Stuck R10 upper A arm pin
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Thread: Stuck R10 upper A arm pin

  1. #1
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    Default Stuck R10 upper A arm pin

    One of them came out easily as they are suppose to, one not so much.

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    Tried hitting it with a brass drift and a big hammer, no joy. Tried heating up the tube in the cross member and hitting it with a hammer again, no joy. Figured it could be stuck in the ends so take a drastic path after discussing it with my old man who was a mechanic and cut it into three pieces, now the arm is out but the rest of the pin won't budge.

    Any suggestions? Drilling a hole along the length of the remaining section of pin to release any stress also didn't help.

    Unfortunately now it's a matter of pushing it out as there isn't enough left to grip to try and twist it.

    I'm reluctant to get it too hot before hitting it as I don't want to distort anything. I hope I haven't already.

    There was evidence that it's been stuck for a while, the flats on the head end were pretty chewed up from someone trying to turn it.

  2. #2
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    I had the same problem , I managed to shift it by removing the seat and using an electric jack hammer to loosen it
    hope this helps Cheers Peter.
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    So the pin has been cut? And the bushes removed? Does the pin turn in the crossmember bush with the use of vice grips? Sometimes a PO has overtightened the pivot pin nut (specified torque 40-50lb/ft) which distorts the inner wishbone bush tube on the pivot pin making it difficult to remove. Or if the pin has been cut and the bushes removed, get some plasticine (or similar) and soak the pin in some sort of penetrating solution for a couple of days (if not already done), be careful about hitting the ends too much, as the ends may bell making removal even more difficult.
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    Try this: soak the pin for as long as you can using the method above. Remove the nut from theGST. pin closest to the cabin. Use an impact wrench (rattle gun) to spin the nut ON. You want it to spin the pin, to free it. Rattle the nut on and off a few times. Use washes/spaces to pull the pin towards the front of the car. More penetrating lubricant. Repeat unti pin moves freely. Then tap it out.
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    1000+ Posts geckoeng's Avatar
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    "c.lees"
    Just to show it has been done before, and I did 2 cars with the crossmember in situ, when I was an apprentice.

    You need to be accurate with your drilling, 6mm drill to start with, then 10mm and i think the final was about 3mm smaller than the pin. Lots of oil on the drill and they need to be sharpened properly. And LOTS of patience. I did break a 10mm drill doing the final break through on the loose frame.

    Stuck R10 upper A arm pin-image0082.jpgStuck R10 upper A arm pin-image0083.jpg
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    When working on suspensions, I always loosened off all nuts and drove around a bit.
    It was amazing how easily everything came apart afterwards
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    No fun at all. It seems to be common on R10s. Oddly, when I did the bushes on the R8 it was 35 years old or a bit more and they slid straight out, greased with the right stuff I guess. I was ready for big trouble and it didn't eventuate.

    Good luck....
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    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    No fun at all. It seems to be common on R10s. Oddly, when I did the bushes on the R8 it was 35 years old or a bit more and they slid straight out, greased with the right stuff I guess. I was ready for big trouble and it didn't eventuate.

    Good luck....
    I usually find with suspension that everything comes apart as John has said or you are in for a torrid time.
    Regards Col

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    I do hope you get some movement . I usually found the vibration of an air chisel with a pin punch shaped chisel provided enough vibration to powder the rust . I may have pivot bolts and new/ near new bushes saved if needed . Also one R8G upper plated wishbone .

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    I have a feeling that before the great crash someone wrote about using a hydraulic ram in their Renault workshop to push out rusted pins, not sure how or who. Pressing against the inner guard might not be good. Anyone else remember this?
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    I made up a length of SHS tube with a nut welded on one end; and a flat plate (to hit with hammer) on the other end. I soaked them with rost off, then hammered it out.

    I planned to replace the pins, so wasn't too concerned with damaging the thread as long as it got the pin out. This is the one accessible through the rubber grommet in the foot well yeah?

    I'll see if I have a pic.

    Edit - too late for c.lees, but in case it helps anyone else
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Stuck R10 upper A arm pin-dscn2343.jpg   Stuck R10 upper A arm pin-dscn2344.jpg   Stuck R10 upper A arm pin-dscn2345.jpg  
    Last edited by renault8&10; 4th August 2015 at 06:20 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunroof View Post
    I have a feeling that before the great crash someone wrote about using a hydraulic ram in their Renault workshop to push out rusted pins, not sure how or who. Pressing against the inner guard might not be good. Anyone else remember this?
    You would want to be very careful about pushing the crossmember around like that, potentially twisting it or pushing it over as it bends on the chassis rails.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon View Post
    You would want to be very careful about pushing the crossmember around like that, potentially twisting it or pushing it over as it bends on the chassis rails.
    I have been trying to remember what was said. I think it was using a frame, or chain, or something on the cross member the ram went from this frame back to the pin. I thought I kept a copy because I had a pin rusted on my Caravelle upper left wishbone and so the method was some thing I noticed. I've had a look and cannot find it on my computer so perhaps I never kept a copy. I just left the pin in place as I only wanted the wish bone off to paint it..

