Stuck half way! Temp Guage on R17
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 11 of 11
Like Tree3Likes
  • 2 Post By COL
  • 1 Post By Shoji

Thread: Stuck half way! Temp Guage on R17

  1. #1
    1000+ Posts Shoji's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Mandurah WA
    Posts
    1,074

    Default Stuck half way! Temp Guage on R17

    Help! Stuck half way! Temp Guage on R17. It was like it when I bought it and only travels 1/4 up to the red zone. But it's not overheating. Just the Guage is jambed at half when cold.
    How can i fix this. Tried the earth out trick with the wire from the sender unit. Sender unit is fine. Any ideas would be appreciated.
    John

    Advertisement

  2. #2
    COL
    COL is offline
    A110 COL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Van Diemen's Land
    Posts
    3,973

    Default

    I would say there is something wrong with the movement in the gauge.

    If you have a real steady hand and lots of patience you could try to dismantle and see what the cause is, and try to fix.

    Another way is to find a good replacement gauge and just swap.

    An easy option is to buy an after market gauge and install in the car.

    The most expensive option it to take it to an instrument fitter and have it repaired.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Shoji's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Mandurah WA
    Posts
    1,074

    Default

    Thanks Col. I was thinking of removing it and having a look. Someone said to me that it may have been caused by a short. But I think your right, the only way is to check it internally. I love fine work so this will be a challenge. Another job on the list to do. Cheers!

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts REN TIN TIN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Brisbane/Australia
    Posts
    2,032

    Default

    Not sure if I'm reading this correctly but are you saying the needle is at halfway when the motor is cold and goes from half to 3/4 when it warms up?
    If so, does it go to zero when the ignition is off or just when the ignition is on with a cold engine.
    If it's a half all the time including when the ignition is off, someone may have pulled the needle off in the past and it was reattached in the wrong position.
    The fix would be to pull the needle off (very carefully) and reattach it so it's pointing in the correct position when cold.
    It probably just an interference fit so the hardest part of the job will be getting the instrument cluster out.
    I didn't ever take apart the gauges on the 17 when I had it but I have pulled apart the Jaeger gauges in one of my 12's and by memory the needles just pull off but they are tight.

    If it goes to zero when the ignition is off and moves to half when the motor is on but cold it could be the wrong temperature sender (resistance is wrong).

    Cheers
    Ren
    "I cannot help but notice that there is no problem between us that cannot be solved by your departure. Mark Twain"

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts Shoji's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Mandurah WA
    Posts
    1,074

    Default

    Hi Ren.
    Yes I thought my explanation may have not been clear enough. So, your right in asking, when the ignition is off it does stay halfway!! You have answered my question with what needs to be done. I didn't think about the needle re-position. Great idea. I was going to try and dial it back manually or see if there is an adjustment screw. We do have an instrument guy that is local if i have doubts doing it.
    Thanks
    John

  6. #6
    COL
    COL is offline
    A110 COL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Van Diemen's Land
    Posts
    3,973

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Shoji View Post
    Hi Ren.
    Yes I thought my explanation may have not been clear enough. So, your right in asking, when the ignition is off it does stay halfway!! You have answered my question with what needs to be done. I didn't think about the needle re-position. Great idea. I was going to try and dial it back manually or see if there is an adjustment screw. We do have an instrument guy that is local if i have doubts doing it.
    Thanks
    John
    When you have set it back to zero you may want to check its rough calibration by putting the sensor in a jug of hot water and a thermometer while using some small alligator leads to jury rig. You want to make sure its into the red before it actually boils to be on the safe side.
    Shoji and JohnW like this.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Armidale
    Posts
    2,286

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    When you have set it back to zero you may want to check its rough calibration by putting the sensor in a jug of hot water and a thermometer while using some small alligator leads to jury rig. You want to make sure its into the red before it actually boils to be on the safe side.

    However, don't forget that both coolant and cooling system pressurisation raise the boiling point, so would suggest 100C should be just at the bottom edge of red zone.

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts Shoji's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Mandurah WA
    Posts
    1,074

    Default

    Thank you Armidillo & Col.

    I will do my checks before heading off into the sunset, blind.

    Would anyone know the actual Ohm resistance value for the sender unit for the 807-10?
    I have just fitted a Covs universal one on my Mercury Outboard with an Ohm resistance level that was close but the gauge hardly moves. I need the correct one with the right level.
    Cheers
    John

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts bowie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Concord City, Sir.
    Posts
    3,356

    Default

    Does seem odd that both gauges failed within short time of each other..

    Earth all ok?

    Works: 1999 Volvo S40 T4, (has Choo Choo's)
    Playing: R12, SuperPos, thinks It's a race car.
    Previous: SuperGrumpy fuel spitting 504ti(ish), SuperComfortable 505 STI, SuperDoper carried my groceries Mi16
    Wanted Ye old K4J / K4M Click!

    "More and more of less and less" - Marina Abramović

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts Shoji's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Mandurah WA
    Posts
    1,074

    Default

    Hi Bowie
    Not the case. I have just bought the car. They were already faulty. But I will at some stage get to this job.

    Trying to sus out a random tick, tick under the hood on the right side at acceleration when driving. Found a broken spring underside the fuel pump which keeps the shaft against the cam and repaired but it's not the sound.
    John

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts Shoji's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Mandurah WA
    Posts
    1,074

    Default

    Thanks, to all that helped. Temp gauge is fixed. I had the temperature checked when running hot using thermal infrared technology. All seems good with cooling system and I have cleaned the over flow bottle (nice clean & green fluid) and the pressure cap checked for functionality. And I have been driving everyday since I bought the car in early November and so there seems no problem with running temp. All I did with the needle was turn it to the cold. Checked and double checked. all seems to be working now. But gauge I have another on it's way just in case.
    Thank you
    John
    renaultmark likes this.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •