2001 Scenic Electronic Fault??
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Thread: 2001 Scenic Electronic Fault??

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default 2001 Scenic Electronic Fault??

    Hi All,

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    I have recently bought a 2001 Scenic auto wagon for my wife to learn to drive. I have had the timing belt replaced as there is 150,000 on the clock and it was overdue. It is a sweet little car and runs well. However an intermittent fault happens mainly when my wife is driving and going slow, parking practice and driving around the car park. The electronic / electric fault light comes on and the car wont idle and if you use the accelerator to get it going the motor revs by itself from about 1000 rpm to 2500 rpm. The local Renault dealer here in Launceston found loose pins in the throttle body and tightened them and this seemed to fix the problem for about 3 weeks. This weekend the fault reappeared. I did an idle relearn procedure on the car and so far the fault has not reappeared. Does this model have and electronic throttle and could I be looking at throttle pedal sensor / throttle sensor problems. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Cheers,

    Harry.

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Fordman's Avatar
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    Yes, it probably has electronic throttle control (fly-by-wire is the common term). Mine is 2003 Scenic 2.0 litre petrol auto, it has fly-by-wire.
    But interestingly, they also have a throttle cable, which is a bit confusing.
    The cable runs from the accelerator pedal across the engine bay to a sensor mounted on a bracket on top of the gearbox on the left hand side of the car. From there it is an electrical wire connection via the wiring harness to the actuator on the throttle body.
    So there is no sensor on the throttle pedal itself.
    Seems crazy, but I guess it is because they can build LH and RH drive cars with the same eng/trans unit installed, still a bit crazy!

    It probably is not your problem because you have a fault code light showing, but mine had the cable twisted a bit between some other stuff, and it made the throttle quite stiff and jerky until I repositioned it - that was from new.

    If you have had fault code light come on, there should be a code logged in the ECU, the Renault dealer should be able to read the code, which should point you to the area or component at fault.

    Just remember the throttle position sensor is mounted at the end of the throttle cable under the bonnet.

    Cheers.
    2004 Scenic I 2.0 auto (Hers)
    2016 Ford Territory (His)
    2004 WRX (Sunday car)

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts
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    My Latitude had a throttle sensor fault show up on the computer and it was the battery that was giving a low volts reading. New battery fault gone.

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts REN TIN TIN's Avatar
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    Poor idle (and running) could also be due to a dirty TDC sensor.
    Take it out and give it a clean.
    It may not fix the problem but cleaning the sensor won't cost you anything except time.
    But as Fordman mentioned, if a warning light has come on there should be a fault logged in the computer and the repairer should be able to determine where to look from that.

    Cheers
    Ren
    "I cannot help but notice that there is no problem between us that cannot be solved by your departure. Mark Twain"

  5. #5
    Tadpole
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    Thank you for your excellent advice blokes. I'll give it a go and let you know how I went.

    Cheers,

    Harry.

  6. #6
    COL
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    Hi Harry

    I have a scan tool if you would like to see what codes you have and reset them.

    Will be in Launceston on Monday, send me a PM if you want.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  7. #7
    Tadpole
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    Hi Col,

    I was thinking of getting an eobd 2 scan tool. Which one do you have. It does the Renault specific codes as well, yes? Sorry for my late reply, I took the Scenic for a run up to Stanley for the weekend and just got back this afternoon. The car behaved itself with just one instance of the fault light occurring which resolved after stopping for two minutes and then proceeding.

    Cheers,

    Harry.

  8. #8
    COL
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    Hi Harry

    I have the icarsoft i907 www.icarsoft.us_Multiple_vehicles_scantools

    I bought mine off fleabay.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! CC1701's Avatar
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    hi
    we had the same issue with ours, same model.
    there are just two parts to look at and replace.

    the pedal position sensor located towards the firewall on the left side of the engine bay. it has a cable going into it.
    these sometimes can become faulty and need replacing (not cheap, so look for a secondhand one. its also common to meganes)

    the most likely problem is the throttle body itself. if it is really faulty then it will need to be replaced. again costly so a good second hand one if possible. it seems to be scenic specific.

    if the car is playing up try the following procedure:

    1. turn the engine off and remove the key
    2. wait 30 seconds
    3. reinsert the key and turn it to the ON position, Don't start the engine.
    4. wait about 30 seconds. in which time you will hear some faint noises which is the throttle body calibrating itself.
    5. turn the key to the OFF position and withdraw it.
    6. wiat about 30 more seconds for the new throttle calibration to be written to the ecu. its done when the red light on the dash starts to flash.
    7. insert the key and start the engine. if the engine runs normally (which it should) then do a test drive to see if it is all OK.

    if the car runs fine after doing this, the throttle body was not correctly calibrated.
    if the problem returns after a while (could be days, could be months) then the throttle body is worn and needs to be replaced (challenging job).

    repeat the above procedure when installing a new throttle body.

    good luck
    robert
    Fordman likes this.

  10. #10
    Member Philip76's Avatar
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    I had similar problems for years and I traced it to poor wiring near the pedal sensor (which is the thing in the engine bay you've all been talking about). The wiring had been altered by an after-market cruise control installer, and they did a poor job of soldering it and insulating it. When I removed the cruise control and re-did the soldering, sealing it all up properly, the fault was completely cured. Only worry about this if you have a cruise control wired in. Otherwise, the factory loom should be OK.

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