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  1. #51
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    Yes I know I had great intensions but forgot all about photos. I'll try and remember tomorrow. But I don't think any of my 17's have 395 boxes.

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  2. #52
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    Why is everyone chasing a fifth gear ratio? This is one gear ratio I little use when enjoying my self.
    5th gear is for driving to Queensland. Haven't seen a 17 on this trip for 30 years
    Better to chase a lower 1st gear ratio to get moving!
    352 had a better low first, I can't recall now. Someone will tell me I am wrong
    Then get lower profile tyres to improve the acceleration again on these old clunkers. That will raise some eyebrows again

  3. #53
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    The 365 five-speed is perfect, the (relatively) wide gap between second and third in the four-speed 352 is nicely filled. The 395 is a good economy 'box, like you say, is suited for long trips,
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    Yes and there have been some long drives been done already with this 17. I think the drives in WA warrants a fifth.
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    Cheers. John
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    Here is a dodgy photo from the 17TS parts book (P.R.1002).

    Looks like the linkage setup used on aus spec 17TS/G was also used on 17's fitted with a 395 box in other markets.

    https://imgur.com/a/vEWh6




    Sorry I don't have an R18 parts book which would show the setup you have in some more detail.
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  6. #56
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    I would be checking the gear ratios and also the diff ratios before going to all the trouble of changing transaxles because the Renault 17 four speed boxes had a 3.55:1 diff and the five speeds had a 3.77:1 diff so I don't think there is much difference in top gear ratios.

    I think you will find that you can have either good acceleration or a lazy cruising speed but not both, if you want both you will have to one of those modified six speed boxes which you will need to sell a kidney to able to afford.
    Regards Col

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  7. #57
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    The speeds in gears for the various models are listed on this page:

    The 15/17 Register - Model List
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  8. #58
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    My linkages are the same as those shown on the parts book diagram.

  9. #59
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    Thanks Jensen, Sunroof, Simon, Col & Driven for all above.
    The picture now confirms what was only thoughts of how it works. I was wrong
    I'm sure the 5 was added for good reason.
    My four speed is tired, noisey & leaking (puddle at home) so it has to come out and Schlitzaugen was good enough to sell me this 395 and new 1cm short shafts.


    • By the looks of it I would like a complete TS gearshift to the silencers from a parts car. Wishful? Yes but the car is worth it IMHO


    I will be needing/making:


    • brackets for mounts
    • 365 gear stick/selector
    • clutch
    • other linkages

    Another R17 owner planning to upgrade-17g-gear-mech-parts.jpg
    I'll post the picture of the 352 parts later for reference and comparison.
    Back to work
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Another R17 owner planning to upgrade-17g-gear-mech-parts.jpg  
    Cheers. John
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  10. #60
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    Manual Gearbox Type 352
    No. of Speeds 4
    Diff Ratio 3.55:1 (9x32)
    Ratio & Speed in gear @ 1,000 rpm.
    Manual Gearbox Type 395
    No. of Speeds 5
    Diff Ratio 3.77:1 (9x34)
    Ratio & Speed in gear @ 1,000 rpm.
    Gearbox Type 365
    No. of Speeds 5
    Diff Ratio 3.778:1 (9 x 34)
    Ratio & Speed in gear @ 1,000 rpm.
    1st 3.61 8.2 km/h 1st 3.62 7.9 km/h 1st 3.455 8.32 km/h
    2nd 2.26 13.1 km/h 2nd 2.34 12.3 km/h 2nd 2.235 12.86 km/h
    3rd 1.48 20 km/h 3rd 1.61 17.8 km/h 3rd 1.609 17.87 km/h
    4th 1.03 28.7km/h 4th 1.22 23.6 km/h 4th 1.214 23.67 km/h
    5th 0.94 30.7 km/h 5th 0.935 30.73 km/h
    Reverse 3.08 9.3 km/h Reverse 3.08 9.3 km/h Reverse 3.083 9.32 km/h
    Cheers. John
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  11. #61
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    I don't think you need to change the gear stick. The R12 one is fine (not sure even my 17G has the bent stick).

    I think you can also reuse the linkage from the stick to the 'box control from your car. It may need shortened or something, but this is your opportunity to adjust it to the right length to fit the R17 stick (so you don't hit the dash when you go for 1st, 3rd or 5th).

    Pretty straightforward.

    Install everything you've got in the car, make sure everything lines up in its service position, and select first from the 'box control linkage, then bring in the linkage from the stick and (in the car) see how far away the stick is from the dash. That'll tell you if you need to modify the linkage and how.

    From faint memory you also got from me the original R18 linkage that goes there, so you can test that as well.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 21st September 2017 at 05:49 PM.
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  12. #62
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    So really, one just needs to cut a 3rd and 4th cog down a bit and we cheap skaps will be peachy.

    wait that's not cheap.

