Succumbed to Modernisation - Page 2
  • Register
  • Help
Page 2 of 3 First 123 Last
Results 26 to 50 of 59
Like Tree13Likes

Thread: Succumbed to Modernisation

  1. #26
    COL
    COL is offline
    A110 COL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Van Diemen's Land
    Posts
    3,713

    Default

    Not sure what was in your hazard flasher kit Kevin, but here is a schematic of a kit available from AES

    Advertisement


    http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.u...ng_diagram.jpg
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1995 Renault Laguna V6
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  2. #27
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    4,221

    Default

    Armadillo, perhaps.
    COL, I only got what was in the last pic. Looks like I'll need to add a separately relay/flasher can for the hazards? I thought maybe the switch did that.
    KB


  3. #28
    COL
    COL is offline
    A110 COL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Van Diemen's Land
    Posts
    3,713

    Default

    The switch looks to small to contain a flasher unit.

    You may want to check with a multimeter the operation of the switch to make sure that you have the connections correct.

    You will need something similar to these flasher units

    hazard flasher unit | eBay
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1995 Renault Laguna V6
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  4. #29
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Melbourne / Caulfield
    Posts
    18,043

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    Armadillo, perhaps.
    COL, I only got what was in the last pic. Looks like I'll need to add a separately relay/flasher can for the hazards? I thought maybe the switch did that.
    Actually, provided your existing flasher is rated to the load of of total lamp load .

    IIRC The entire circuit can be concocted using a single pole 15 amp switch and three 10 amp diodes. I need to figure out the circuit again.

    It's far more reliable than multi pole switches because there is less to go wrong.

    At worst you need to replace you flasher can with a heavy duty "transistor" unit that flashes at the same rate regardless of load current.

    IMO the less relay and switch contacts additional to the OEM wiring the better.
    JohnW likes this.
    Departed the Aussie Frogs Community 14 September 2018.

    The moderator/leader should not operate for the sole benefit of himself and his kind but for the benefit of the people at large and of the AF Fraternity and its patterns, as becomes what he perceives as fitting into place, into his sense of natural justice.
    with apologies to Judy Grahn

  5. #30
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    4,221

    Default

    I have something similar to the Bosch unit at the top of that eBay list already in the drawer.
    I'll have a play with that first based on the diagram COL provided.

    I'm hoping to get the wiring tested and sorted before I put the dash back in, then it becomes much harder access wise.
    KB


  6. #31
    COL
    COL is offline
    A110 COL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Van Diemen's Land
    Posts
    3,713

    Default

    The switch looks to small to contain a flasher unit.

    You may want to check with a multimeter the operation of the switch to make sure that you have the connections correct.

    You will need something similar to these flasher units

    hazard flasher unit | eBay
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1995 Renault Laguna V6
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  7. #32
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    10,153

    Default

    I reckon the screen GPS is really good, but as a supplement to the real one. I reckon the real one's accuracy on mine is as follows, approximately of course):

    Indicated (mph) Actual (kph)
    45 60
    50-55 70
    60 80
    75 100 (4,000 rpm in top gear)

    Cheers
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  8. #33
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    4,221

    Default

    My little bench test rig proved the hazard switch is just that, not a flasher control unit.
    A narva flasher unit I have worked but flashed the one globe I had rigged up too fast. The "Bosch" unit I could get to click but not flash the globe. Might have to hunt down another flasher can to try.
    KB


  9. #34
    COL
    COL is offline
    A110 COL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Van Diemen's Land
    Posts
    3,713

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    My little bench test rig proved the hazard switch is just that, not a flasher control unit.
    A narva flasher unit I have worked but flashed the one globe I had rigged up too fast. The "Bosch" unit I could get to click but not flash the globe. Might have to hunt down another flasher can to try.
    Kevin you will need more than one globe to make the flasher flash at the right rate (what you mimicked was like a blown globe in the car). The globes need to be 18 watt and to bench test the flasher that you have you will need 4 globes.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1995 Renault Laguna V6
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  10. #35
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    10,153

    Default

    Do you have an electronic flasher or a conventional thermal unit? The thermal ones depend upon current for speed but the electronic ones are, if I understand it correctly, not current dependent, so maybe would work for you at the right speed?

