Renault R8 drive shaft tube.
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Thread: Renault R8 drive shaft tube.

  1. #1
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    Default Renault R8 drive shaft tube.

    Hi All,

    Anybody here that could help with a link to an article that describe the installation of an additional needle roller bearing on the drive shaft close to the U-joint? A "how to" article.

    There is supposed to be many A110s running this mod to assist in the stresses caused by the drive shafts.

    Thank you and regards. Frans.

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    Colin Rose did this with his Kermit 4CV. I am pretty sure that he wrote up the procedure & someone might have a copy. I thought I did but if so, it's ? . ? . ?

    cheers! Peter

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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Is that in the tube, or is it in some other part (like the bit that attaches to the gearbox)? I am not familiar with that part of the R8 anatomy.
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    All I know is the alignment needs to be perfect or you'll destroy the u joints or worse diff or diff bearings.

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    I think I have one in French if that helps.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunroof View Post
    I think I have one in French if that helps.
    Any thing will help at this stage. Thanks. Frans.

    Yes SZ that is the support needle bearing fitted close to the u-joint.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4cvg View Post
    Colin Rose did this with his Kermit 4CV. I am pretty sure that he wrote up the procedure & someone might have a copy. I thought I did but if so, it's ? . ? . ?

    cheers! Peter
    I thought so too, Peter. I then looked around and found a short article from Colin and have sent it to Frans. It's light on the detail Frans needs. One of the Adelaide 4CVs has the modification too, and I'm chasing to see whether there is a write up on it - I think I've seen one, maybe in an old Fourword.

    Someone like Dave Wheeler in UK might have experience too.

    Cheers
    JohnW

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    I have found it Frans with diagrams and photos. Including how it was set up in a lathe. Will scan it later tonight and email it to you as it is difficult to put it on here. Need your email address via private mail. There are three pages even in colour.
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  9. #9
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    PM sent.
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    Too big for Fourword Rob? I guess it is in French so ..... Worth a thought though.
    JohnW

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    Its about 3 and a half pages. I suppose I could attempt to translate it. I think the half page is only an offer to do the work for you by the guy that wrote it. Translation will be a bit difficult using google etc as the bell end where the trunions go is refered to as a trumpet. Logical in that case but often not so logical.

    Frans emails have been sent.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunroof View Post
    Its about 3 and a half pages. I suppose I could attempt to translate it. I think the half page is only an offer to do the work for you by the guy that wrote it. Translation will be a bit difficult using google etc as the bell end where the trunions go is refered to as a trumpet. Logical in that case but often not so logical.

    Frans emails have been sent.
    Might be better to put a one paragraph overview piece in Fourword with a photo, and a comment that the full article is available on request, in French!

    Thanks Rob. Frans will love it.
    JohnW

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    Thank you Sunroof. I got them and will study it as soon as I have completed the spindle.
    I need means of contacting Colin Stark and Dave and others that might have a 2nd gear synchro ring for me.
    Appreciate it. Frans.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frans View Post
    Thank you Sunroof. I got them and will study it as soon as I have completed the spindle.
    I need means of contacting Colin Stark and Dave and others that might have a 2nd gear synchro ring for me.
    Appreciate it. Frans.
    I'm sure we are all waiting for your photos Frans, and an English language write up! Best wishes with it. I gather there are two cars in Adelaide that have had this done - do you want contact details for the clever man who did it?

    Regards
    JohnW

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  15. #15
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    Hi,

    Our next race is next weekend, only 2 weeks in between. I am trying to make it for then. I have received all the detail of how to do it and some other comments as well. I will get them translated and see what the guys do in Europe. Some negatives as well from England because of the weakening of the housing and some hot work on the drive shaft that can change strength in the drive shafts. I will replace like for like now because it did last me 4 years and start on something after some points have been answered.

    I got the steel on Monday and couldn't or didn't want to pay the $500 dollars they asked to shape the spindle so I spent a day and a half in front of my lathe removing plenty steel. Shit job. That was complete last night and I gave it in this morning for the spline cutting. In the mean time I will make the gaskets so long and keep busy.

    See below just for interest sake.

    The start.



    Complete.



    Regards, Frans.
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    Sheesh! 500 bucks for removing that much material. They probably budgeted the same time it took you to do it. What is that? 10 hours at 50 bucks an hour?!

    Nice. What material is it?

    I feel your pain. With a small lathe, removing lots of material is messy and time consuming. At least you have carbide insert tools. The splined section seems really short, but I guess the main effort is in the cross section of the material.
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    Hi Fran
    Thanks for the pics. Lots of work to do. Good luck.
    Do you have the steel heatreated to develop max strength and toughness. It is an unusual treatment for HS B600 steel which is usually used for cutting tools where edge hardness is important. Perhaps that is not the most desirable for you.
    Jaahn
    PS shame about the pile of shaving you had to remove off that bar of expensive steel.

  18. #18
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
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    SZ and Jaahn. The metal is Bohler K600. It is a very tough metal and used for various items in different hardnesses. This piece will be hardened to 44 Rockwell after the machining has been done. It will be tough but not brittle I've been told.
    Frans.

  19. #19
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Ha-ha! Swedish steel! Should be good.

    I was wondering if you were going to harden it, but it looks like you need a pretty tricked out furnace, not the realm of the home mechanic.

    Looking at your picture I thought the chips looked like a cromoly or something pretty tough like that.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frans View Post
    SZ and Jaahn. The metal is Bohler K600. It is a very tough metal and used for various items in different hardnesses. This piece will be hardened to 44 Rockwell after the machining has been done. It will be tough but not brittle I've been told.
    Frans.
    Hi Franz
    I guess this is for discussion between you and your heat treatment guru but I might have thought that you could go higher than 44 RC for a higher basic strength with no loss of toughness. That is one strong tough mother steel grade. It can be taken to 50-55+ for a working hardness by the graphs so a bit more towards 50 seems quite OK to a friend of mine who is experienced in metallurgy. The alloy content of that grade will allow plenty of strength without becoming brittle.

    Seems to me from the twisting previously you could do with more basic strength. Or a throttle stop ? Your choice !
    Good luck Jaahn

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    I'm regularly amazed by the depth of knowledge on this forum. Jaahn, WOW! And so interesting.

    Throttle stop? Frans? Very funny too!
    JohnW

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  22. #22
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    Jaahn, thanks for that info, I'll definitely discuss this issue first and see what he reckons.

    John and Jaahn, the use of those two words could result in washing your mouths with soap!! or you can go to your rooms.

    Regards, Frans
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frans View Post
    John and Jaahn, the use of those two words could result in washing your mouths with soap!! or you can go to your rooms.

    Regards, Frans
    May I recommend Solvol?
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