Fuego 2.0 Manual Steering Rack R&R
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Thread: Fuego 2.0 Manual Steering Rack R&R

  1. #1
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Icon7 Fuego 2.0 Manual Steering Rack R&R

    I had the privilege of attacking one the other day. A few notes on traps/tricks... You may want to start with a super thorough degrease from the underside up.

    1. Easiest to remove rack in its carrier clamps. 16mm headed bolts, the lower ones are reached from underneath and in front of the crossmember, the uppers most easily removed from above with some swearing all 'round. The reasons are twofold. Firstly the pressed metal retaining saddles are held in at the bottom by a captive 8mm bolt that can (and probably will!) drop irretrievably into the cast backing cradle, requiring removal anyway and secondly to pre-assemble the rack into its mounts using the captive bolt ends to steady, makes for much faster re-positioning into the chassis.

    2. The original inner rack ends are thread locked in besides having those fingered ratchet spring washers. To unscrew I used Stillsons on the rack's cast portion where I found a convenient web to brace the jaws against, then grasped the inner cup firmly with my 12" multis and unscrewed. I further used my body mass to hold the rack braced "into" the Stillsons. One of the fingered washers yielded, one snapped in three.

    3. The TRW boot kit is not an ideal fit on the LHS as it's a bit large for the rack tube. I used a cable tie to adjust clearance downward, the offside was a nice snap fit though. Quite possibly an R12 LH boot would fit fine where I experienced problems. Simon may care to comment.

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    4. When refitting there is a centring peephole in the cast portion of the rack housing with matching notch in the rack proper, you can eyeball this for true when setting up the steering wheel.

    5. A rough setting for toe, measuring out from the end of the inner tie rod, is a further 72mm to the centreline of the pressing for the outer joint ball cup.

    6. For durability I wiped out all old rack grease and replaced with Nulon L80. For the joints I used QH boxed parts, these were clearly from more than one source as the outer joints were quite different to each other! I did not thread lock the inner rod ends as this was in my opinion total overkill.

    Postscript: It's only glancingly relevant to this particular episode, but I would like to again publicly acknowledge the incredible support of Simon here. His efforts have helped me get through some research and repairs without losing a sense of enjoyment throughout the journey.

    Fuego 2.0 Manual Steering Rack R&R-image.jpg Fuego 2.0 Manual Steering Rack R&R-image.jpg Fuego 2.0 Manual Steering Rack R&R-image.jpg

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    should have asked first

    Removing the cradle is death to the handling unless you have the tools and patience to set the rack height.
    Bolts will not fall out and special tool to push them up and keep them up is a bit of line trimmer twine folded in half.

    Jo

  3. #3
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    I got the cradle back in within a fraction of prior location on each side, used the "witness marks" of thirty years in one position. That seemed pleasantly simple. Drives quite well after aligning to factory specs.

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    I got the cradle back in within a fraction of prior location on each side, used the "witness marks" of thirty years in one position. That seemed pleasantly simple. Drives quite well after aligning to factory specs.
    It doesn't take much change in height either side to alter bump steer characteristics, however, you may just be lucky....There is first time for everything!!

    From really rough memory, some version of a mitsubishi magna has almost the same size rubber bushings, sans location slot which needs to be cur or punched.


    Jo

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