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  13. #63
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    As you are using the 395 box, the gear shift and linkages from an R18 would be useful as well.
    Regards Col

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  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    As you are using the 395 box, the gear shift and linkages from an R18 would be useful as well.
    Yes you mentioned before :-)
    They would be rare Col. I wouldn't know where to look
    Cheers. John
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  15. #65
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    I really don't understand you. You have all the parts, including all the linkages off the R18 I took the 'box off (except for the last one that goes to the gearstick and the gearstick itself, which I explained above how can be replaced) what else do you need?
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

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  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    You have all the parts, including all the linkages off the R18 I took the 'box off (except for the last one that goes to the gearstick and the gearstick itself, which I explained above how can be replaced) what else do you need?
    Correct. Not much. But until today, I didn't know what they all look like and the alignment. Thanks to Ray and Jensen for the diagrams. The link is offset to the right side from the gearstick compared to the current set up on the 352. The 395 won't align up with the existing gearstick link. I've been under the car measuring, checking against the 395 linkages.
    And yes the R18 linkage supplied will need cutting shorter and a link/clamp as per diagram for adjustment.
    The PLAN from here is to find spare parts that I want to butcher to make it all fit.
    I won't butcher the existing four speed setup.
    Cheers. John
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  17. #67
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    Another R17 owner planning to upgrade-img_20170921_200318383.jpgAnother R17 owner planning to upgrade-box.jpg
    Cheers. John
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  18. #68
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    Another option is to get some thick wall 8mm NB tube/pipe and fabricate your own linkage.

    On my R12 I have cut out the rubber blocks and associated steel work and replaced it with a piece of 10mm All-thread and a couple of lock nuts. This helps to make the gear change very precise and adjustable
    Regards Col

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  19. #69
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    Doesn't the gearstick vibrate, Col?

    Shoji, you can use the method Col suggested, but instead of replacing the rubber buffer portion, cut the tube, thread internally and use a section of rod to give you more adjustment than you'll ever need.

    As for the gearstick, I am not sure you are right. From faint memory, the side projecting finger at the bottom of the gear stick is on the same side of the stick on both 17 and 12. I am saying this fairly confidently, because reverse is in the same position, so the skid plate lock must be on the same side, hence the finger is on the opposite side. The only caveat here is that the 'box I sold you is out of an 18, and I don't know the arrangement on those.

    You could have asked and I would have shown you all the diagrams in the factory manual I have.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

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  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    Doesn't the gearstick vibrate, Col?
    The gear stick does not seem vibrate anymore than it did before, I was surprised at this as I was expecting some vibration.

    Shoji, you can use the method Col suggested, but instead of replacing the rubber buffer portion, cut the tube, thread internally and use a section of rod to give you more adjustment than you'll ever need.
    I threaded the cut off bits of tubing with a 10mm tap

    You could have asked and I would have shown you all the diagrams in the factory manual I have.
    Its like everything the questions only seem to arise when you come to do the job
    Shoji likes this.
    Regards Col

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  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    'box I sold you is out of an 18, and I don't know the arrangement on those.

    You could have asked and I would have shown you all the diagrams in the factory manual I have.
    I could be wrong But when measuring up the R18 linkages it is offset to one side is greater
    Cheers. John
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  22. #72
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    Well I'm no mechanic but I'm learning from you all about the unknown.
    So please be patient. Small and large projects need planning with careful R&D
    Thank you
    Would anyone have the r18 diagram. This may shed some light
    Last edited by Shoji; 24th September 2017 at 05:24 PM.
    Cheers. John
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  23. #73
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    Shoji sorry I haven't been in touch, but I have taken photos of my gear linkage on the R17 to a 365 box. If you PM me your email address I will send them if you still need them.

  24. #74
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    No problem Sunroof. PM sent
    Cheers. John
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  25. #75
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    Back when I had the 395 and 365 side by side to compare, one difference I noticed was that the side control link on the 365 was tied to the chassis rail, whereas the 395 is tied to the back of the box (or the other way around, can't remember).

    That might make it look like the linkage is offset, but it isn't. The controls inside the box are the same, the entry point is in the same place.

    The effect achieved is that the link tied to the 395 box is more precise because it takes out the relative motion between the box (and engine) and the chassis. The result is that if engine/box mounts fail or are on the way out, gear selection is still possible ( reverse might suffer), albeit the stick position might change (tilts to the side). With the link tied to the chassis, if the engine/box assembly tilts too far, you can't get the gears anymore.

    Another difference is that the connecting rod is longer on the R18 (395) probably because the engine/box is further away or they may have put the stick further back, to get rid of the bend in it and bring it closer to your hand.

    That's it from what I remember.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 5th October 2017 at 02:04 PM.
    Shoji likes this.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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