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    Default front guard

    G'day Froggers, as you know I have been attempting to fix the strut problem on the driver's side. I have managed to manufacture a plate to sit around the outside of the suspension tower. I went to manufacture a plate to sit on the inside of the wheel arch. This would enable me to sandwich the rusted and cracked tower between two plates/sheets of metal. I have drilled holes through the tower. I have also drilled holes through the inner guard so that everything will once be connected. While I was making a pattern for the inner plate. I noticed that there is more rust and cracking up against the inner wheel well. Taking the front guard off would enable me to have access so that I can remove, treat and repair that rust and crack. Just how hard is it to get the front panel driver's side panel off? This "surface rust" has really come back to bite me in the arse. Can anyone make any suggestions. It is turning into an absolute nightmare.

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    Another question I have is, is the wheel well metal too thin to Mig weld? Three of my friends who are proficient welders are all in agreement that it is. They all agree that oxy welding is the best way to go. getting my hands one though is bloody near on impossible. I don't have the advantage of being near any major city. Yours Sincerely Shane.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SHANE51 View Post
    G'day Froggers, as you know I have been attempting to fix the strut problem on the driver's side. I have managed to manufacture a plate to sit around the outside of the suspension tower. I went to manufacture a plate to sit on the inside of the wheel arch. This would enable me to sandwich the rusted and cracked tower between two plates/sheets of metal. I have drilled holes through the tower. I have also drilled holes through the inner guard so that everything will once be connected. While I was making a pattern for the inner plate. I noticed that there is more rust and cracking up against the inner wheel well. Taking the front guard off would enable me to have access so that I can remove, treat and repair that rust and crack. Just how hard is it to get the front panel driver's side panel off? This "surface rust" has really come back to bite me in the arse. Can anyone make any suggestions. It is turning into an absolute nightmare.

    Another question I have is, is the wheel well metal too thin to Mig weld? Three of my friends who are proficient welders are all in agreement that it is. They all agree that oxy welding is the best way to go. getting my hands one though is bloody near on impossible. I don't have the advantage of being near any major city. Yours Sincerely Shane.
    Is your car a UK import or something? I've never heard of a 19 having rust at all let alone structual like yours. We've wrecked hundreds and never seen rust.

    MIG welding shouldn't be a problem, the metal around there should be plenty thick enough, I'm currently MIG welding a Dauphine engine under tray that's so floppy I've seen stiffer newspaper, it's very hard to weld but I'll get there.
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    G'day David, I have no idea where the car came from. As I stated, when I bought the car I noticed the rust. My mechanic friend and I weren't too worried about it. As you said, it is unheard of to have rust there. All my friends have never seen anything like it either. While repairing it I found more rust. Basically three quarters has rusted out. The only section that isn't rusted out is where it is attatched to the firewall. I am currently "sandwiching" the forward and engine bay side of the tower with two sheets of metal. One within the engine bay itself. The other within the tower the tower. None of my welder friends will touch it. They are worried about blowing holes. I hope to rivet the two sections together using solid steel rivets. Failing this I will use bolts with the appropriate shank and nyloc nuts. The section next to the outer will be done in a similar way. That section is relatively easy. The reason I was looking at removing the front guard was so that I could drill bolt/rivet holes. I found a drill small enough that fits on the inside of the tower. Thank heaven for that. I had a quick look to see how the guard is removed. It looks like it is a fairly time consuming job. Yours Sincerely Shane

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    1000+ Posts REN TIN TIN's Avatar
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    Wouldn't it be easier to just get another 19 with a sound body and duff mechanicals and do a body swap?
    There are still some R19 around and normally at minimal cost.
    Riveting plates over the tower might work with the cosmetics but it's never going to be as strong as the original
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    Quote Originally Posted by REN TIN TIN View Post
    Wouldn't it be easier to just get another 19 with a sound body and duff mechanicals and do a body swap?
    There are still some R19 around and normally at minimal cost.
    Riveting plates over the tower might work with the cosmetics but it's never going to be as strong as the original
    I tend to agree with this.
    The strut towers are about the most important structural parts of the car.

    Jo

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    Quote Originally Posted by REN TIN TIN View Post
    Wouldn't it be easier to just get another 19 with a sound body and duff mechanicals and do a body swap?
    There are still some R19 around and normally at minimal cost.
    Riveting plates over the tower might work with the cosmetics but it's never going to be as strong as the original
    This option must be easier, (though not easy in itself).

    I would also be taking a good long hard look in other parts of the chassis for more rotted out panels.
    If it is rusting there, its either a shonky salt road import or there was a major F/U during manufacture where either the steel or the rust proofing/painting was wrong!!!

    To be honest, if I was looking at a car with your suggested repair...I'd run a mile....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gamma View Post
    :
    To be honest, if I was looking at a car with your suggested repair...I'd run a mile....
    Alternatively, buy a laguna1 ( a r19 on mega-steroids) and drive that mile in sheer luxury...

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    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    Alternatively, buy a laguna1 ( a r19 on mega-steroids) and drive that mile in sheer luxury...
    Ahhh...

    Walk a mile in another mans shoes.....

    That way you have a new pair of shoes.....and a 1mile head start on the guy that cant run you down on a stony road.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    Alternatively, buy a laguna1 ( a r19 on mega-steroids) and drive that mile in sheer luxury...
    There's a nice laguna 1 manual in dad's backyard. I'm sure he'd sell
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    I agree with the others, I'd be worried about driving something riveted together. Your much better off welding, I bet your mates are professional welders and would be trying to run a bead weld along .5mm steel (whatever it is). It aint gunna happen,your mates are right you'll just blow holes. Any panel beater could weld it, you just do it slowly in a series of tacks and allow it to cool.

    But, considering R19's are as cheap as chips I'd be looking for something else.
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Cavanagh View Post
    I agree with the others, I'd be worried about driving something riveted together. .
    You must be a really nervous flyer!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by jo proffi View Post
    You must be a really nervous flyer!!
    I've done enough riveting in my life, I'm allowed to be nervous.

    That's a bit like the statistician who said the safest way to fly was to carry a bomb because the chances of getting on a plane with a bomb on board was about a million to one but the chances of getting on a plane with 2 bombs was about 100million to one so he's answer for nervous flyers was carry a bomb.
    David Cavanagh

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    Quote Originally Posted by David Cavanagh View Post
    I agree with the others, I'd be worried about driving something riveted together. Your much better off welding, I bet your mates are professional welders and would be trying to run a bead weld along .5mm steel (whatever it is). It aint gunna happen,your mates are right you'll just blow holes. Any panel beater could weld it, you just do it slowly in a series of tacks and allow it to cool.

    But, considering R19's are as cheap as chips I'd be looking for something else.
    Cheap for sure, but availability is an issue I reckon, not least for Boyup Brook (where I learned to drive, to give today's really useless information). There's one just down the road from us as of late, but apart from that one and Geckoeng's example, seen this morning, I haven't seen one in Perth for quite a while.

    I reckon the careful check for other rust is the first step. Then decide whether to fix what you have or quit now. I wonder if someone drove it on the beach at Bunbury or something stupid?

    Good luck.
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    1000+ Posts REN TIN TIN's Avatar
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    I can't recall the last time I saw an R19 (in the flesh so to speak) but there are some out there.
    For me rusty spring towers are a terminal fault unless the vehicle is rare and/or valuable.
    If you wait around long enough you'll probably find another R19 going for peanuts/slab of beer/ bottle of red etc.
    They're often scrapped with a good(ish) body but duff auto gearboxes or other mechanical maladies.
    Although it might be a different story over in the west.
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