R8/10 Rubber Door Seals undoing
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Thread: R8/10 Rubber Door Seals undoing

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    Default R8/10 Rubber Door Seals undoing

    The door rubber seals don't seem to be staying on. This is the second time I have glued them on using Selleys Contact Adhesive each time cleaning off all the previous glue from the surfaces ensuring they are absolutely clean. I am following the instructions to the tee, leaving the surfaces for 20-30mins before pressing together, but the rubber seal eventually comes apart from the door after a few weeks. It happens on the curved parts of the door back and front.
    Any suggestions for any better adhesive or technique?
    AS

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  2. #2
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    Try Loctite 406, or your fave cyanoacrylate adhesive. With 406, it is very low viscosity, and only the tiniest drop is needed before it is pressed into place - when it becomes permanently adhered, so you only get one chance. Again, only the tiniest amount is needed, as you won't get a chance to wipe it away if it runs or drips onto a surface.
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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Also, it is important to wipe new rubbers down to remove release agent. Did you do that before the initial attempts?
    KB


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    Also, be careful not to stretch them as you glue round the corner. I've had adequate results with Selleys, with a few bits of re-gluing I'd agree. You might want to consider whether or not you expect to take them off in the future, or whether you'll accept/pay for new ones then. I like the idea of the 406, just applied along the corner - I don't believe you need both sides glued.

    I didn't know about wiping them down...
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    'Grease and Wax' remover from Super-cheap Auto at $14 a bottle works wonders as a pre-cleaner for anything to do with coatings on rubber or metal etc. Takes off all the finger prints, release agents, waxes, oils etc before you use your glues and paints.

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    Fellow Frogger! R8 Dream's Avatar
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    I cleaned both surfaces with acetone carefully, and then 'prepsol' over again (which I know is a grease and wax remover).
    I do note that its the rubber separating from the glue, not the door side.
    I will give the Loctite 406 Simon suggests a go and will heed his warning about being sparingly with it.
    I will give it a good clean before I start of course (after etting the old glue off).
    Will give it a go next weekend and let you all know how I went.
    Thanks everyone

    R8/10 Rubber Door Seals undoing-img_5366.jpg

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    The high end solvents ( acetone, thinners etc ) can be unkind to rubber and plastic, leaching out plasticisers etc. Prepsol is not as aggressive and is safe ( note rubber separating from glue )

    Selleys have a couple of grades of rubber cement, one normal and the other industrial strength. The latter sticks like shit to a blanket in most applications.

    The cyanoacrylate route is also good and less of a PITA than rubber contact adhesive as one can do it in stages. NOt all "Superglues" are the same and some disagree with plastics, so be careful to take advice about exactly what grade works in this application.

    My 404 was done with a cyanoacrylate glue and nothing's fallen off in two years, but I forget the exact grade/type

    Best Wishes

    Andrew

    Quote Originally Posted by R8 Dream View Post
    I cleaned both surfaces with acetone carefully, and then 'prepsol' over again (which I know is a grease and wax remover).
    I do note that its the rubber separating from the glue, not the door side.
    I will give the Loctite 406 Simon suggests a go and will heed his warning about being sparingly with it.
    I will give it a good clean before I start of course (after etting the old glue off).
    Will give it a go next weekend and let you all know how I went.
    Thanks everyone

    Click image for larger version. 

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    1000+ Posts geckoeng's Avatar
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    Angelo,
    Why not use the proper stuff for the job.

    Clean the surface with Turpentine, and wipe with a clean rag. Use 3M Weather Strip Adhesive, and do not leave too long to join seal to door. Do about 300mm at a time, starting at the top.

    Work carefully.

    Ray
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    Quote Originally Posted by geckoeng View Post
    Angelo,
    Why not use the proper stuff for the job.

    Clean the surface with Turpentine, and wipe with a clean rag. Use 3M Weather Strip Adhesive, and do not leave too long to join seal to door. Do about 300mm at a time, starting at the top.

    Work carefully.

    Ray
    Thanks Ray, I figure you have done it recently with success, so will follow that lead.
    thanks
    Angelo

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    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    https://www.bunnings.com.au/sika-1l-...esive_p1210057

    You can't go wrong with the correct Sika product.

    I've thinned it with a little acrylic thinners to make it flow off the brush.

    Better to use a contact, because the rubbers seals can still be removed at a later date.
    Mutual Respect is Contagious


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    Where did you buy the rubber? Is it slightly too big requiring the door to be closed hard, even with the adjusters right out? I need new rubbers but have always found the local and some overseas ones just a smidgen too big.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunroof View Post
    Where did you buy the rubber? Is it slightly too big requiring the door to be closed hard, even with the adjusters right out? I need new rubbers but have always found the local and some overseas ones just a smidgen too big.
    Mecaparts. They are a good match to originals when compared I thought.

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    I go along with the 3M tape idea too, I used it on the mighty Fregate door rubbers and they haven't budged. On my Floride I used Black Sika, they similarly haven't budged, Sika can be very messy in the wrong hands though..

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    Quote Originally Posted by R8 Dream View Post
    Mecaparts. They are a good match to originals when compared I thought.
    Thanks R8 Dream.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 59 Floride View Post
    I go along with the 3M tape idea too, I used it on the mighty Fregate door rubbers and they haven't budged. On my Floride I used Black Sika, they similarly haven't budged, Sika can be very messy in the wrong hands though..
    I think Ray means the 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive (08011) which comes from a tube, not tape (double sided?)?

    R8/10 Rubber Door Seals undoing-3m08011.png

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    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Contact adhesive worked well at time of original manufacture.

    If it's not working now, it's a reason to find out why rather than a reason to use an alternative method of attaching.

    In my opinion anyway.
    Mutual Respect is Contagious


  18. #18
    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    Contact adhesive worked well at time of original manufacture.

    If it's not working now, it's a reason to find out why rather than a reason to use an alternative method of attaching.

    In my opinion anyway.
    Maybe the original rubber was natural and the replacement is synthetic and contact adhesive does not stick to well to it.

    I could be wrong just my worth
    Regards Col

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    Wonderful short thread. Learned lots ( was probably paying attention 'cos am about to do it !)

    The knowledge and experience in the group is amazing

    Andrew

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunroof View Post
    Where did you buy the rubber? Is it slightly too big requiring the door to be closed hard, even with the adjusters right out? I need new rubbers but have always found the local and some overseas ones just a smidgen too big.
    My new door rubbers (4CV) came from NeoRetro in France. I have Oz-purchased rubbers on the R8, and they were glued OK with contact adhesive years ago, came off for painting and went back with contact adhesive.

    The 4CV rubbers went on with a rubber glue (auto painter's material so I didn't see the brand) and I've had to reglue some sections with Contact Adhesive (Selleys), so far quite successfully.

    With the 4CV, the doors are a hard shut, but it is the new rubber buffer triangles, not the seals I think.

    Clearly there are several different situations here and more than one type of rubber door seal. There are different objectives too, permanent vs removable.

    Please let us know what you actually end up doing that works for you!

    Cheers
    JohnW

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    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    Maybe the original rubber was natural and the replacement is synthetic and contact adhesive does not stick to well to it.

    I could be wrong just my worth
    The why don't rubber seals on modern cars fall off ? Presumably there are made of "synthetic rubber"

    Perhaps what you are saying is that the correct adhesive and careful surface preparation is required.
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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Not to argue at all, but to provide another bit of information. I've found this Dynagrip sticks like the proverbial to a blanket.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R8/10 Rubber Door Seals undoing-dynagrip-adhesive-1.jpg   R8/10 Rubber Door Seals undoing-dynagrip-adhesive-2.jpg  
    JohnW

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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    The why don't rubber seals on modern cars fall off ? Presumably there are made of "synthetic rubber"

    Perhaps what you are saying is that the correct adhesive and careful surface preparation is required.
    New car seals don't fall off because they are held on with clips not glue.

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  24. #24
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Beat me to it Paul!
    JohnW and Paul T like this.
    KB


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