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  1. #101
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    The colour of the rear bumper should be an off white to greyish tinge. There is a Mitsubishi colour that is very close to original. I might have written it down somewhere once. Can I still find it? Not sure.

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  2. #102
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    I have a spare bumper with the colourfor reference if anyone needs

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    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  3. #103
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    Sh%#y colour
    The grainy finish is hard to replicate though. And don't sand it and degrease with paint prep. I touched up a small spot on the bar before painting orange.
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  4. #104
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    Wanted: Fuel Level Sender for R17.
    Another R17 owner planning to upgrade-s-l1600.jpg
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  5. #105
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    Will the r12 sender do the job if I change the float arm?
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

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    From your question, I assume there is something wrong with the resistor part.

    That can be fixed, perhaps not easily, but it can be.

    Before that however, I would open up the box and check what's wrong. It may be that the wiper is dirty, the track (or resistor) interrupted and so on.

    This suggestion comes form the experience that these devices rarely fail in a catastrophic way. More often than not they are just dirty and need a bit of a clean.

    If you don't feel like doing anything too involved, you can just try to spray some deoxit or WD40 in the box and see what happens. I assume you have a meter or something to measure resistance. It is one of the least complicated devices in your car, can't fail in that many ways and most are reversible.

    The answer to your question depends on two questions. One, if the range of movement is the same if you use the R12 sender, and two, if the resistor has the same value. I don't know the answer to either.
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  7. #107
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    Don't ask how it happened but it was crushed. Tried to bend it back into shape.
    Seems to operate but incorrectly.
    Full tank at the moment so I'll have to wait again before having another look.
    There's one in Germany but the guy wants an arm and a leg. I need mine.
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  8. #108
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    Be aware that IF the R12 sender is comparable, there were 2 types (at least) used in the R12's sold in Australia. Maybe more overseas where they were sold for a longer time. Both senders appear to have the same resistance but one type is for the clockwise gauge (i.e. empty on the left and move clockwise to full) and one for the anticlockwise gauge. The later Jaeger TS 12's with the fuel gauge at the bottom of the dial had the anticlockwise movement.
    If you use the wrong type the gauge will read the reverse, i.e. full when empty and empty when full.


    The part numbers for the R12 sender in my parts book are 7700517829 or 7701349259.
    If someone has a R17 parts book they might be able to compare numbers.

    Cheers
    RTT
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  9. #109
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    RenTinTin. Thanks for the advice on the guages. The 17's are clockwise from a 6 oclock position empty. Empty currently is 3/4 full on the guage thus I ran out yesterday morning at home.
    I have a 15 parts book that came with the car. I'll have a look and compare
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  10. #110
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    If I remember when I did my R17 that the R12 float arm is different.

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    Quote Originally Posted by REN TIN TIN View Post
    Be aware that IF the R12 sender is comparable, there were 2 types (at least) used in the R12's sold in Australia. Maybe more overseas where they were sold for a longer time. Both senders appear to have the same resistance but one type is for the clockwise gauge (i.e. empty on the left and move clockwise to full) and one for the anticlockwise gauge. The later Jaeger TS 12's with the fuel gauge at the bottom of the dial had the anticlockwise movement.
    If you use the wrong type the gauge will read the reverse, i.e. full when empty and empty when full.


    The part numbers for the R12 sender in my parts book are 7700517829 or 7701349259.
    If someone has a R17 parts book they might be able to compare numbers.

    Cheers
    RTT
    The part numbers in my R17 parts book are 77 00 534 017/ 77 00 559 466 / 77 00 561 029
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  12. #112
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    I seemed to have repaired it. Now working as should.
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    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shoji View Post
    I seemed to have repaired it. Now working as should.
    What did you actually do?
    JohnW

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  14. #114
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    I noticed weeks back that the fuel gauge was not working. Tested the gauge by shorting it out, all ok.
    Must the be the sender. Removed it to find it was crushed and out of shape but not broken. So I attempted to rebuild it.
    Seemed ok for a bit until it ran out of fuel, luckily at home. Gauge was not reading correctly as it was still at 3/4.
    After some more advice from here (AF) I had another go. Pulled it apart and just cleaned it. Redressed the solder blob with some wet n dry. reassembled and now it reads correctly and close to actual level.
    What happened to it to be crushed in the tank is anyone's guess.
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  15. #115
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    Crushed what, the float or the resistor housing?
    "I cannot help but notice that there is no problem between us that cannot be solved by your departure."