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    Not having any luck with this one. I've drilled a 10mm hole in the pin, it's a nice holder for a big pin punch. I've filed back end to reduce the effect of any previous bashings mushrooming. I've given it a spray of Inox every day this week. Tried getting it hot again.

    Unfortunately my hole is off centre so I can't just drill it out easily. I can borrow a right angle drill from work if I need to drill from the other end if need be although I may not get a 12mm drill bit in the space.

    I'm thinking that if I keep hitting this piece I'm going to distort something and the car may not drive straight, or worse I'm going to crack something.

    How hard is it to get the front cross member out and then get it back in straight. The manual says how to get it straight but requires a trammel gauge, which I do not have and I doubt many people have. If I can take out the cross member I can take it to work and put it on a mill. This all seems a little drastic.

    Any more suggestions?

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    COL
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    Hi Christian

    You could try this product from Loctite LOCTITE Freeze & Release - Loctite

    I would also try twisting with a large pair of stilsons.
    Regards Col

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    If you can get a 12mm hole right through it you may then get a hacksaw blade in and slit what's left. You should be able to weld an extension onto a regular 12mm bit and get right through.

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    I like a variation on Col's and 59's suggestion, depending on circumstances. Is there a stub of the pivot pin sticking through, where something like a long lever could be welded onto the pivot pin. Then it could be twisted with the welded on lever when it is hit with the freeze and release.

    Don't weld over your already drilled hole though, just in case the lever idea doesn't work......
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    There isn't a lot sticking out anyone, maybe a couple of millimetres. I should be able to weld a nut to it as you can weld down the hole in the nut. Set the MIG welder to lots.

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    C.lees,
    The only reason you take a crossmember out is because it is bent or rusted. There are too many spot welds to find to do in situ. I have changed crossmembers on cars, and all the old ones needed to be cut out. Early with an oxy cutter and then later when small angle grinders came out was with a cutting disc.

    Just remember that the holding tube is pressed in with knurling on it and then brazed in position. So too much heat will affect the strength of the joint. But then you may be able to heat both sided to the point of knocking the tube out and replacing the tube. I have had that it is so rusted inside that when the pin comes out the holding tube falls apart and has to be replaced anyway.

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  20. #20
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    I was thinking I'd just take the tube out if I couldn't remove the pin. If it's just brazed in I should be able to knock it out. I can then just make a new tube and braze it in. If it's an interference fit to put it in I'll have to be careful not to bend anything knocking it in.

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    Not sure of the stage you're at right now. If the Upper control arm is still on the shaft may I suggest cutting/grinding it off. They are easily found. On what remains of the shaft weld or wind a nut on one end and try to get some serious heat into it and then if you want use the refrigerant spray as suggested above. Use a long breaker bar on the socket or impact wrench and go the full gorilla. It is far preferable to attempt to turn the shaft in its sleeve than to pound it out. If it is so frozen in there that it does in fact twist the outer tube in the cross-membe then so be it, work it free and remove and weld it in as you are already contemplating doing. That is far better than having to replace a distorted front cross-member (trust me on this) and to address any damage done to the chassis rails.
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  22. #22
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    Its out, and so is the tube that holds it. I ended up going with the suggestion to just knock the whole thing out, it actually came out pretty easily just got it nice and hot. Now I'll get one of the machinists at work to knock my up a new one as the lathe I have access it is a bit of a toy and not all that good with steel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by c.lees View Post
    Its out, and so is the tube that holds it. I ended up going with the suggestion to just knock the whole thing out, it actually came out pretty easily just got it nice and hot. Now I'll get one of the machinists at work to knock my up a new one as the lathe I have access it is a bit of a toy and not all that good with steel.
    Good to hear its out.

    I think someone above said the tubes are brazed in so you may need to clean up the cross member before re-assembly.
    Regards Col

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    Nickel or Silver grease next time.
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    Good to hear it is out.

    Schlitzaugen, could you be a bit more specific about those greases please. I need to know more for next time I have to do this same job!

    Chkeers
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