Reno 20 Brakes
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 13 of 13
Like Tree2Likes
  • 1 Post By Gats
  • 1 Post By Simon

Thread: Reno 20 Brakes

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Kapunda
    Posts
    334

    Default Reno 20 Brakes

    My first post here.Just got a Reno 20 to keep my Cits company!! First problem,the rear brakes are sticking which makes the wheels are very hard to turn plus I cannot remove the drums to see what is going on, I could pull them off but I think that might do a lot of damage.Please help
    Woody

    Advertisement

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    261

    Default

    G'day Brian

    Can't offer you any great technical knowledge other than I can loan you a Haynes R20 Workshop Manual.

    I've got an R30 with discs all round.

    I did have an R19 with the same problem and it turned out the lining had parted from the brake shoe.

    I tend to take the approach with unknown problems by careful disassembly until the issue becomes apparent.

    You are probably aware that you would likely get any replacement parts you might need from Power Brakes at Gilles Plains.

    So where did you find this rare beast?

    I'm at Edwardstown if you want borrow the book.

    Regards

    Philip

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Kapunda
    Posts
    334

    Default

    Thanks Philip.I will await the Manual I ordered on ebay as I live up in the sticks.I found this one at Angle Vale, in a shed for 20Y .Do you happen to know where the starter inhibitor switch is located, I am unable to get the starter to operate.
    Woody

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    261

    Default

    Hi Brian

    Chapter 7 Section 11.4 of the Haynes book states the following:

    "If the starter fails to function at any time, it is possible that the starter inhibitor switch is at fault but first check that (a) the selector control lever adjustment is correct, and (b) the transmission wiring harness plugs and socket connections are secure.Check the starter circuit wiring for continuity to the switch plug. The inhibitor switch is situated beneath the transmission governor/computer unit and within the hydraulic section of the unit. The sump plate would therefore have to be removed to gain access to the switch and this is therefore best entrusted to your Renault dealer."

    Hope this helps.

    Regards

  5. #5
    Simon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    5,733

    Default

    For the brakes, I'm thinking if it has stood for 20 years, the linings are quite rusted to the drums, or someone pressed the pedal when the wheel cylinder were partially seized and they never released......... Time for a rubber or hide covered mallet to come out and try and shift the drums.

    For the starting, if the motor isn't seized (note they also run a rubber timing belt - early square tooth or later round tooth- that could be time expired or perished) the inhibitor switch is incorporated into a multi-function switch on the trans. I'm guessing if you bridge the terminals 5 and 6 (see the attached pic) it may spark the starter into life. *NOTE* Bridging the terminals means it could start in gear, make double, triple, quadruple sure the car is in park or fully secured so it wont move if it does spark into life!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Reno 20 Brakes-dsc08963.jpg  
    1963 Renault R4 Van
    1964 Renault R4
    1967 Volkswagen 1300 Deluxe
    1969 Renault 8 Gordini 1300
    2005 Renaultsport Clio 182 Cup

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    1,803

    Default

    Hi Woody
    I had an R20 a long time ago for a lot of miles(kms). Great car at the time. Did the family runs, taught the kids to drive, towed the car trailer, comfortable, fast on the highway Best all round family car we have had.
    However the starter did play up a bit over the years and I had a long bit of wood to give it a hit from the top to jar the contacts into submission until I rebuilt the solonoid. This happened several times over the years we had it. Just a thought !! The points earth lead also springs to mind as a regular item. Not unreliable just 250000 ks of motoring as I recall. And the auto rebuild !
    Good luck jaahn

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Kapunda
    Posts
    334

    Default

    Sorry for the long delay, and thanks for all the help.The Starter problem was a dodgy Ign Switch_now fixed. However I am still stuck with the rear brake drum problem.I just cannot see any way of backing off the shoes.
    Woody

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    1,803

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brian woodcock View Post
    Sorry for the long delay, and thanks for all the help.The Starter problem was a dodgy Ign Switch_now fixed. However I am still stuck with the rear brake drum problem.I just cannot see any way of backing off the shoes.
    Woody
    Hi Brian
    one problem down one to go ??
    I have worked in the tropics/pacific island a couple of times. The brakes are a common problem there when you want to ressurect a car Use WD, diesel etc in copius quantities where ever you can get it in there. Use the hammer around the drum and not too gently. Come back to it a few times. I made a couple of bars to put in the wheel holes so i could then put pressure on with a long bar to get them to turn. Use you imagination to turn them. Sometimes it works, sometimes the linings come off, sometimes finally you have to just pull the drum off and fix the bits after The shoes come off all right, it is just the springy things that hold them against the backing plate that get broken.
    Good luck and just show it who's boss
    Jaahn

  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Clarendon, South Australia
    Posts
    35

    Default

    Hi Brian,

    It is great to hear of yet another R20 returning to the roads. I have a 1979 Series 1 which I have owned since 1984. I drive the car on a very regular basis and it is still going very well. The car started life as a 4 speed manual but some years ago I converted it to a 5 speed. The car has now done 357,000kms.

    I agree with Simon that the wheel cylinders have probably rusted because the car was sitting for so long and are now jambed in position. There is a factory puller for the rear brake drums, which attaches to the 4 wheel nuts. It looks reasonably simple and something similar should not be too hard to fabricate if you have access to a welder.

    I note you live in Kapunda. There is another Renault enthusiast who lives in Kapunda. I believe he is currently trying to get another R20 back on the road. He has owned 20s in the past, so should be able to assist you with a few things. His name is Jeff Ranford and you may know him.

    Good luck getting the car going again.

    Regards

    John


    Reno 20 Brakes-r20-brake-puller-001.jpg
    Sunroof likes this.

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Kapunda
    Posts
    334

    Default

    Thanks for that John,I will try to get in touch with Jeff.I have a Litchfield puller similar to the one shown, the trouble is it wants to pull off the brake shoes as well!!
    Woody

  11. #11
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    8,463

    Default

    I was wondering whether you can get the whole assembly off and drop it in a bath of diesel, go on holiday, and try again when you get home. Just a thought. Anything that loosens up whatever is seized and lubricates everything ought to help. It might beat breaking something. Might be safer too.

    Good luck.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Peugeot 306 XT 1995 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  12. #12
    Simon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    5,733

    Default

    Just another thought. Given it sounds like the linings are stuck to the drum, and no amount of car rocking, soaking, etc has broken the rust bond. How about undoing the brake line from the wheel cylinder, then the wheel cylinder bolts from the back plate. Then the shoes are secured to the backplate by the shoe retainer clips, these may be able to be sacrificed from the accessible side of the backplate. This should loosen the drum, perhaps by an amount that permits the drum/shoe/spring combination to be jiggled over the retainer clip at the base of the backplate (the handbrake cable through the backplate adding to the complication). However it may provide just enough access to permit the shoes to be knocked off the drum.

    A lot of stuffing around, but it may work.
    JohnW likes this.
    1963 Renault R4 Van
    1964 Renault R4
    1967 Volkswagen 1300 Deluxe
    1969 Renault 8 Gordini 1300
    2005 Renaultsport Clio 182 Cup

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Kapunda
    Posts
    334

    Default

    Thanks all.I got in touch with Jeff Ranford this morning and he has given me a few pointers.Will report on progress later.
    Woody

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •