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Thread: My R12 POS Arrived!

  1. #876
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Hmmm.

    My experience with the 810 engine (1289cc) is that it actually revs a lot quicker between 4k RPM and the limit than from 2500 to 4000. It almost feels like the engine breaks some barrier above 4k RPM and just wants to rev its little head off. Your experience sounds strange.

    Timing all good? Air intake all good?

    Too much valve lash?

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  2. #877
    1000+ Posts bowie's Avatar
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    Hmmm my experience is different to yours, are thinking of the 810 with a twin chock Webber as apposed to the solex I haven't gotten ride of yet?

    But it is certainly better then it was before I got some feeler gauges.

    I can't wait to clean that spare head up honestly, more compression, slightly bigger valves, maybe even look at making the rocker gear lighter somehow (shave the heads and then balance them all?)

    learning learning learning.
    Last edited by bowie; 14th December 2017 at 04:36 PM.

    Works: 1999 Volvo S40 T4, (has Choo Choo's)
    Playing: R12, SuperPos, thinks It's a race car.
    Previous: SuperGrumpy fuel spitting 504ti(ish), SuperComfortable 505 STI, SuperDoper carried my groceries Mi16
    Wanted Ye old K4J / K4M Click!

    "More and more of less and less" - Marina Abramović

  3. #878
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Take a look at the carby I sent you. That is the one.

    I have found another one of the plates that hold the end of the throttle cable sheath at the rocker cover end, I'll throw that in the box. Doesn't have the rocker arm though.

    Regarding the driving experience, it wasn't only my car. All R12s I have driven have this behaviour. And all were 1289cc. Hopefully others will chime in, but in my experience this engine is quite rev happy. Remarkably, Aus R12 (1289cc) and overseas models, even Dacia badged, are exactly the same down to the smell and the tick tock sound of the indicator relay. You simply know you are in a 12 even with your eyes closed.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  4. #879
    1000+ Posts bowie's Avatar
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    I'll get a video on the tacho to see if it reminds you of home

    I've had others in past indicate it's the single Solex that makes them "slow-pock-ontous" and not many 12's here from what I gather had 'em so woo to me. But yes, that one in the box is eager to go on.

    Thank you for those random bits you are finding

    Oh! looking over some Super-Sprint reg's, turns out they have a minimum lap speed. I need to be able to lap the North Circuit in 1:30, not the current 1:38 that was my quickest from the other day.

    Works: 1999 Volvo S40 T4, (has Choo Choo's)
    Playing: R12, SuperPos, thinks It's a race car.
    Previous: SuperGrumpy fuel spitting 504ti(ish), SuperComfortable 505 STI, SuperDoper carried my groceries Mi16
    Wanted Ye old K4J / K4M Click!

    "More and more of less and less" - Marina Abramović

  5. #880
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    How's your gear change? Are you changing at over 4500RPM ? 'cos if you aren't, that's what you can try next. You have to keep the engine up there to be quick.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  6. #881
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    If you want to get serious about gear changes to improve your lap times by about 2 seconds a lap at SMP next time out, just do flat changes. You just keep your foot flat on the accelerator on the upshift, don't lift off. Change really fast so the clutch does not slip for too long or it will overheat.

  7. #882
    1000+ Posts bowie's Avatar
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    yeeeeeah? I worry that's how synco's end up broken? I might just try to take it easy on the ol'd box for a little why yet.

    And yes was changing gears at 5300rpm~

    I reckon there is 8seconds in taking a proper line to be honest
    Last edited by bowie; 14th December 2017 at 11:18 PM.

    Works: 1999 Volvo S40 T4, (has Choo Choo's)
    Playing: R12, SuperPos, thinks It's a race car.
    Previous: SuperGrumpy fuel spitting 504ti(ish), SuperComfortable 505 STI, SuperDoper carried my groceries Mi16
    Wanted Ye old K4J / K4M Click!