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by REN TIN TIN View Post
    Crushed what, the float or the resistor housing?
    The resistor housing. lucky the plastic didn't break...I don't know how it happened??? gremlins in the tank
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  17. #117
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    Is the R17 supposed to have a vented fuel cap?
    Maybe vacuum.
    "I cannot help but notice that there is no problem between us that cannot be solved by your departure."

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by REN TIN TIN View Post
    Is the R17 supposed to have a vented fuel cap?
    Maybe vacuum.
    That's something I wouldn't know. I have been playing with other caps.
    It had one with a broken seal.
    Ditched that for a smaller diameter one until I ordered a better one.
    That one worked until the barrel chopped out.
    Now it has another classy one which I think has no venting.
    Not Good?
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  19. #119
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    No, not good. It will require a vented fuel cap.

    The only Australian spec 15/17s that require a non-vented cap are the 1975 onwards models. With the flap over the fuel filler cap in the quarter panel. Where they have the evaporative emissions control equipment with carbon canister, expansion tank, and fuel tank under the boot floor.
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  20. #120
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    Thanks Simon. I think I caused the problem
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  21. #121
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    Default Planning the Thermo Fan install

    The renault 12 shop has these for sale.
    https://www.renault12shop.com/701001...600,7700564467
    you can see from the location for the switch, it is at the base near the exit for cooled water.
    I just refurbished the old Aisin thermo fan that was on a radiator that came with the car. The radiator refurbished, also went in the car as it was the largest between the two.
    I would have to have my radiator guy fit a thread in this spot.
    It has a flat spot just like the parts pic on the ren12 shop.
    Purchase madeAnother R17 owner planning to upgrade-thermo-fan-switch.jpg
    Any comments about the setup would be appreciated
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  22. #122
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    Maybe they were for the Yankee R12's.
    The radiator for the 1250, 1.2 & 1.4 had the outlet on the RH side.
    If memory serves, my R17 also had the outlet on the RH side but with an engine driven fan.
    The fan switch should be near the bottom hose, whatever side it's on.
    "I cannot help but notice that there is no problem between us that cannot be solved by your departure."

  23. #123
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    on the diagram it does say for an 1173. which engine is that one, out of interest?
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shoji View Post
    The renault 12 shop has these for sale.
    https://www.renault12shop.com/701001...600,7700564467
    you can see from the location for the switch, it is at the base near the exit for cooled water.
    I just refurbished the old Aisin thermo fan that was on a radiator that came with the car. The radiator refurbished, also went in the car as it was the largest between the two.
    I would have to have my radiator guy fit a thread in this spot.
    It has a flat spot just like the parts pic on the ren12 shop.
    Purchase madeClick image for larger version. 

Name:	Thermo fan switch.jpg 
Views:	43 
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ID:	102011
    Any comments about the setup would be appreciated
    When I put the R17 motor in my R12 all I did was use a temperature switch from an R16 radiator along with the threaded adaptor (77 00 526 835). It is soldered down near the outlet of the radiator which is on the left side of the engine bay.
    bowie likes this.
    Regards Col

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  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    When I put the R17 motor in my R12 all I did was use a temperature switch from an R16 radiator along with the threaded adaptor (77 00 526 835). It is soldered down near the outlet of the radiator which is on the left side of the engine bay.
    Just a note of caution - no need to overtighten the switch. I've just replaced the one in my Citroen CX (I know, it's a disease) and I used Teflon tape and just nipped it up against its new (aluminium) sealing washer. There is no need to heave! The threaded boss is just soldered to the tank, after all.

    Interestingly, the CX has that exact same switch up high in the crossflow radiator side tank, just below the inlet hose, so it switches when the hot water comes in, long before it can be much cooled. I see the R17/12 setup being discussed has the switch at the bottom of the tank, i.e. after the water has been cooled a fair bit. Quite different logic. I'd say the CX struggles to cool at times so they activate the switch, but the Renault system is more robust relative to engine size and heat generation. So the Citroen switches the fan earlier. I'd add the Citroen CX has two fans, and runs them first in series at low speed (6V per fan), switched by a low temperature switch that sits in the air stream behind the radiator and then the switch in the coolant tank operates a different set of relays and runs the fans in parallel at high speed (12V per fan) if and when the coolant reaches a higher temperature (in the 90s). That double fan system certainly was used well into the 1990s with the Xantia. It's sophisticated but quite complex relative to a single fan/single switch temperature control system, that is for sure!

    I'm a bit intrigued by R12 electric fan discussions. After many years of pondering (we had two of them) I couldn't find a way of fitting a fan between the radiator and condenser (we had AC in our second Virage) other than in front, where the grill should be. So I never did it.....

    Cheers
    JohnW

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