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  1. #201
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    Still in limbo as I have grown use to seeing the yellow and beginning to think it looks more in period than the original yuk grey. The chrome strip on top is being a pain as the original is badly sun damaged and I may have to settle for a rubber strip with a chrome section. I know a new one can be purchased in France but the freight would be an issue. Wish I had your doors as both of mine had been victims of long gouges and lots of bog. panel man spent more than a day on just the driver's door. A centremeter of bog-possibly a cake icer did the work on the door.

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  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by geedee View Post
    Still in limbo as I have grown use to seeing the yellow and beginning to think it looks more in period than the original yuk grey. The chrome strip on top is being a pain as the original is badly sun damaged and I may have to settle for a rubber strip with a chrome section. I know a new one can be purchased in France but the freight would be an issue. Wish I had your doors as both of mine had been victims of long gouges and lots of bog. panel man spent more than a day on just the driver's door. A centremeter of bog-possibly a cake icer did the work on the door.


    Hi Geedee

    I think that grey colour is horrible and does no justice to the rear of our girls. LOL
    My chrome strip is that plastic sh#% and is also faded.
    Who sells them in France?
    Been thinking of stainless. There are some profiles out there.
    What about your sill strips. Ok?
    Mine are there but I did a little work on them to try and make them look better.
    I was lucky with these doors but I paid for them...
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  3. #203
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    Univ 15,17 have them,I think you have to join the club to be able to purchase them. Listed for $55 but that should be Euros I imagine. They also have sill 'chopsticks' for 70 Euros. Just imagine the freight on these as they are a metre and a half in length. Stainless would be best but getting that curved profile would not be easy I assume, if you find one that fits let me know. My sill strips are ok except for the front of the passenger side one which has been drilled and secured with a bolt into the bog. Panel man is just about to go on holidays so another month's delay. Hope to be able to drive it to French Car Day in Brisbane in July hope,hope,wish,wish..........

  4. #204
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    Have a look at the running board strip on a pre-1968 (vertical headlamp) Volkswagen Beetle (or Type 3 sill strip). These have a similar profile, and on the Aussie build cars are stainless or aluminium on the full imports. They may have sufficient vertical flex to fit the curve of the rear bumper if secured with appropriate clips.

    One the thing to remember when painting. There are tiny pieces of black plastic pinchweld located at the side of the tail light indicator which fit over where the rear quarter panel is spotted to the rear body panel. Don't lose them as the car then just looks odd and unfinished (even if painted black to hide the body colour).
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  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by geedee View Post
    Univ 15,17 have them,I think you have to join the club to be able to purchase them. Listed for $55 but that should be Euros I imagine. They also have sill 'chopsticks' for 70 Euros. Just imagine the freight on these as they are a metre and a half in length. Stainless would be best but getting that curved profile would not be easy I assume, if you find one that fits let me know. My sill strips are ok except for the front of the passenger side one which has been drilled and secured with a bolt into the bog. Panel man is just about to go on holidays so another month's delay. Hope to be able to drive it to French Car Day in Brisbane in July hope,hope,wish,wish..........


    Another link for parts. That's great.
    Lets hope your painter finishes on time Geedee. Send some photos of your girl later
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon View Post
    Have a look at the running board strip on a pre-1968 (vertical headlamp) Volkswagen Beetle (or Type 3 sill strip). These have a similar profile, and on the Aussie build cars are stainless or aluminium on the full imports. They may have sufficient vertical flex to fit the curve of the rear bumper if secured with appropriate clips.

    One the thing to remember when painting. There are tiny pieces of black plastic pinchweld located at the side of the tail light indicator which fit over where the rear quarter panel is spotted to the rear body panel. Don't lose them as the car then just looks odd and unfinished (even if painted black to hide the body colour).

    Thanks Simon. good information. I know about that pinch weld and managed to find a replica one. Mine was missing. I remembered my r17 I had in Hobart years ago had that pinch weld.
    You would pay a bit for that VW trim I expect.
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  7. #207
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    There are also lots of stick-on chromed plastic strips available that are 30 to 40 mm wide. The old style stick-on bump strips popular in the 60's/70's are also a possibility. Fairlane boot garnishes, Commodore wagon chrome strips,some Subaru Forester hatches also have a chrome insert, even some Craptivers have a chrome garnish across the hatch, these are some possibilities especially if you have time to frequent the wreckers yards. Perhaps a vynol wrap on the original strip may work.

  8. #208
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    Brake fluid? Workshop manual says "Conform to SAE 70 R3 Standard" Is this the same as ??
    Castrol site:

    • US FMVSS 116 DOT 3 and DOT 4.
    • SAE J1703.
    • ISO 4925.
    • Australian Standard 1960 Grade 3.
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shoji View Post
    • US FMVSS 116 DOT 3 and DOT 4.
    • SAE J1703.
    • ISO 4925.
    • Australian Standard 1960 Grade 3.
    If the bottle of new fluid you have has these specs on, it will be fine.
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  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon View Post
    If the bottle of new fluid you have has these specs on, it will be fine.
    Thanks Simon. I did some more study as I knew nothing about the different fluids and I ended up using this one to do a complete flush. Rear drums were skimmed on Friday and I wanted to finish the job properly. Brakes are now fully renewed with new front rotors, honed slave cylinders, new pads and rear shoes. Nice and hard now.
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    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  11. #211
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    Master cylinder has decided it didn't like a fluid change. Goes to the floor and I discovered it's leaking inside the car. Can these be honed and new seals put in? Or easier to buy a fresh one?
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shoji View Post
    Master cylinder has decided it didn't like a fluid change. Goes to the floor and I discovered it's leaking inside the car. Can these be honed and new seals put in? Or easier to buy a fresh one?
    Unusual for it to leak into the car, with the booster between the master and the interior. It must be a big leak - possibly from bleeding the brakes without rebuilding the cylinder.

    They can be resleeved with stainless steel, which will generally last the life of the car without corrosion. Power Brakes here in Adelaide provide a good mail order service, and I would guess that there will also be somewhere in WA who can do the same. Although you will want to make sure the pistons are in good nick and not corroded. Perhaps get the brake place to do a full rebuild with the new sleeve
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  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon View Post
    Unusual for it to leak into the car, with the booster between the master and the interior. It must be a big leak - possibly from bleeding the brakes without rebuilding the cylinder.

    They can be resleeved with stainless steel, which will generally last the life of the car without corrosion. Power Brakes here in Adelaide provide a good mail order service, and I would guess that there will also be somewhere in WA who can do the same. Although you will want to make sure the pistons are in good nick and not corroded. Perhaps get the brake place to do a full rebuild with the new sleeve


    Thanks Simon. I think I might go with a rebuild. Your Brake Parts Specialist | Perth Brake Parts
    or https://www.renault12shop.com/7701348206 or
    https://piecesrenaultvintage66.com/i...roller=product
    Shame it had to happen before Easter.
    I was looking forward to taking a crew to our local Dwellingup Pumpkin Festival in the orange 17.
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  14. #214
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    New engine extractors have arrived from Mecaparts. Couple of hp in these. Will be going stainless 50mm system right through. I noticed the other day that the rear muffler is actually buggered. Rusted through on the bottom side.
    Will have to look at having the new exhaust done before the new motor is ready.
    Another R17 owner planning to upgrade-ren-12-17-extractors.jpgAnother R17 owner planning to upgrade-ren-12-17-extractors-2.jpg
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  15. #215
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    Nice carpentry!

    Bugger, re the master cylinder. I'd be inclined to go with a resleeve and rebuild of what you have, then there is NO chance of ending up with the wrong piston pushrod length requirements or non-fitting fittings. FWIW, I'd go for a full set of new hoses at the same time unless yours are of known age and not too old! They should be able to make the hoses up brand new with Oz Standard materials, standard rubber ones or braided (my preference) - your engine builder will agree with that!

