Dauphine Power Unit Removal
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Thread: Dauphine Power Unit Removal

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! geodon's Avatar
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    Default Dauphine Power Unit Removal

    I'm about to start dismantling.

    I'm VERY impressed with how the whole eng/trans/rear suspension shebang comes out.

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    I have overhead lifting gear to get the tail up high enough.

    Before I try making a trolley like the one in the manual, is that the way to go? Surely someone has trod this path before?

    I made a dick of myself with my Land Rover: I posted how I converted the chassis cross member under the gearbox to from fixed to bolt-on (thereby enabling engine & gearbox to come out & go in together) only to be told that the Australian military ones had a bolt-on & it could be bought as a part. Derrr!

    This time I'm asking first!
    "Pauses for audience applause......not a sausage!"....Bluebottle

    1949 Citroen Big 6
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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Been a while since I've done it as one unit (in R8's and 10's but they are much the same) I recall using a trolley jack to support the weight then an axle stand when storing it.
    KB


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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Same here. It's been decades since I've needed to. It wheels out provided you support the engine weight a bit.

    Always double-check everything is unfastened, although I'm probably teaching my grandmother how to suck eggs. Brake lines, if they go to the cross member, all odd wires etc.
    JohnW

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    Fellow Frogger! geodon's Avatar
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    Yes! That was my 1st thought.

    Buuuut, it's not just the weight, it's balancing the damn thing with a single point lift.

    I was thinking of a platform on castors and some old screw out car stands. The turnbuckles are big allowing a powerful lift.

    The back is easy: that bar that supports the engine using vice grips to prevent the stands slipping- the bar is angled upwards!

    The transmission end is the problem. Bolt something to the suspension cross member? A cradle for the transmission?

    Actually, my garage jack may fit ON the platform in between the stands supporting the engine. Then all I need to do is weld up a cradle for the transmission that has a spigot underneath it to engage the lifting bracket on the jack.

    Watch this space!
    "Pauses for audience applause......not a sausage!"....Bluebottle

    1949 Citroen Big 6
    1955 MGA1500
    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility (Resto project)
    1962 Renault Dauphine Gordini (Resto project)
    1950 Grey Fergie Tractor

  5. #5
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    My trolley jack has a removable lift plate that leaves a 20 or 25mm hole. I then welded up several different cradles for the axle, the complete engine and gear box unit on wheels, or the gear box, to fit in the hole. Once out I just use axle stands where the engine mounts go. But recently dropped the unit off the jack as I didn't use my manufactured cradle resulting in a bent pulley.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! geodon's Avatar
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    Dauphine Power Unit Removal-img_0537.jpgDauphine Power Unit Removal-img_0536.jpgDauphine Power Unit Removal-img_0535.jpg

    Ah! Great minds think alike!

    Recently I broke a rear axle on the land Rover & according To Murphy's Law, they always snap at the diff end so it had to come out. The early diffs are built to withstand a nuclear holocaust so they are heavy. As a younger man I would pull them out onto my gut.
    Not any more!

    On subject I think 3 scissor jacks are the go. I have one, they are cheap to buy, have a MUCH lower profile than car stands and can be fixed to a timber platform
    "Pauses for audience applause......not a sausage!"....Bluebottle

    1949 Citroen Big 6
    1955 MGA1500
    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility (Resto project)
    1962 Renault Dauphine Gordini (Resto project)
    1950 Grey Fergie Tractor

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    VIP Sponsor 59 Floride's Avatar
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    This is how I do it..

    I use a simple timber trolley with small castors to keep it low. Disconnect everything except two crossmember bolts, remove rear wheels and lower the car down until the powerplant rests on the trolley, then remove the two crossmember bolts (previously loosened). Then jack or hoist the body up and the rest stays behind.

    I do it this way so I don't have to jack the body up as high and I don't need to lift it with a winch...works for me.

    Dauphine Power Unit Removal-008.jpgDauphine Power Unit Removal-036.jpgDauphine Power Unit Removal-037.jpg

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts michaelr's Avatar
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    Lots of clever ways to move the power unit out from under the car, but my preferred method was to simply support the rear of the motor on a stand or wooden blocks, lift the rear of the car (it is now very light) and wheel the body forward on its front wheels.

    Two people and a timber beam is all that is needed.
    Michael
    Member, Citroen Car Club NSW

    DS23 Pallas 5 sp. "Francoise" , BX19TRi Auto "Jacques Dutronc" , Teardrop Trailer "The Toad", BMW R65 "Rosamund"
    In the past: Renault 750, Dauphine, R4, R8, R10, Peugeot 504 Familiale, ID 19 (x2), Safari (x2)

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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Yes, but all of our methods are based on a one person removal Michael.
    My wife gets narky if I ask her to help with the greasy stuff too often in the shed!
    KB


  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! geodon's Avatar
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    "This is how I do it..

    I use a simple timber trolley with small castors to keep it low. Disconnect everything except two crossmember bolts, remove rear wheels and lower the car down until the powerplant rests on the trolley, then remove the two crossmember bolts (previously loosened). Then jack or hoist the body up and the rest stays behind.

