10S Wheel Repair
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Thread: 10S Wheel Repair

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! R10S FAN's Avatar
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    Default 10S Wheel Repair

    Hi All,

    One of the factory 4.5 inch wheels on my 10S has elongated wheel stud holes. Can I get a wheel specialist to weld in a new centre from a standard R10 to the 4.5 inch rim or is the metal too thin? I've posted on here for another 10S rim but nothing as yet.

    Cheers

    Anthony

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    I'd say No, depends on what you mean by centre.

    When they manufacture rims (like welding a 10 or 16 centre into a rim), they normally cut the rim on a lathe to the required diameter (ie for a 13 or 14" wheel they cut the whole wheel "centre" to the diameter that would give the right size when welded into the rim) then weld that entire "centre" piece into a brand new rim piece. In this case you want to cut a 15" wheel and re-weld it into an old 15" rim section not a new one. I can't see any wheel shop agreeing to do that, nor would they cut and weld the true centre cap part into an old wheel in my opinion.

    Looks like we need to find somewhere to make 4.5" and 6" replica 15" wheels new. We'd make a killing with the Gordini, Djet and R8S/R10S crowd.
    KB


  3. #3
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    As an afterthought, could you talk to a wheel specialist about making a reinforcing plate that goes inside the wheel (would need to be the right shape and profile) with fresh holes that is welded inside. If it is welded to the wheel and not too thick it would not be construed as being a spacer and hence should therefore be legal - just thinking out aloud?
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    KB


  4. #4
    My Supermodel 63-1092's Avatar
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    I had the centre cut out chromed and then welded into a six inch chromed rim. Didn't ask if it was new or old but assumed new.
    John
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  5. #5
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    I believe most shops would refuse to weld into an old rim, as it doesn't have the safety locking bead for tubeless which is a requirement these days.

    When I had my sets made (x2) they specified they had to use a new rim. The trouble is, it is getting harder for them to get the small sized rims (both diameter and width) and they may not even be able to get <6" rim width now.
    KB


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    What about Adelaide Wheel and Rim on South Rd, could they help with advice?
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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon View Post
    What about Adelaide Wheel and Rim on South Rd, could they help with advice?
    As ever a good suggestion. I used to use Mullins Wheels, in the city I think, but that is a wee while ago.

    Cheers
    JohnW

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  8. #8
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    Genuine R10S rims have a tubeless locking bead. Whether it still complies is another thing.

  9. #9
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunroof View Post
    Genuine R10S rims have a tubeless locking bead. Whether it still complies is another thing.
    And so back to the tubes vs no tubes debate.....
    JohnW

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  10. #10
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by R10S FAN View Post
    Hi All,

    One of the factory 4.5 inch wheels on my 10S has elongated wheel stud holes. Can I get a wheel specialist to weld in a new centre from a standard R10 to the 4.5 inch rim or is the metal too thin? I've posted on here for another 10S rim but nothing as yet. Cheers
    Anthony
    Hmm. You have a centre point with the hubcap bolt hole, so it should be possible to weld up the wheel nut holes and then measure exactly where the centres of the three holes should be at 120 degree separation, drill and file and get it pretty damn close.
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    JohnW

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Hmm. You have a centre point with the hubcap bolt hole, so it should be possible to weld up the wheel nut holes and then measure exactly where the centres of the three holes should be at 120 degree separation, drill and file and get it pretty damn close.
    exactly right john.easy repair for someone with basic welding skills.

    anthony .get a thin bit of copper plate,you could cut open a piece of copper pipe and shape it to the profile of the wheel where the hole is.this will act as a backup for when you weld around you elongated holes.it will stop the weld from "dropping down " you can then clean up with a grinder,make a template or jig off one of your other wheels and bobs your uncle(you have to hold the copper backup tight to the back of the holes) during welding and it will end up almost smooth on that side,ie the copper will not stick to the weld.if it does fuse a little,knock it off with a chisel.
    you only need to weld around your elongated holes enough to get it back to original and then file or drill to suit

    hope this helps.cheers brian
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  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Hi R10S Fan

    A mate of mine who is also a member of our club, the Renault Owners Club of Canberra, lives in Blayney NSW and he has plenty of spare R8/10 wheels. If you PM me I could give you his email address and you can contact him and see if he could help.
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  13. #13
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    These are 10s rims ,same as 8 gordini wider than standard 8 and 10 ,i recall seeing pictures from the day were the rim centers were ,double skinned to prevent buckling when slicks were used on standard rims ,in effect the center section of a rim was cut out and welded onto another rim giveing it double thickness and more strength from the wheel nuts out ,pugs spose it all comes down to who you are going to get to modify rims for a registered car ,and the insurance implications

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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    As an afterthought, could you talk to a wheel specialist about making a reinforcing plate that goes inside the wheel (would need to be the right shape and profile) with fresh holes that is welded inside. If it is welded to the wheel and not too thick it would not be construed as being a spacer and hence should therefore be legal - just thinking out aloud?
    For what its worth, I have now had this done with 11 wheels.

    What I did was have a ring cut out of 3 mm plate & drilled for the 150 mm PCD stud pattern. That plate was tack welded at two points on each arc between the studs (spaced at l/3 & 2/3) to give 6 weld points. My own motivation was one of reinforcing the rim to stop it flapping laterally under cornering forces & cracking the wheel at the stud holes. In my original post on them, I noted that a side benefit was that I now had new circular holes in a material of enough thickness to resist flogging oval. In my judgement this is the best option for you by far.

    If anyone wishes to go down this path, then a PM to me might be a good initial move.

    cheers! Peter


    10S Wheel Repair-edging-photo.jpg10S Wheel Repair-full-wheel.jpg
    Last edited by 4cvg; 21st November 2014 at 01:38 AM.

  15. #15
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4cvg View Post
    For what its worth, I have now had this done with 11 wheels.

    What I did was have a ring cut out of 3 mm plate & drilled for the 150 mm PCD stud pattern. That plate was tack welded at two points on each arc between the studs (spaced at l/3 & 2/3) to give 6 weld points. My own motivation was one of reinforcing the rim to stop it flapping laterally under cornering forces & cracking the wheel at the stud holes. In my original post on them, I noted that a side benefit was that I now had new circular holes in a material of enough thickness to resist flogging oval. In my judgement this is the best option for you by far.

    If anyone wishes to go down this path, then a PM to me might be a good initial move.

    cheers! Peter
    Neat Peter.
    JohnW

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  16. #16
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    It occurred to me that I should speak to a possible confusion. The wheel pictured in my above post was one of a pair of rears (5.5x14) which had the welds put in the wrong spot. The wheel guy welded them on either side of the stud hole. (The welds are visible in the close-up photo.)

    I was irritated by this as my lateral flapping issue wouldn't be stopped by that set-up & I didn't like having any metallurgical unknowns caused by the weld in such a high stress area. Anyway, I stupidly fitted them &, predictably, one of the pair cracked around the stud hole. It was used for the photo (for a past purpose) simply because it wasn't on a vehicle. I did mark the wheels with a felt pen (just visible) at the desired weld points.

    cheers! Peter

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