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Thread: R8/R10 Hub Assemblies

  1. #26
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by R8RX View Post
    What is the easiest way to get the inner bearing of the stub axle ?
    Don’t know this is the easiest way, but I have often used a 100 mm grinder with a cutting disc to grind a flat on the inner down to a point where it starts to go blue at the closest part to the axle, maybe a mm thick. I stop at this point before going through to the axle and give it a hit with a cold chisel, usually cracking it and making it easy to remove. Requires some dexterity with the angle grinder, but I have done this successfully more than a dozen times over the years without damage to the axle.

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    Used the split plate bearing puller advice Pulled off two bearings on no time, but wrecked two bearing seal holder plates

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    What is the weak points on these assemblies? Thinking of motorsport use.

  4. #29
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    I'm not remotely qualified to comment! I will say that the later ones have stronger stub axles. There are kits available to reinforce the steering rack mountings.

    PM Frans!!!
    JohnW

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    Quote Originally Posted by R8RX View Post
    Used the split plate bearing puller advice Pulled off two bearings on no time, but wrecked two bearing seal holder plates
    Yes, you would have! The later ones for the stronger stub axles are available as a replacement part I think.
    JohnW

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    Yes, i have seen some pictures of a strut brace for the steering rack. But my steering rack and steering column are lowered.

    Yes, new plates are on their way from France.

  7. #32
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    The type of motorsport you intend to participate in will determine the weak points. Most upgrades such as bracing the steering rack and dual shock rear ends are mostly rallying upgrades.

    I assume that if your rack is lowered it is because the ride height was raised for rallying. If you intend to race on a sealed race track, the rack should be returned back to the original height or higher to maintain the correct geometry if the car is lowered for tarmac race track work.

    There are many rallying experts here however I recall that if you're going rallying, the front suspension arms need to be reinforced and there are many areas of the chassis that will require reinforcement. History shows however that it will still flex and crack after some serious rally use.
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    Not entirely sure why the rack was lowered. Rideheight seems to be standard. But I believe it has to do with everything between the suspension arms were Volvo-stuff. So could be because of the position of steering arms. I am in the process of rebuilding back to R8 parts because of regulations.

    So anyway it is smart to brace the steering rack Suspension arms are already reinforced. Not going rallying with the car. But it is an old rallycross/hillclimb car. Yes, have some hours of welding the car. But mostly because of rust.

  9. #34
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    Hi R8RX
    With regards to the rebuilding of the steering and correcting the rack position. As you are probably aware the rack position is adjustable in the standard car so it can be moved slightly to make the geometry correct. This applies to getting the rack end joints in the correct relationship to the upper and lower wishbone inner pivot positions. If this is not correct it will give changes to the toe of the front wheels during wheel movement. This will make the steering twitchy under bumps or worse !

    The genuine manual has a procedure to check this and correct it. But from my memory it is not clear what was intended to be the reason for it and the step by step description does not help if you do not know what you are trying to achieve. It was only meant to adjust small position changes caused by minor accident damage and some minor bending and repair.
    Good luck Jaahn

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    Hi Jaahn! Thank you! Yes, bump steer is a thing I am concerned about. I know what can cause it, but that's all really. My rack is mounted directly in the crossmember, in the lowest hole. So I guess we are talking about a movement of centimeters from the original position. I have a feeling I need to do something with the rack. Maybe wait and see and when everything else is back to original, then concentrate on the steering rack.

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    I've bought a set of NOS tie rods since I need to replace the custom ones which currently sits on the car. One tie rod is slightly longer than the other. Which tie rod goes to which side of the car?

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    I thought they were the same length but I can't find two to compare - I've been tidying up and losing things is always the result!

    However, they can only fit one way - there are two part numbers, one for each side. My term is that they are "handed", that is a left-hand side and a right-hand side. Are they the old ones with the adjustment on the eye bolt at the rack or the new ones with an adjustment in the rod itself?

    Cheers
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    Yes, these are the old ones with the adjustment on the eye bolt. Haven't got anything to compare with either. It is definitely a left and right side yes. But I don't have a parts list or something similar to check with.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by R8RX View Post
    Yes, these are the old ones with the adjustment on the eye bolt. Haven't got anything to compare with either. It is definitely a left and right side yes. But I don't have a parts list or something similar to check with.
    Do you have parts numbers for them?

    My manual (P.R. 818, Renault 8, 1965-1973) gives two number sets:

    Left: 09 81 950 300 for most cars and 77 01 453 399 for a few R1132 cars if I read it correctly
    Right: 09 81 950 400 for most cars and 77 01 453 400 for a few R1132 cars.

    They can only fit on one side correctly. What is the length difference?

    Try to find a parts book on ebay. They are fantastic.

    Cheers
    Last edited by JohnW; 12th March 2019 at 09:22 PM.
    JohnW

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  15. #40
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    Hi,

    I have 2 Quintin Hazel NOS ones that will go onto my Gordini soon. The ones I have are the same length for RH and LH. I hope you have measured wrong or maybe we are talking a few mm and not more.

    If they are equal length it is easy to ID them when you install the rack first. Then the angle at the rack end will tell you straight away which is which. If it is difficult to connect the ball joint end you have them the wrong way around. The twist at the rack end is there to locate the ball joint end easier.

    I would think they are the same lengths.

    Frans.
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    It's quite awhile ago since a played with these but doesn't one have an oval cast on it to indicate which side it goes. I am sure the manual tells you which.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Do you have parts numbers for them?

    My manual (P.R. 818, Renault 8, 1965-1973) gives two number sets:

    Left: 09 81 950 300 for most cars and 77 01 453 399 for a few R1132 cars if I read it correctly
    Right: 09 81 950 400 for most cars and 77 01 453 400 for a few R1132 cars.

    They can only fit on one side correctly. What is the length difference.

    Try to find a parts book on ebay. They are fantastic.

    Cheers
    I have a P.R.700 Renault 8 R1130

    Left: 9819503
    Right: 9819504
    Regards Col

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Do you have parts numbers for them?

    My manual (P.R. 818, Renault 8, 1965-1973) gives two number sets:

    Left: 09 81 950 300 for most cars and 77 01 453 399 for a few R1132 cars if I read it correctly
    Right: 09 81 950 400 for most cars and 77 01 453 400 for a few R1132 cars.

    They can only fit on one side correctly. What is the length difference?

    Try to find a parts book on ebay. They are fantastic.

    Cheers
    I also have a P.R. 992 Alpine A110 1973

    It agrees with Johns numbers above.
    Regards Col

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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    I have a P.R.700 Renault 8 R1130

    Left: 9819503
    Right: 9819504
    They added quite a few zeros over time....
    JohnW

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  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    They added quite a few zeros over time....
    Yer I noticed that after I had typed them in and was comparing.
    Regards Col

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    I have to check numbers when I get home from work. When you put the two tie rods together the difference in lengts is clearly visible. I would say about 1cm. They came in a Renault plastic bag, but the text on label was gone. Someone made a new label and wrote Renault 8 + 10 on it.

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    Thank you for your help

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    The new type of tie rods, these that are adjustable. Are they something that was orginally manufactured by Renault or are they been produced by others later?

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    Quote Originally Posted by R8RX View Post
    The new type of tie rods, these that are adjustable. Are they something that was orginally manufactured by Renault or are they been produced by others later?
    As far as I can make out they are from the newer Renault models that happen to fit the older ones as well.

    I think the R5 tie rods fit the R8/R10
    Regards Col

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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    As far as I can make out they are from the newer Renault models that happen to fit the older ones as well.

    I think the R5 tie rods fit the R8/R10
    Ok, thank you

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