    Cheers
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  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Nice carpentry!

    Bugger, re the master cylinder. I'd be inclined to go with a resleeve and rebuild of what you have, then there is NO chance of ending up with the wrong piston pushrod length requirements or non-fitting fittings. FWIW, I'd go for a full set of new hoses at the same time unless yours are of known age and not too old! They should be able to make the hoses up brand new with Oz Standard materials, standard rubber ones or braided (my preference) - your engine builder will agree with that!

    Cheers


    Hi JohnW. Are you in the country or abroad?
    I'm inclined to agree with you about the master cylinder. To many different types out there. Taking to Perth Brake Parts as recommended by "the engine builder". Yes, good idea re the hoses. Didn't think of those. Is it best just to remove the old and take them to Enzed for replication?
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  17. #217
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    Perth Brakes should be able to make new ones while you wait. They should have all the end fittings.

    So take the old ones and they'll fix it up, in parallel with the master cylinder. Lots of copper washers too...
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    JohnW

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  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Perth Brakes should be able to make new ones while you wait. They should have all the end fittings.

    So take the old ones and they'll fix it up, in parallel with the master cylinder. Lots of copper washers too...


    They don't do the master cylinder while you wait John? I expect it would be a while for that kind of work.
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Nice carpentry!



    Cheers
    Indeed. I installed quite a few Shoji screens on a job at the Gold Coast a few years back, they are a very nice door



  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by 59 Floride View Post
    Indeed. I installed quite a few Shoji screens on a job at the Gold Coast a few years back, they are a very nice door




    Probably my oppositions shoji. I never sell to QLD. They steal my online photos and I have complained. They use screws in their joints instead of mortice and tenon.
    Where as Sydney, Melb, Tas and SA no problem. Two Japanese colleagues/carpenters in Melbourne keep me busy.
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  21. #221
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    Taken out the master cylinder and booster today. No sign of leakage through back of the cylinder or the front of the booster.
    But there was something leaking inside the car from the booster. Only a few drops though and it is brake fluid because a little was on my floor mat and it has stripped a little paint off the back of the foot brake arm.
    When I took these photos I tilted the booster on it's front and fluid came out. That's not right, is it?
    Another R17 owner planning to upgrade-img_20180401_155958023.jpgAnother R17 owner planning to upgrade-img_20180401_155853864.jpgAnother R17 owner planning to upgrade-img_20180401_155848242.jpgAnother R17 owner planning to upgrade-img_20180401_155817344.jpgAnother R17 owner planning to upgrade-img_20180401_155750064.jpgAnother R17 owner planning to upgrade-img_20180401_155737796.jpg
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shoji View Post
    Taken out the master cylinder and booster today. No sign of leakage through back of the cylinder or the front of the booster.
    But there was something leaking inside the car from the booster. Only a few drops though and it is brake fluid because a little was on my floor mat and it has stripped a little paint off the back of the foot brake arm.
    When I took these photos I tilted the booster on it's front and fluid came out. That's not right, is it?
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    Definitely not right!! Looks like some refurbing required there John!
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  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shoji View Post
    New engine extractors have arrived from Mecaparts. Couple of hp in these. Will be going stainless 50mm system right through. I noticed the other day that the rear muffler is actually buggered. Rusted through on the bottom side.
    Will have to look at having the new exhaust done before the new motor is ready.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ceramic coated?

    PS ...nice Shoji screen Shoji...
    JohnW likes this.
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  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by nauli View Post
    Ceramic coated?

    PS ...nice Shoji screen Shoji...
    There's nothing wrong with a little subliminal advertising I reckon..

  25. #225
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    Either your booster is dead or the one way valve in the vacuum takeoff is absent. Check which before you waste your money rebuilding a perfectly good booster.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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