Scenic Catastrophic Problem
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Thread: Scenic Catastrophic Problem

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default Scenic Catastrophic Problem

    Hi: I have a 2001 Renault Scenic Manual 2wd 2litre. I've brought a new battery and new main fuses and have checked all the earth points and wires I can. No change. The Computer analyiser has come up with these faults, in exact order.
    Engine:
    Throttle potentiometer circuit, Engine Immoboliser, Engine Immoboliser, (yes twice) Brake pedal sensor circuit, manifold pressure circuit, cruise control speed limiter, motorised throttle control circuit.
    Immoboliser:
    Ring Supply.
    Interconnection unit:
    R.F KEY to be resyncronised, raise driver side electric window power. (since this event happened the window is stuck half way down other windows work fine)
    ABS. All Clear.
    Airbag:
    Computer supply voltage.

    General report Computer supply voltage 12.48v

    So the warning dash lights are all lit up and flashing and the car turns over but doesn't start. Warning dashlights include yellow electrical circuit, immoboliser red light, red stop light and a couple of others.

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    Can you please tell me how to fix my car?
    or if I have to who is going to be the best and fairest Renault dealer in Melbourne?

    cheers
    Bob

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    I'd hazard a guess at a serious wiring issue. I'd be searching for disconnected multi pin connectors or rodent chewed cable. especially from the Ecu - to dash and Ecu- engine harness. Don't overlook disconnected or damaged earths either.

    Addo will doubtless give more detailed advice.

  3. #3
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    I wonder if the battery was disconnected and that clears the fault history. That when reconnected with the fault/immobiliser etc history cleared , that it might start and run.

    I guess that any Renault Dealer would like it conveyed to their premises for detailed examination and hopefully a similar inexpensive outcome before anyone tries anything!!. Wonderful part of having RACV service and towing at no cost insurance/service level

    Ken

  4. #4
    COL
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    Why did you need new main fuses? may lead to helping diagnose the problem.
    addo likes this.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
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  5. #5
    Tadpole
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    Why did you need new main fuses? may lead to helping diagnose the problem.
    Fuses replaced looked totally fine just like the battery seemed fine it was a hope and pray strategy.

  6. #6
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Back to "was the battery disconnected"? Or was a small bridging voltage applied while the new one was going in?

    I'm with Kenfuego as a starter, following a careful inspection looking for damaged wiring.

    What a bugger. Good luck.
    JohnW

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    1000+ Posts Fordman's Avatar
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    If you are wanting to check the connector to the ECU, and it is the same as mine and seemingly impossible to access, then this previous thread I put up may be of assistance, if you haven't already done it.

    DPO Auto Trans and CLIP Diagnosis

    (Look at post #10 onwards)

    But as above comments, I would look at getting the existing faults cleared, then have another go and see which new codes pop up.

    Good Luck.
    2004 Scenic I 2.0 auto (Hers)
    2016 Ford Territory (His)
    2004 WRX (Sunday car)

  8. #8
    COL
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    I'm with Fordman, you need to clear all the codes and then have a go at starting the car and see what codes re-appear.

    The old codes will only confuse the issue and lead you into a miss diagnosis.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  9. #9
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Was the car given an attempted jump start?

    Have you fitted or removed any items such as towbar or radio recently?

    Have you driven through deep water in the last few months?

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts REN TIN TIN's Avatar
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    The supply voltage at 12.48 is low.
    Measure the voltage at the battery, it should be around 13.8 volts.
    If it is low (maybe from your attempts to start the engine), charge it up.

    If the voltage is still low you've either got a short in the wiring somewhere loading the circuit, or maybe a duff battery.
    I know the battery's brand new but even new batteries can be faulty sometimes.

    The turning over but not starting can be a sign of an immobiliser problem.
    "I cannot help but notice that there is no problem between us that cannot be solved by your departure. Mark Twain"

  11. #11
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    Battery level douse seem low .have you locked the car with the key ,then unlocked it with the key ,then try starting it ,immobilizer may think you are trying to steal it ,pugs
    Graelin likes this.

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts Kim Luck's Avatar
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    The turning over and not starting problem can also be down to the TDC sensor. Clean it or replace it.
    Don't it always seem to go that you don't know what you've got 'til it's gone............

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    Is that 12.48 volt during cranking or just sitting still? If it's during cranking, I'd say the power supply is OK. But if it's before cranking, it might drop enough during cranking to stop the computer from working properly. If you can try a new battery or recharge it and then try starting (after clearing the codes), it might be that.

