Preferred Engine Oil / R8
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 9 of 9
Like Tree5Likes
  • 1 Post By 4cvg
  • 2 Post By 4cvg
  • 2 Post By Frans

Thread: Preferred Engine Oil / R8

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! forzamacchi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Los Angeles, United States
    Posts
    235

    Default Preferred Engine Oil / R8

    The manual for the R8 states that engine oil should be 10w-30. I was just wondering if this stills holds true with modern oils. Or what is the preferred weight today. Thanks! Ben

    Advertisement

  2. #2
    COL
    COL is offline
    A110 COL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Van Diemen's Land
    Posts
    4,020

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by forzamacchi View Post
    The manual for the R8 states that engine oil should be 10w-30. I was just wondering if this stills holds true with modern oils. Or what is the preferred weight today. Thanks! Ben
    Sounds right for the colder climates of the world.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    1976 Renault R12 Station Wagon
    2002 Renault Laguna V6
    1973 Alpine A110

    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    rosevale/tasmania
    Posts
    2,745

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    Sounds right for the colder climates of the world.
    Perhaps so; but Los Angeles?

    Assuming that the motor is not newly reconditioned, I'd increase the base (winter) weight to 20 W & then use either 40 or 50.

    You could also seek advice from the ROCONA guys as to the oil types they use.

    cheers! Peter
    Sunroof likes this.

  4. #4
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    10,763

    Default

    I'd agree with Peter. It does open up the usual "what type of oil" question too. I don't use synthetic for example. I used to use a standard Shell Helix 20-50, cheap and cheerful, and change twice a year. Now I use a Penrite 20-50 aimed at older cars and with appropriate Zinc content, although I honestly don't know whether that matters or not. I last rebuilt it in 1988 so must be doing something right.

    What do you use Peter?

    I'd contact ROCONA too. If you need a contact email send me a PM.

    Cheers

    John
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! forzamacchi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Los Angeles, United States
    Posts
    235

    Default

    Hey John.... I used SAE 20W- 50 today. Felt like the better choice. I don't use synthetic in any of my vintage motorcycles either. Progress continues...

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Boonah Qld
    Posts
    2,525

    Default

    I read some where that synthetic oil should not be used in older motors. There was two reasons, one was to do with the tolerances of older motors and as John said the zinc content is not suitable for older motors. can't remember where perhaps on a thread on A/F.

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! rubyalpine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Christchurch, New Zealand
    Posts
    474

    Default

    Hi,
    I've used 20W40 Castrol GTX in my R10's since 1969, and never had any engine bearing problems.

    Henry
    When I find my feet,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I'll know where I stand!

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    rosevale/tasmania
    Posts
    2,745

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    I'd agree with Peter. It does open up the usual "what type of oil" question too. I don't use synthetic for example. I used to use a standard Shell Helix 20-50, cheap and cheerful, and change twice a year. Now I use a Penrite 20-50 aimed at older cars and with appropriate Zinc content, although I honestly don't know whether that matters or not. I last rebuilt it in 1988 so must be doing something right.

    What do you use Peter?

    I'd contact ROCONA too. If you need a contact email send me a PM.

    Cheers

    John

    In a discussion with the guy who dynos my toys, I discussed oils at length as he does lots of race preparation. I was inclined to an ester based synthetic like Redline (costs a heap but, as the owner of a local engineering works put it : 'compared to metal, oil is cheap') & I've used a range of synthetics in the past & oils which retain higher levels of organic zinc compounds.

    His comment was that the key job was maintaining an oil film &, especially, doing that in high shear stress parts. The oil that he judges to do this best (& that he uses in racing & which he recommended I use instead of synthetics, reputedly high zinc "classic" oils, or whatever) is a mineral oil: Fuchs Titan Formula 60 (25w-60). And no, he didn't think it too heavyweight for any of the below listed vehicles I use it in.

    It is used in the 4CVG, Djet & R8 (all 1.4 R12 family motors in various states of tune from mild to wildish), my warm 1330 Moke & a daughter's Minivan 1100 (both "A" series), another daughter's 90 series 1.6 Corolla, an FJ55 Land Cruiser and my wife's old Forester (250k) which is now a daughter's. The only vehicle which doesn't use it is my wife's replacement Forester which uses Castrol Edge full synthetic 5W-30 (it has only done 110k so tolerances are still tight & that oil is the dealer's standard issue).

    There are not as many oil tests out there as there are tyre tests so I'm just taking his advice as being the closest to an expert's lesson from experience as I can manage.

    YMMV

    cheers! Peter
    Last edited by 4cvg; 9th December 2014 at 10:44 PM.
    JohnW and Sunroof like this.

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts Frans's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    1,491

    Default Oils!

    My point of view. What I am going to describe is actual experiences with old engines spending their life at 6000 rpm and more. The biggest issue will always be the camshaft wear on the lobes and in particular the old flat tappet type that we all sit with. (the other type is a roller tappet).

    The Sierra type engines has very little issues. They are not very sensitive about oils and I race mine on Penrite 50-70 or something like that. Johan races his on the same. It is a mineral oil at a good price. My racing engine has now done more than a 1000 km and all of that is at racing conditions. I think it will be under multiple times more stress than any other Renault engines on this forum.

    The 807 type engines are very sensitive about their oils and running in of cams to work harden it and all that issues. The success lies partly in running a high stressed 807 engine with a Zinc additive (ZDDP) and mineral oil. Again this is proven with the NZ A110 on a NZ Targa week. That will give you close to 800km special stages and 2000 km touring between stages.

    My advise is to use an old school mineral oil and to add Zinc additive if you have a 807 engine. (The additive that was used in the A110 was a Crane Cams additive from the USA.) I don't have a particular fancy in a specific oil although I dislike Castrol and will not use it.

    Frans.
    JohnW and Sunroof like this.
    Old enough to know better
    Young enough to do it anyway.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •