Suspension Set Up R-12
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Thread: Suspension Set Up R-12

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada

    Default Suspension Set Up R-12

    Does anyone have any experience setting up the front end of R12s, without the use of Renault special tools (pointer rods and scale plate)? I am wondering if any modern laser suspension & alignment tools will work on older cars like R12, and how to set up camber/caster and toe-in without the special tools in the R12 MR books. As far as I can tell, camber and caster are both adjusted with the same single suspension rod link that is connected to the frame at one end and to the top suspension arm at the other end and is adjustable with the jam nuts at the frame end. Since the rod is at roughly 45" in horizontal plane, I would think that is has the effect of adjusting both caster and camber at the same time. The toe- in seems to be adjusted only by raising or lowering the rack & pinion assembly using the adjustable bolts and shims. Is that correct?


    Reading the MR and books again after 40 years, and remembering how I used to do this when I had all the factory special tools, it seems to me that the correct method actually compressed the front springs a predetermined amount before adjusting the rods.

    Can this be done with the car sitting on ramps or lift, using modern laser alignment equipment, and should the proper adjustment of the rods be made so as to get roughly ZERO degrees caster and camber?

    How about toe-in?

    Anyone had any experience with this?

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    loneliness capital of the world


    Why would modern equipment not work? It relies on measuring geometric parameters independently of how you adjust things, same parameters for all cars.

    Camber is not adjustable.

    You can adjust caster as you correctly mentioned but given the upper wishbone is fairly rigidly hinged on a direction parallel to the lower wishbone hinge I would say the impact of caster adjustment on camber would be negligible.

    Raising or lowering the rack is an adjustment needed to cure/prevent bump steering. You need the special shims to do it anyway, and I am not sure where you'd get those (not that they're difficult to make, but you need accurately calibrated shim stock).

    Toe-in/out is adjusted with the rack end eyelets you will find under the rack bellows.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 8th June 2017 at 12:05 PM.

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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