    "More and more of less and less" - Marina Abramović

  8. #883
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    Put on the bigger brakes on and you will make up 8 seconds
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1995 Renault Laguna V6
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  9. #884
    1000+ Posts bowie's Avatar
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    Gord I forget they are sitting in the shed! I still need to work out what to do with the master cylinder / booster.

    Well mostly check it's working,

    Actually I remember. It's the brakes hard lines I'm going to have make when I swap them I imagine.

    Works: 1999 Volvo S40 T4, (has Choo Choo's)
    Playing: R12, SuperPos, thinks It's a race car.
    Previous: SuperGrumpy fuel spitting 504ti(ish), SuperComfortable 505 STI, SuperDoper carried my groceries Mi16
    Wanted Ye old K4J / K4M Click!

    "More and more of less and less" - Marina Abramović

  10. #885
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Well, Bowie, you will have bigger rear drums, bloody son of a dorongo! Managed to take them off in the end. For some reason one was stuck. Checked and it doesn't have any obvious reason why. Shoes are good. Maybe the wheel cylinder was stuck. Anyhoo. You'll have to give it a check before you put them on.

    What big brakes are you talking about? Do you have R17 brakes already? What about the master cylinder? Do you need that too?

    Col, do you want anything for your wagon? I have found my rear lights are very good and I took off the reverse and one number plate light as well (they are not bad). Postage cost only.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  11. #886
    1000+ Posts bowie's Avatar
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    Yes V,

    I've got pretty much everything from the front of a 17 to go on. The calipers I have are looking a little beat up, pistons look like sh1t.. (this is where your's come in)

    I do have a booster and cylinder already.. but f there is space in that box sure

    Thanks for that effort in getting those drums off, Best add shoes and cylinders to the list in the new year too

    Works: 1999 Volvo S40 T4, (has Choo Choo's)
    Playing: R12, SuperPos, thinks It's a race car.
    Previous: SuperGrumpy fuel spitting 504ti(ish), SuperComfortable 505 STI, SuperDoper carried my groceries Mi16
    Wanted Ye old K4J / K4M Click!

    "More and more of less and less" - Marina Abramović

  12. #887
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    The shoes I have are good, you don't need to change them.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  13. #888
    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post

    Col, do you want anything for your wagon? I have found my rear lights are very good and I took off the reverse and one number plate light as well (they are not bad). Postage cost only.
    What year is the car again?

    Mine is 6/76, about all i need is the trim that goes on the left front guard and associated clips.

    Also the clip that is below the door handle on the drivers door as I caught the trim on my jeans and ripped it off breaking the plastic clip that holds the trim in place.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1995 Renault Laguna V6
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  14. #889
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    You were lucky, you could have ended with a vital part impaled.

    Like a kebab.
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    Mutual Respect is Contagious


  15. #890
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    Put on the bigger brakes on and you will make up 8 seconds
    I actually think that getting the suspension and tyres right would make more difference than bigger brakes or more power. Too many people chase more power before getting the car sorted - a very common mistake.
    KB


  16. #891
    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    I actually think that getting the suspension and tyres right would make more difference than bigger brakes or more power. Too many people chase more power before getting the car sorted - a very common mistake.
    The standard R12 brakes will fade out very quickly, they are only good for about 3 big stops in a short period.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1995 Renault Laguna V6
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  17. #892
    1000+ Posts bowie's Avatar
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    Interestingly, on the north circuit, with the power I have, I was only getting on the brakes hard at the entry to turn 2, I was to busy trying to accelerate for the rest of the corners to need the brakes. So they got hit once every 1m:40s~ To the point where on one lap I assume I had to much heat in the tyres and they locked up sending smoke spectacularly around the place.

    But long story short I'm not using the brakes enough.

    Works: 1999 Volvo S40 T4, (has Choo Choo's)
    Playing: R12, SuperPos, thinks It's a race car.
    Previous: SuperGrumpy fuel spitting 504ti(ish), SuperComfortable 505 STI, SuperDoper carried my groceries Mi16
    Wanted Ye old K4J / K4M Click!

    "More and more of less and less" - Marina Abramović

  18. #893
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    The North Circuit is not very hard on brakes so thats the response I was expecting bowie. The Renault 12 Series cars had no brake problems with races usually over 10 laps. They used standard brakes with hard pad material and good fluid. Since you will mostly be at SMP and maybe Wakefield, some ducting will be a very cheap addition to assist brake life and performance. The long periods between applications at SMP as you build up speed in your mighty 12 will give you ample time to cool the brakes.
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  19. #894
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    What year is the car again?

    Mine is 6/76, about all i need is the trim that goes on the left front guard and associated clips.

    Also the clip that is below the door handle on the drivers door as I caught the trim on my jeans and ripped it off breaking the plastic clip that holds the trim in place.

    Hi Col, seen this too late, but my car didn't have any trim anyway.
    COL likes this.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  20. #895
    1000+ Posts bowie's Avatar
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    Well the parts bin for things that go up and down is growing.

    My R12 POS Arrived!-parts.jpg

    Haven't had a chance to do a dam thing to the pos because, Christmas.

    With some dampeners sorted I'll abuse the local suspension shop and talk about springs well in the new year (march) but in the intirm, in effort to make some kind of plan before the rest of the presents from WA arrive suppose I should make an order to get this stuff on!

    1) R17 Booster / master cylinder - Suppose this should go on first, this will force me to have the hard lines sorted and I'll be ready for;

    2) R17 Hubs / lower control arms / calipers - These are ready to go just waiting on the calipers, suppose it makes sense to make some new flex lines too.

    3) Wagon drums - With rear bearings of course.

    4) Koni's installed / New Springs - This may be tricky. Best bet is to use the contact I have at work and ask nicely.

    5) An actual alignment - This will be fun. The chap who sorted the blue slip can provide this, he will laugh when he sees it again.

    6) Fenders - Once the 12 is lowered a bit I reckon those 205's will rub once more. I've been eyeing off some toyota / nissan rear fenders that all the cool kids put on their dato's I reckon I'll aim for something like this;



    7) Elec Ignition - Turns out the megajolt "ecu" has a few "user" pins which should allow one to run a thermo fan. Easy. I was nearly talking myself into some kind of cheap Haltech 550, but turns out can't really find one under $1000 and they don't become cheap. There are no plans for injection so a megajolt will do nicely. But if anyone is selling something like an Elite 550 pm me

    8) Sway Bars - well this is to remind me to redo the bushes when installed.

    9) Install the Cool Head / Cam / 32/36 DGV Weber - This is work out how much to shave of the head I'm cleaning, along with appropriate valves to and cam to make it silly fun. I've discovered a few posts prior where you have all talked about lift and duration prior. I'll clean / the head as best I can and take it to "a guy" whom will guide there after in the difficult stuff.

    10) Exhaust - With the "TS" manifolds on it best go back to Merrylands Budget Exhaust as he too will get a kick out of seeing the POS. He rallies Stanza's and "gets it" re old crud,


    There. That should see me well and truly out too 2019~ I'm at the stage where I have most of the harder to get bits so I feel good.

    And remember, you can't stuff the plan up if you don't have a plan to stuff.

    VIV LA FRANCE.
    Last edited by bowie; 29th December 2017 at 12:19 AM.
    COL likes this.

    Works: 1999 Volvo S40 T4, (has Choo Choo's)
    Playing: R12, SuperPos, thinks It's a race car.
    Previous: SuperGrumpy fuel spitting 504ti(ish), SuperComfortable 505 STI, SuperDoper carried my groceries Mi16
    Wanted Ye old K4J / K4M Click!

    "More and more of less and less" - Marina Abramović

  21. #896
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowie View Post
    Well the parts bin for things that go up and down is growing.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	parts.jpg 
Views:	47 
Size:	89.0 KB 
ID:	102217

    Haven't had a chance to do a dam thing to the pos because, Christmas.

    With some dampeners sorted I'll abuse the local suspension shop and talk about springs well in the new year (march) but in the intirm, in effort to make some kind of plan before the rest of the presents from WA arrive suppose I should make an order to get this stuff on!

    1) R17 Booster / master cylinder - Suppose this should go on first, this will force me to have the hard lines sorted and I'll be ready for;

    2) R17 Hubs / lower control arms / calipers - These are ready to go just waiting on the calipers, suppose it makes sense to make some new flex lines too.

    3) Wagon drums - With rear bearings of course.

    4) Koni's installed / New Springs - This may be tricky. Best bet is to use the contact I have at work and ask nicely.

    5) An actual alignment - This will be fun. The chap who sorted the blue slip can provide this, he will laugh when he sees it again.

    6) Fenders - Once the 12 is lowered a bit I reckon those 205's will rub once more. I've been eyeing off some toyota / nissan rear fenders that all the cool kids put on their dato's I reckon I'll aim for something like this;



    7) Elec Ignition - Turns out the megajolt "ecu" has a few "user" pins which should allow one to run a thermo fan. Easy. I was nearly talking myself into some kind of cheap Haltech 550, but turns out can't really find one under $1000 and they don't become cheap. There are no plans for injection so a megajolt will do nicely. But if anyone is selling something like an Elite 550 pm me

    8) Sway Bars - well this is to remind me to redo the bushes when installed.

    9) Install the Cool Head / Cam / 32/36 DGV Weber - This is work out how much to shave of the head I'm cleaning, along with appropriate valves to and cam to make it silly fun. I've discovered a few posts prior where you have all talked about lift and duration prior. I'll clean / the head as best I can and take it to "a guy" whom will guide there after in the difficult stuff.

    10) Exhaust - With the "TS" manifolds on it best go back to Merrylands Budget Exhaust as he too will get a kick out of seeing the POS. He rallies Stanza's and "gets it" re old crud,


    There. That should see me well and truly out too 2019~ I'm at the stage where I have most of the harder to get bits so I feel good.

    And remember, you can't stuff the plan up if you don't have a plan to stuff.

    VIV LA FRANCE.
    Bowie, great plan. They take time but we get there. Enjoy Geezer!
    “Listen very carefully, I shall say this only once.” Cheers. John

  22. #897
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowie View Post
    Well the parts bin for things that go up and down is growing.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	parts.jpg 
Views:	47 
Size:	89.0 KB 
ID:	102217
    Le Rouge et le Noir.

    Can't get much more french than that.

    Or at least more stendhalesque.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 31st December 2017 at 03:14 AM.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  23. #898
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    If you are going to buy an ECU buy a real one, I'd avoid things like megajolts due to the other parts required and the lack of flexibility. You can get a new adaptronic for under $1000. If you don't want the newer version the less flexible old version can be found second hand for a reasonable price.

    What if you want to add injection at a later time. Or when I finally start the K4M revolution.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using aussiefrogs mobile app
    Last edited by c.lees; 31st December 2017 at 09:08 AM.
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  24. #899
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    Where did you get your Koni's?

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  25. #900
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    Fellow AF'er hooked me up, they are second hand. I was lucky.

    C.Less, yes I'm still swinging between the two... gah I'll cross that when I'm ready. The K4 revolution will be mighty.
    Last edited by bowie; 1st January 2018 at 07:04 PM.

    Works: 1999 Volvo S40 T4, (has Choo Choo's)
    Playing: R12, SuperPos, thinks It's a race car.
    Previous: SuperGrumpy fuel spitting 504ti(ish), SuperComfortable 505 STI, SuperDoper carried my groceries Mi16
    Wanted Ye old K4J / K4M Click!

    "More and more of less and less" - Marina Abramović

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