle, not roll. That is controlled by you being under the car and knowing how to feel it. Driven was right, some rods on those bottom holes could have helped you by giving you a reference to feel by hand, but you still have to know how much to roll the box, because even a tiny misalignment will stop it from coming home. It also helps if the engine is pitched backwards a bit more than its normal operating position. Once you remove the 'box, it does actually pitch the other way, so you need to push it up with a jack under the front of the sump (a tiny little push, nothing dangerous for the sump). But I guess you found this out now.

    Good luck with the the rest of it.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  22. #22
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    I found it difficult enough to get the gearbox on the engine. Near impossible for me from underneath. You need a lot of strength to control the gearbox in a confined space underneath the car.

    The wierd part is the gear selector is fouling on the exhaust which it didn't last time.

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