    The only battery trouble I ever had in my Scenic when the alternator was flattening it while parked. I suggest running the battery positive cable through a multi-meter (current measurement) while the keys are not in the ignition, and see how much current is drawn.

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger!
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    A wek ago my wife left our Laguna at the beach car park and walked to work after the battery went flat. I left it there for a few hours but no one stole it.

    Bought expensive jumper leads with protection built in and took the spare key (that the press buttons did not work to lock/ unlock the car.)

    Connected the jumper leads during a gale and heavy rain and the engine turned but would not fire. So went to Mrs Lins work got the other key locked and unlocked using it and it fired up straight away. It seems that it thought I was a thief and refused to start when i used the other key after the battery had discharged.

    Today it went flat again, the old battery had lasted only two years and the mechanic had put a 590 amp battery in it last time around and it should have 700 amp. So hope we are all ok now.

  15. #15
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Don't underestimate the ability of your alternator to wear/break down. 590CCA should be plenty to start it.

    I have an Alfa with 150K on the dial, and the alternator is going on that - suspect just the brushes.

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    700CCA? That sounds like Landcruiser diesel territory...

  17. #17
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    DIN66T, probably.

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    I;ve been caught with electrical problems before!! 9 times out of 10 its been the wiring to the tow bar plug. Worth a check if you have a tow bar plug fitted.

  19. #19
    1000+ Posts REN TIN TIN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    Don't underestimate the ability of your alternator to wear/break down. 590CCA should be plenty to start it.

    I have an Alfa with 150K on the dial, and the alternator is going on that - suspect just the brushes.
    What Addo said, 590CCA is more than enough for a non-diesel car.
    The CCA is only needed during cranking, if the engine is turning over okay but not firing it is not the battery capacity that's the issue. If the engine is turning over slowly then it could be the battery capacity (or a faulty starter, or the battery is flat, or there's a problem with the wiring, etc.).
    "I cannot help but notice that there is no problem between us that cannot be solved by your departure. Mark Twain"

  20. #20
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    My Latitude diesel started perfectly well but the car would not drive properly going into limp mode almost straight away. Guess what was faulty ...the battery. New battery and the car was and has continued to be fine. Cranking ability cannot be the only criteria to indicate whether a battery is good enough for a modern car stuffed full of computers and electronic sensors. A starter is not very sensitive to the voltage level, but does require high current flow. On the other hand the electronic stuff is very dependent on voltage level and the current supply required is quite low. Hence in the case of my car the cranking current supply was fine at 11.88 volts but that voltage was not high enough to run the electronics at idle, and so would not allow the engine to speed up enough for the alternator to come up to full voltage..
    Philip76 likes this.

  21. #21
    1000+ Posts N5GTi6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Armidillo View Post
    700CCA? That sounds like Landcruiser diesel territory...
    Peugeot standard fitment battery in our 308 is 800CCA.

    I couldn't find a replacement for that in Australia (other than genuine of course) so had to settle for a DIN66 with 'only' 720CCA as a replacement.

    Cheers

    Justin
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redbacks View Post
    Hi: I have a 2001 Renault Scenic Manual 2wd 2litre. I've brought a new battery and new main fuses and have checked all the earth points and wires I can. No change. The Computer analyiser has come up with these faults, in exact order.
    Engine:
    Throttle potentiometer circuit, Engine Immoboliser, Engine Immoboliser, (yes twice) Brake pedal sensor circuit, manifold pressure circuit, cruise control speed limiter, motorised throttle control circuit.
    Immoboliser:
    Ring Supply.
    Interconnection unit:
    R.F KEY to be resyncronised, raise driver side electric window power. (since this event happened the window is stuck half way down other windows work fine)
    ABS. All Clear.
    Airbag:
    Computer supply voltage.

    General report Computer supply voltage 12.48v

    So the warning dash lights are all lit up and flashing and the car turns over but doesn't start. Warning dashlights include yellow electrical circuit, immoboliser red light, red stop light and a couple of others.

    Can you please tell me how to fix my car?
    or if I have to who is going to be the best and fairest Renault dealer in Melbourne?

    cheers
    Bob
    Hi Bob
    I was just interested in wether or not you were able to find the problem with your vehicle as the POSt seems to have gone into a Battery capacity discussion
    Hope all is fine now
    Restricted to driving Auto
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