    Cheers
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  11. #36
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    4,221

    Default

    The indicator flasher is the std Renault one.
    The other two I refer to are both the electronic type - One is a Narva brand; the other is an unnamed Bosch clone similar to the top one in the link COL posted. The Narva was brand new I bought a number of years ago for my sister-in-laws' car, but turned out to not be the problem so it was put in a drawer and forgotten. The "Bosch" unit I don't recall where it came from - perhaps it was an indicator flasher can off a car I have dismantled - maybe it doesn't work.

    I suspect COL is correct in that my test rig was failed. The first time I used an R8 front sidelight as the globe, the second time the globe off the back of the dash for the indicators both would be much lower wattage than COL recommends. I think I will wire up the two indicator wires to the indicator switch wires on the actual car; then wire the Narva flasher and my new switch using the schematic COL provided but give it temporary power using my bench power supply - I don't want to reconnect the battery while the dash is apart and wires hanging everywhere. If the lights flash correctly, I'm home and hosed and the wiring (which needs to be there anyhow) is partly done already. If it still flashes too fast, then maybe it is a matter of trying a few flash cans.

    I can't progress anything else until the pin for the wiper motor is machined; and I get the dash and cable back anyhow so I may as well tinker with this while the dash is out.
    KB


  12. #37
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    loneliness capital of the world
    Posts
    8,382

    Default

    Another option is to just wire in the hazard switch in parallel with the indicator switch on the existing flasher relay you have. From experience, this will make your flasher go twice as fast, because your old unit is load dependent. Rob's suggestion takes you out of this pickle. Get a new flasher unit load independent and you're set.

    Or, just use one of your spare relays in independent of the existing one as you plan. You can still connect the dash light output to the existing one (if the hazard switch you have doesn't have one, or you want both to operate when hazards are on).

    PS. I wouldn't machine the shaft of that wiper motor. Much easier to adapt the lever, or make a custom one that replaces the original. Actually I would take the latter option because that would allow immediate swap back to original, you know, just in case.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 19th October 2016 at 05:25 PM.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  13. #38
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    4,221

    Default

    Schlitzaugen,
    I'm not modifying the wiper motor shaft. The new motor has a thicker shaft and therefore a bigger nut. The old shaft also had a key way arrangement which the new one doesn't. I looked at modifying the original piece that bolts to the shaft, but decided in the end it would be easier to make up a new one as a replacement. Part of the difficulty is that the nut on the original is quite small and fits into a recess in the rubber. The larger nut that fits the new shaft, is bigger and while it fits in the recess, does not allow a spanner or socket access to tighten. There is not enough "meat" to drill it out.

    This "plate" for want of a better word, has a pin with a circlip groove which then connects to a smaller arm which in turn connects the wiper rods that ultimately turn the shafts. Again, this was something that needed to be done on the R12 conversions in the past also.
    KB


  14. #39
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    loneliness capital of the world
    Posts
    8,382

    Default

    I think making a new plate is the way to go.

    Some pictures might help with your conundrum.

    What size are the old and the new shaft nuts?

    I see in your picture the new motor installed, with the shaft poking through the firewall. To me it sort of looks like a M8? shaft? If that is the case, you can find undersized nuts, most likely on japanese cars (most of the time these are serrated flange nuts, so it's a bonus on condition the flange is small enough to go through the recess).

    Failing that, I would look at a long nut (they are sold as "nut extenders" or "shaft extenders"), but this assumes you can have it poke out of whatever arrangement you have. They are long enough that you can trim them to whatever size you need. If need be, you can machine a shoulder at the end where they have to go through the flange. Have a look at Bunno's or similar.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  15. #40
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    4,221

    Default

    I've actually received the new plate - the pin was made today as a foreign order, and attached to the plate I'd already fabricated. I'll post some pics tonight, it won't let me do it from work. So I'll hopefully be putting that in tonight.

    Not a bad suggestion on the extended hex nut - bit like a manifold nut I imagine. I don't think it can extend too far out though without interfering with the secondary arm that attaches via circlip. Hopefully I won't need it now anyhow with the new plate being completed.
    KB


  16. #41
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    4,221

    Default

    So, this has been put on the back burner while I was overseas on hols, but back into it now.
    Just before I left I received a new speedo cable (new inner and outer and reusing the gearbox end ferrule) and the refurbished speedo. Not cheap at $880 but good to retain the original equipment. The wiper motor is in and tested. The sweep of one arm is shorter than I would have liked, I may need to muck around with the lengths of the connectors later to improve but it's working for now.

    The headlight alert is in. The hazards have been tested but I need to complete the wiring and then put the dash back in.
    I ended up using the std flasher can. On the indicator switch there is three wires, a pink or red and blue for left and right indicators; and a grey wire in the centre that connects to the flashing power supply of the can. I just ran three wires from these to behind the dash and then used a plug to connect these to the three respective wires of the switch.

    Hopefully it will all be back together and working over the weekend. The dash reinstall being the hardest part!

    KB
    KB


  17. #42
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    loneliness capital of the world
    Posts
    8,382

    Default

    Shit almighty. 880$ for a speedo cable and a gauge refurbish?! I reckon you won't make a huge profit if you ever sell the car.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  18. #43
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    10,153

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    Shit almighty. 880$ for a speedo cable and a gauge refurbish?! I reckon you won't make a huge profit if you ever sell the car.
    Doesn't matter. You don't sell good R8s.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  19. #44
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    10,153

    Default

    Sounds good. I've never, ever pulled the dash on mine. I probably should, to sort out the rat's nest of wiring that has "evolved" over the years. Ditto the 4CV!

    Has your R8 ever broken down and needed hazard flashers?

    Hope the holiday was good.

    Cheers
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  20. #45
    VIP Sponsor 59 Floride's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    It's how I roll...Brisbane
    Posts
    32,211

    Default

    KB,
    I hope you bought me back a Hawaiian shirt..

  21. #46
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    4,221

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 59 Floride View Post
    KB,
    I hope you bought me back a Hawaiian shirt..
    I thought you were well stocked already?

    John, only once. Heading to the Junee muster when the push on fuel line came loose. But I thought if it's all apart, it's a good time to do it.
    JohnW likes this.
    KB


  22. #47
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    4,221

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    Shit almighty. 880$ for a speedo cable and a gauge refurbish?! I reckon you won't make a huge profit if you ever sell the car.
    I'm pretty much resigned to making a 50% loss. My only hope is if non-gordinis start making a huge surge in value due to their apparent rarity!
    KB


  23. #48
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    10,153

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    I'm pretty much resigned to making a 50% loss. My only hope is if non-gordinis start making a huge surge in value due to their apparent rarity!
    We live in hope..... Our R8 costs, amortised over 43 years, are probably OK.

    Yours would be one of the very best original R8s I've ever seen, that is for sure.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  24. #49
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    10,153

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    I'm pretty much resigned to making a 50% loss. My only hope is if non-gordinis start making a huge surge in value due to their apparent rarity!
    We live in hope..... Our R8 costs, amortised over 43 years, are probably OK.

    Yours would be one of the very best original R8s I've ever seen, that is for sure.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  25. #50
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    4,221

    Default

    So it's all back together and working.
    The only downfall to my plan is that the hazards only work when the ignition is on (as they are powered by the indicator can). I'll have to think about how I can wire a discrete switch so that it takes ign 12v+ for most of the time and switch to fused constant 12V+ if and when the hazards are needed.

    The headlight alert also buzzes slightly when the car is running (and the door closed). Maybe a small bit of rubber on the door might help depress the door switch further in - perhaps to compensate for a worn switch.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Succumbed to Modernisation-dscn2885.jpg   Succumbed to Modernisation-dscn2884.jpg  
    KB


Page 2 of 3 First 123 Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •