R12 Alternator Upgrade - Page 2
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Thread: R12 Alternator Upgrade

  1. #26
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Another good reason my cars have battery isolation switches. Makes it very easy to avoid any zaps and sparks when working on or near those components.

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  2. #27
    1000+ Posts REN TIN TIN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    I love that. Disconnect the battery when changing the oil filter.

    There must be room somewhere for a fuel filter on the suction side of the pump. ??
    It's no big deal to disconnect the battery in a 12. The battery terminal has a wing nut so one doesn't even need any tools.
    There are no computers that need PIN numbers and in mine there's not even a clock or stereo to reset.
    The joys of simplicity.

    Regarding the fuel filter, there's a solid fuel line running from the rear subframe to the inner front guard.
    There's about a 2 inch gap between the pipe and pump in the front and probably slightly longer in the rear between the pipe and fuel tank. The back is out, I don't want to be crawling under the car to check or change a fuel filter.
    I could possibly cut down the solid pipe in the front but then I'd have to mount the filter under the front guard.
    It's not ideal but it came from the factory like this in 1973 and if it was good enough for Renault back then it's good enough for me now.

    Cheers
    Ren
    "I cannot help but notice that there is no problem between us that cannot be solved by your departure."

  3. #28
    1000+ Posts REN TIN TIN's Avatar
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    One small issue has arisen with this set up.
    The old V-pulley that was transferred from the old R12 Bosch alternator to the Mitsubishi alternator has a much larger diameter than the previous ribbed-belt pulley on the Mitsubishi hence the alternator runs at a lower speed at idle than it was designed for.
    Still pushes out around 13.8 volts at idle with no load (engine only) so is enough.
    At idle with load, (i.e. lights, brake lights, etc.) it drops to about 13.2 - 13.4 so is still charging.
    At speed say, 3000RPM, it's pushing out around 14.1 - 14.2 volts so not a problem.
    One thing found is the heater fan is drawing what I consider huge currents when on high speed.
    It's about 10 amps which I think is high (I'll have to check the spec in the manual).

    Cheers
    Ren
    "I cannot help but notice that there is no problem between us that cannot be solved by your departure."

  4. #29
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Nah, 10Amps is just enough to actually move some air. I would be worried if it used less, for that would mean it's not actually doing anything.

    Check the fan fuse for rating.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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