    I do it this way so I don't have to jack the body up as high and I don't need to lift it with a winch...works for me".


    This is simply elegant!

    Thank you!

    The w/shop manual is not overly descriptive re the cross member bolts.

    How many each side & are they hiding under the Aerostable cushions?

    I'm also guessing they are actually studs that are fixed to the frame?

    Was the lack of a lifting function on the trolley a disadvantage when putting it back in? I guess if the cross member mounts are studs you maneuver the trolley so they drop in?
    Last edited by geodon; 18th October 2014 at 05:29 PM. Reason: more info
    "Pauses for audience applause......not a sausage!"....Bluebottle

    1949 Citroen Big 6
    1955 MGA1500
    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility (Resto project)
    1962 Renault Dauphine Gordini (Resto project)
    1950 Grey Fergie Tractor

  11. #11
    VIP Sponsor 59 Floride's Avatar
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    If you have a close look at picture 2 you will see a 4X3 hwd fence post under the body which I use with a small trolley jack when lowering and lifting the body. Once the assembly is wheeled under the car and the crossmember bolts are aligned it is just a matter of gently lowering into place. I'd have thought the Dauphine would be the same as a Floride which has bolts approx 5-6 inches long that feed through holes in the chassis and down through the crossmember. They are clearly visible and are not under the aerostable buffers.

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger! geodon's Avatar
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    Yes!! I see them. Thanks.

    Actually that arrangement makes it very easy to line up.

    Simply insert a long Phillips head screwdriver or similar & just lever away till the bolt holes line up. No need for a lift function.
    "Pauses for audience applause......not a sausage!"....Bluebottle

    1949 Citroen Big 6
    1955 MGA1500
    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility (Resto project)
    1962 Renault Dauphine Gordini (Resto project)
    1950 Grey Fergie Tractor

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! geodon's Avatar
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    Dauphine Power Unit Removal-img_0620.jpgDauphine Power Unit Removal-img_0621.jpgDauphine Power Unit Removal-img_0622.jpgDauphine Power Unit Removal-img_0623.jpgDauphine Power Unit Removal-img_0624.jpgDauphine Power Unit Removal-img_0631.jpgDauphine Power Unit Removal-img_0632.jpg

    OK! That went quite well except that I may need a new speedo cable.

    Well, I had to forget something!

    I fabricated a couple of brackets to bolt onto the rear bumper mounts. That contraption attached to the chain block is an engine leveler which shifts the balance point so the rear of the car is level.

    The roof bearer is reinforced with a 300x50x3mm length of steel propped up by 2 doubled-up 4x2 hardwood posts.

    The cross member bolts were well & truly rusted in & when one of them laughed at my big Ingersol rattle gun, I had to play the Nutcracker Suite.

    Overall, I'm damn impressed! Whilst my best time to drop a an air cooled VW motor is about 30 minutes, to get the transmission AND rear suspension out would take the best part of a day. With a bit of practice, I could do this job in less than 2 hours.

    Formidable!
    Last edited by geodon; 11th November 2014 at 03:37 PM. Reason: more info
    59 Floride likes this.
    "Pauses for audience applause......not a sausage!"....Bluebottle

    1949 Citroen Big 6
    1955 MGA1500
    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility (Resto project)
    1962 Renault Dauphine Gordini (Resto project)
    1950 Grey Fergie Tractor

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! geodon's Avatar
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    Dauphine Power Unit Removal-img_0606.jpg

    Sorry! Some punters may wish to see my sophisticated power unit trolley.

    It's a base of an old display stand with a castor on each corner with timber to collect the swing arms & the sump and a few rubber strips to prevent slippage
    59 Floride and J-man like this.
    "Pauses for audience applause......not a sausage!"....Bluebottle

    1949 Citroen Big 6
    1955 MGA1500
    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility (Resto project)
    1962 Renault Dauphine Gordini (Resto project)
    1950 Grey Fergie Tractor

  15. #15
    COL
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    OK! That went quite well except that I may need a new speedo cable.

    Well, I had to forget something!

    I fabricated a couple of brackets to bolt onto the rear bumper mounts. That contraption attached to the chain block is an engine leveler which shifts the balance point so the rear of the car is level.

    The roof bearer is reinforced with a 300x50x3mm length of steel propped up by 2 doubled-up 4x2 hardwood posts.

    The cross member bolts were well & truly rusted in & when one of them laughed at my big Ingersol rattle gun, I had to play the Nutcracker Suite.

    Overall, I'm damn impressed! Whilst my best time to drop a an air cooled VW motor is about 30 minutes, to get the transmission AND rear suspension out would take the best part of a day. With a bit of practice, I could do this job in less than 2 hours.

    Formidable!
    Quote Originally Posted by geodon View Post
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    Sorry! Some punters may wish to see my sophisticated power unit trolley.

    It's a base of an old display stand with a castor on each corner with timber to collect the swing arms & the sump and a few rubber strips to prevent slippage
    Good work there Geodon
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
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    http://alpine-a110.weebly.com/

  16. #16
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    Just got to love home made tools.

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