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Thread: Another R17 owner planning to upgrade

  1. #101
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    The colour of the rear bumper should be an off white to greyish tinge. There is a Mitsubishi colour that is very close to original. I might have written it down somewhere once. Can I still find it? Not sure.

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  2. #102
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    I have a spare bumper with the colourfor reference if anyone needs

    Sent from my Moto G Play using aussiefrogs mobile app
    Cheers. John
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  3. #103
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    Sh%#y colour
    The grainy finish is hard to replicate though. And don't sand it and degrease with paint prep. I touched up a small spot on the bar before painting orange.
    Cheers. John
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  4. #104
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    Wanted: Fuel Level Sender for R17.
    Another R17 owner planning to upgrade-s-l1600.jpg
    Cheers. John
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.”

  5. #105
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    Will the r12 sender do the job if I change the float arm?
    Cheers. John
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  6. #106
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    From your question, I assume there is something wrong with the resistor part.

    That can be fixed, perhaps not easily, but it can be.

    Before that however, I would open up the box and check what's wrong. It may be that the wiper is dirty, the track (or resistor) interrupted and so on.

    This suggestion comes form the experience that these devices rarely fail in a catastrophic way. More often than not they are just dirty and need a bit of a clean.

    If you don't feel like doing anything too involved, you can just try to spray some deoxit or WD40 in the box and see what happens. I assume you have a meter or something to measure resistance. It is one of the least complicated devices in your car, can't fail in that many ways and most are reversible.

    The answer to your question depends on two questions. One, if the range of movement is the same if you use the R12 sender, and two, if the resistor has the same value. I don't know the answer to either.
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  7. #107
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    Don't ask how it happened but it was crushed. Tried to bend it back into shape.
    Seems to operate but incorrectly.
    Full tank at the moment so I'll have to wait again before having another look.
    There's one in Germany but the guy wants an arm and a leg. I need mine.
    Cheers. John
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  8. #108
    1000+ Posts REN TIN TIN's Avatar
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    Be aware that IF the R12 sender is comparable, there were 2 types (at least) used in the R12's sold in Australia. Maybe more overseas where they were sold for a longer time. Both senders appear to have the same resistance but one type is for the clockwise gauge (i.e. empty on the left and move clockwise to full) and one for the anticlockwise gauge. The later Jaeger TS 12's with the fuel gauge at the bottom of the dial had the anticlockwise movement.
    If you use the wrong type the gauge will read the reverse, i.e. full when empty and empty when full.


    The part numbers for the R12 sender in my parts book are 7700517829 or 7701349259.
    If someone has a R17 parts book they might be able to compare numbers.

    Cheers
    RTT
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  9. #109
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    RenTinTin. Thanks for the advice on the guages. The 17's are clockwise from a 6 oclock position empty. Empty currently is 3/4 full on the guage thus I ran out yesterday morning at home.
    I have a 15 parts book that came with the car. I'll have a look and compare
    Cheers. John
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.”

  10. #110
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    If I remember when I did my R17 that the R12 float arm is different.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by REN TIN TIN View Post
    Be aware that IF the R12 sender is comparable, there were 2 types (at least) used in the R12's sold in Australia. Maybe more overseas where they were sold for a longer time. Both senders appear to have the same resistance but one type is for the clockwise gauge (i.e. empty on the left and move clockwise to full) and one for the anticlockwise gauge. The later Jaeger TS 12's with the fuel gauge at the bottom of the dial had the anticlockwise movement.
    If you use the wrong type the gauge will read the reverse, i.e. full when empty and empty when full.


    The part numbers for the R12 sender in my parts book are 7700517829 or 7701349259.
    If someone has a R17 parts book they might be able to compare numbers.

    Cheers
    RTT
    The part numbers in my R17 parts book are 77 00 534 017/ 77 00 559 466 / 77 00 561 029
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  12. #112
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    I seemed to have repaired it. Now working as should.
    COL and JohnW like this.
    Cheers. John
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.”

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shoji View Post
    I seemed to have repaired it. Now working as should.
    What did you actually do?
    JohnW

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  14. #114
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    I noticed weeks back that the fuel gauge was not working. Tested the gauge by shorting it out, all ok.
    Must the be the sender. Removed it to find it was crushed and out of shape but not broken. So I attempted to rebuild it.
    Seemed ok for a bit until it ran out of fuel, luckily at home. Gauge was not reading correctly as it was still at 3/4.
    After some more advice from here (AF) I had another go. Pulled it apart and just cleaned it. Redressed the solder blob with some wet n dry. reassembled and now it reads correctly and close to actual level.
    What happened to it to be crushed in the tank is anyone's guess.
    Cheers. John
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.”

  15. #115
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    Crushed what, the float or the resistor housing?
    "I cannot help but notice that there is no problem between us that cannot be solved by your departure."

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by REN TIN TIN View Post
    Crushed what, the float or the resistor housing?
    The resistor housing. lucky the plastic didn't break...I don't know how it happened??? gremlins in the tank
    Cheers. John
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.”

  17. #117
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    Is the R17 supposed to have a vented fuel cap?
    Maybe vacuum.
    "I cannot help but notice that there is no problem between us that cannot be solved by your departure."

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by REN TIN TIN View Post
    Is the R17 supposed to have a vented fuel cap?
    Maybe vacuum.
    That's something I wouldn't know. I have been playing with other caps.
    It had one with a broken seal.
    Ditched that for a smaller diameter one until I ordered a better one.
    That one worked until the barrel chopped out.
    Now it has another classy one which I think has no venting.
    Not Good?
    Cheers. John
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.”

  19. #119
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    No, not good. It will require a vented fuel cap.

    The only Australian spec 15/17s that require a non-vented cap are the 1975 onwards models. With the flap over the fuel filler cap in the quarter panel. Where they have the evaporative emissions control equipment with carbon canister, expansion tank, and fuel tank under the boot floor.
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  20. #120
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    Thanks Simon. I think I caused the problem
    Cheers. John
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.”

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