R8 engine remount... any tips?
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! forzamacchi's Avatar
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    Default R8 engine remount... any tips?

    Well... cooler temps, the call of Fall and the Best of France of Italy show here in LA has finally given me ample motivation to put my the lump back in my R8. Tonight, I mounted my new clutch and hope to have things ready to go this weekend. Are there any tips for a newbie in regards to an engine remount?

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    Cheers!
    Ben

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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by forzamacchi View Post
    Well... cooler temps, the call of Fall and the Best of France of Italy show here in LA has finally given me ample motivation to put my the lump back in my R8. Tonight, I mounted my new clutch and hope to have things ready to go this weekend. Are there any tips for a newbie in regards to an engine remount? Cheers! Ben
    Love the avatar! We Rouge Trinidad folk must stick together.

    1. Safety first: be super careful not to drop anything on yourself, or trap any fingers.

    2. Take it easy. Slow and steady and stop if something doesn't mate up properly. Look at the problem and analyse - don't force anything. In "the old days" an old friend used to stop and roll a cigarette if something wasn't coming together the right way.

    3. Happily I haven't unbolted an engine for years but the mounts do have a wrong and a right way up if I recall.....

    Best of luck. I missed that French and Italian Day by about a week once. So frustrating, but I just couldn't stay....

    Cheers
    JohnW

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    VIP Sponsor 59 Floride's Avatar
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    Forgive the sidetrack but John have you got a new drone in your toy collection..?

    Every day when I wake up I reach up in the darkness with my eyes shut and if I cannot feel anything that resembles a wooden lid I know it will be a good day. No lid today.

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    Fellow Frogger! forzamacchi's Avatar
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    Great to hear from you John! The good news is that I have a friend who is a motorcycle mechanic helping me with the job. This means patience in challenging moments and someone to tell me to "put down the hammer". I guess a jack will need to be placed under the transmission so I can spin the wheels to mate shaft spine to clutch? Cheers, Ben

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Love the avatar! We Rouge Trinidad folk must stick together.

    1. Safety first: be super careful not to drop anything on yourself, or trap any fingers.

    2. Take it easy. Slow and steady and stop if something doesn't mate up properly. Look at the problem and analyse - don't force anything. In "the old days" an old friend used to stop and roll a cigarette if something wasn't coming together the right way.

    3. Happily I haven't unbolted an engine for years but the mounts do have a wrong and a right way up if I recall.....

    Best of luck. I missed that French and Italian Day by about a week once. So frustrating, but I just couldn't stay....

    Cheers

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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 59 Floride View Post
    Forgive the sidetrack but John have you got a new drone in your toy collection..?

    No, just a newer photo that I prefer and finally got around to changing the avatar for a while. That's where the car lives, under the carport. The repaint, two years ago, was a bit of a shock, as I wasn't used to all those bonnet reflections...
    JohnW

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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Or leave the plugs out so it is easy to turn the engine.
    JohnW

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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    You shouldn't need to spin the wheels to line it up. I usually put a very small smear of grease on the end of the input shaft just to help the splines slip in.

    Have you got the rear back panel off?

    I usually use a mobile engine crane, but have done it a few times with just a chain block dropping the engine straight down then push the engine forward. Make sure you have the bolts and nuts handy for the bellhousing and rear banana shaped mount so you can secure it as soon as you line it up.
    KB


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    Fellow Frogger! forzamacchi's Avatar
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    Rear panels are off and everything else that may cause an obstruction. Should be relatively pain free. Reproofing the firewall and installing tomorrow and taking care of anything else that may need prepping. I am borrowing my neighbors shop crane again, so... fingers crossed!

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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    From what you describe - a piece of piss!
    a 1 person job that should take 10min.

    There's no special tips or tricks, just hoist the engine up as level as you can so be aware of where you attach the chain. The hardest part will be engaging the splines into the clutch - it helps if you've centred the driven plate using a clutch aligning tool?

    Align the spline and engage it, then push the engine home and secure it with a few bolts. You may not get it absolutely all the way home first try, but as long as you can get a few bolts in, then use the bellhousing bolts to bring it together. For the bolts that go into the bellhousing into a cut thread (not many from memory) remember that they are threaded into aluminium so don't go too crazy tightening them. Good lUck
    KB


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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Back panel off is luxury. The last time I did this it was two of us lifting it in by hand with ropes and the back panel in place. It was not easy. Come to think of it, the second of the two hasn't seen me often since that day ...... I've done it that way several times and "never again" comes to mind. Engine cranes are relatively cheap and plentiful these days.
    JohnW

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    Fellow Frogger! forzamacchi's Avatar
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    Default Engine is back in.....but....

    I forgot to tighten the bellhousing bolts to the proper torque setting....and now there is a leak where the bellhousing meets the tranny. I was going to button up the engine tomorrow, but it looks like I am going to have to take care of this issue first. Now, how to figure out to access the bellhousing bolts without removing the engine.........!

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    I assume you mean leaking between the back of the bell-housing and the transmission cases front face?

    You probably need to try to trace that this is where it is coming from specifically. A new seal and/or use of Jointing paste like Hylomar or Permatex will probably make more difference than just torque alone. Other sources of leaks in that general area could be the gearbox input shaft seal or crank main seal but each of these usually leak closer to their respective locations (behind the flywheel & front of the bellhousing). These gearboxes can also leak at the top also, so make sure it isn't dripping down from on top.

    Regardless of the location, I suspect it is engine out to fix which ever the leak is found to be. Lesson learnt.

    Edit - ****************** Important ********************

    If you do take the bellhousing off to repair the seal(s), drain the gearbox oil first. The drain is underneath, the refill is on one side of the casings.
    Last edited by renault8&10; 12th October 2015 at 04:03 PM. Reason: drain gearbox info
    KB


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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    I assume you mean leaking between the back of the bell-housing and the transmission cases front face?

    You probably need to try to trace that this is where it is coming from specifically. A new seal and/or use of Jointing paste like Hylomar or Permatex will probably make more difference than just torque alone. Other sources of leaks in that general area could be the gearbox input shaft seal or crank main seal but each of these usually leak closer to their respective locations (behind the flywheel & front of the bellhousing). These gearboxes can also leak at the top also, so make sure it isn't dripping down from on top.

    Regardless of the location, I suspect it is engine out to fix which ever the leak is found to be. Lesson learnt.

    Edit - ****************** Important ********************

    If you do take the bellhousing off to repair the seal(s), drain the gearbox oil first. The drain is underneath, the refill is on one side of the casings.
    Yup. That's it. Those bolts need to be reasonably tight not extremely tight. Unless they are loose, the leak may not be the tightness issue, as KB said. I used Hylomar, not a paper gasket last time I did that job. Dry as a chip for at least a decade. I'd get it very clean and watch very carefully where the oil is coming from before doing anything. At least you can just slide the engine back and roll it in again once whatever needs fixing has been. All good experience!

    Cheers
    JohnW

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    Also, don't forget there will be two locating collars that surround the two long studs securing the bellhousing to the block. These make sure the trans and engine block are located accurately, so make sure they are not missing or deformed.
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    Fellow Frogger! forzamacchi's Avatar
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    I did use permatex gasket seal in addition to the paper gasket. Also, all seals are new... I am going to remove the engine this morning and inspect the bellhousing. Draining the fluid and pulling the bellhousing if needed. perseverance.!....... Cheers, Ben

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    Fellow Frogger! forzamacchi's Avatar
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    I was able to tighten a few bolts and even add a transmission case bolt that I had missed. Other than the drain bolt, which could use a bit of teflon tape, everything is dry! Hopefully it stays this way....

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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by forzamacchi View Post
    I was able to tighten a few bolts and even add a transmission case bolt that I had missed. Other than the drain bolt, which could use a bit of teflon tape, everything is dry! Hopefully it stays this way....
    Sounds like you might have nailed it this time. Practice makes perfect!
    JohnW

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    My Supermodel 63-1092's Avatar
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    This sounds like the R8 Trinidad rouge appreciation thread.
    John
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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 63-1092 View Post
    This sounds like the R8 Trinidad rouge appreciation thread.
    We are quite rare! There is a Rouge Trinidad Caravelle in Perth of course - you might have seen it? Round rubber buffers at the front, bought new in Singapore.

    Cheers
    JohnW

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    We are quite rare! There is a Rouge Trinidad Caravelle in Perth of course - you might have seen it? Round rubber buffers at the front, bought new in Singapore.

    Cheers
    Does this mean that when I eventually paint my Mt Isa Floride its original Trinidad Rouge I can join the group?
    John
    Александър Кристоф Шанел

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    Quote Originally Posted by 63-1092 View Post
    Does this mean that when I eventually paint my Mt Isa Floride its original Trinidad Rouge I can join the group?
    Mais oui! That will make about four of us that I know of. I reckon that there is a Dauphine Gordini that colour in Melbourne too - it came from a late friend of mine in Adelaide about 25 years ago. If there are more than 6-8 I'd be surprised.
    JohnW

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    My Supermodel 63-1092's Avatar
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    Mr W, this is actually an interesting subject regarding the Trinidad Rouge, especially with Florides.
    After putting my Floride into the power pole I've stripped it back enough to start the repair of it, and with a little investigating have found that the red as seen on my car in my signiture is not the original red.
    It to was Trinidad Rouge, even the interior is incorrect and has been retrimmed with me thinking it was different but still original.
    Of the three Florides that I have at the moment, two are incorrect red and the other incorrect cream and burgundy. The smashed one's red should be Trinidad Rouge, the cream & burgundy should be Trinidad Rouge and the other red one was actually a white car.
    So I ask all of those who are a little older than I, that would of restored Florides or other rear engined Renaults of the period during the 70's & 80's, why Red or that more common lighter red compared to the darker Trinidad Rouge?
    Ben, sorry for going off subject.
    John
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    Quote Originally Posted by 63-1092 View Post
    Mr W, this is actually an interesting subject regarding the Trinidad Rouge, especially with Florides.
    After putting my Floride into the power pole I've stripped it back enough to start the repair of it, and with a little investigating have found that the red as seen on my car in my signiture is not the original red.
    It to was Trinidad Rouge, even the interior is incorrect and has been retrimmed with me thinking it was different but still original.
    Of the three Florides that I have at the moment, two are incorrect red and the other incorrect cream and burgundy. The smashed one's red should be Trinidad Rouge, the cream & burgundy should be Trinidad Rouge and the other red one was actually a white car.
    So I ask all of those who are a little older than I, that would of restored Florides or other rear engined Renaults of the period during the 70's & 80's, why Red or that more common lighter red compared to the darker Trinidad Rouge?
    Ben, sorry for going off subject.
    That's interesting. I remember a red Floride hard-top owned by a friend in the early 1970s, and I reckon it was closer to scarlet than Rouge Trinidad, but Bruce's Dauphine G (say, 1962) definitely looked to me like Rouge Trinidad and was original. The Rouge Trinidad Duco faded badly though - our cars first owner reckoned it faded on the way home. I suspect the earlier cars, maybe late 1950s, were a different shade and maybe some of the Rouge Trinidad cars were repainted and they just didn't get the colour quite right? I don't think these are very convincing answers but is the best I can think of.

    Our car was made in 1964. I've onlyh seen two other red R8s in the flesh, one repainted orange, and wrecked by me for parts and panels in the mid-1980s, and one seen once in Adelaide, looking tired and rusty and no doubt long gone.

    Cheers
    JohnW

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  24. #24
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    I had a '70's Honda Civic in the 80's which was a deep red, not unlike Trinidad red - faded down to undercoat as did many dark red cars of the era. I had it repainted Ford Monza Red, which is a lighter bright red a bit like Ferrari red.
    That colour was going through a "in vogue" phase at the time and most car manufacturers had a version of it albeit by a different name. I suspect a lot of the cars were probably painted in a similar fashion for several reasons - it was popular at the time; bad memories of dark red's and burgundy's fading (although Renault didn't to suffer as bad as others in Oz); and people painting their cars the colour they wanted rather than worrying about originality. In the manner of what I guess evolved into Street machines, everyone from the 50's 60's on, modified their cars to personalise them and make them "different".

    To this day, I still lust after a Marenello red Ferrari with Tan trim! - my civic had black vinyl trim
    KB


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