Renault Megane Convertible Roof Mechanism
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  1. #1
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    Default Renault Megane Convertible Roof Mechanism

    G'day,

    I'm just wondering what is involved in removing the electro-hydraulic stuff that electronically opens the roof on a Phase 1 Megane Convirtible.

    Can you just rip it all out and have it as a manual opening roof?

    How much would all the electric stuff weigh?

    I've been looking at options for an EV conversion and I was thinking of buying an auto Megane Cab and putting a battery pack where the rear seats would normally reside.

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    It will keep the weight fairly central and I can remove and replace the pack from the top with a hoist.

    Also, has anyone seen a Megane fitted with a 'Road-box'

    It's a factory cover thingy that covers where the back seat would be. It would be ideal to cover a battery pack and keep a factory look. Were they ever sold here or would it be best to look O/S




  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Kim Luck's Avatar
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    My tip, should you chose to accept it, would be to leave the roof as it is and replace the 1.6L with a 2 litre manual out of a dead Clio 172 or better. The manual Megane soft top goes pretty hard for a 1.6 L and a 2.0 L version was available in Europe. It may be necessary to weld up the doors for a bit of extra rigidity but Hey! It could go an awful lot harder................

    On your original subject, It can't be hard to remove the driving mechanism from the roof. The last part of the operation is performed manually anyway and closes the front and rear roof simultaneously immediately prior to locking the front of the roof to the top of the wind-shield. The main benefit of the servo system is that it opens and closes the lid on the roof storage area, I'm not sure manual access would be all that difficult?
    Last edited by Kim Luck; 8th July 2014 at 11:22 PM.
    Don't it always seem to go that you don't know what you've got 'til it's gone............

  3. #3
    Veni Vidi Posti 68 404's Avatar
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    Genuine Road Boxes were incredibly rare in Australia due to their price (c.$1500 in 2001).

    They fit straight on to existing fixtures and even the electrics are in situ.

    I believe I may even have a spare Roadbox in my garage...

    Dave

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    Quote Originally Posted by 68 404 View Post
    Genuine Road Boxes were incredibly rare in Australia due to their price (c.$1500 in 2001).

    They fit straight on to existing fixtures and even the electrics are in situ.

    I believe I may even have a spare Roadbox in my garage...

    Dave

    Via the aussiefrogs App
    Would you be interested in someone removing it from your garage?

  5. #5
    Veni Vidi Posti 68 404's Avatar
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    I could be convinced. I seem to have lost the car it fitted

    Dave
    2008 Renault Laguna 2.0 dCi break
    ​1997 BMW K1200RS

    IR655
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  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! Only19's Avatar
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    FYI: you'd need to convert a manual version -
    (a) because you need a gearbox to fit the electric motor to/drive through and electronic autos are too hard to emulate to trick into changing gears and
    (b) AL4 autos are the worst part of that model Megane!

    Cheers
    Bryce
    Who needs brakes? They only slow you down ....

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Only19 View Post
    FYI: you'd need to convert a manual version -
    (a) because you need a gearbox to fit the electric motor to/drive through and electronic autos are too hard to emulate to trick into changing gears and
    (b) AL4 autos are the worst part of that model Megane!

    Cheers
    Bryce
    Yeah, that's why they are dirt cheap.

    I was contemplating ripping the transmission out and just fitting the rear diff from a Subaru or a Scenic rx4 or something so I can prune some weight. I was hoping to get away with a direct drive into the diff.

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    Fellow Frogger! Only19's Avatar
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    Fitting it as a single ratio would be tricky (and very expensive). Very few electric motors for EV use can do the full rev range needed. Brusa make some nice ones that could suit, but at $20k ++. (AND if you can get one - they don't supply one-off retail).

    Cheers
    Bryce
    Who needs brakes? They only slow you down ....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Only19 View Post
    Fitting it as a single ratio would be tricky (and very expensive). Very few electric motors for EV use can do the full rev range needed. Brusa make some nice ones that could suit, but at $20k ++. (AND if you can get one - they don't supply one-off retail).

    Cheers
    Bryce
    I was going to use a Subaru Forester diff which is a pretty short 4.4:1. It should be a good ratio for the motor I want to run.

    I'm not sure why it would be expensive to do it that way? It should be far cheaper as I don't need an engine adapter plate and also lighter (no gearbox, clutch or flywheel).

    it should also be alot more compact, allowing me to store some batteries in the engine bay if needed.

    If I was the only user, I'd go manual, but the wife will struggle so I will connect up the trans shifter so it operates as a control for Reverse and Drive as a normal car.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 68 404 View Post
    I could be convinced. I seem to have lost the car it fitted

    Dave
    How much 'convin$ing' would be required?

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! Only19's Avatar
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    Its a matter of the torque and rev range capacities - to get that sort or motor specs is very exy. The only one I know of is the Brusa. That is what is used in the EV Engineering Commodores. They did the bolt to diff exercise - but they also had 27 million $ to build 9 cars too ...

    Cheers
    Bryce

    Quote Originally Posted by mistareno View Post
    I was going to use a Subaru Forester diff which is a pretty short 4.4:1. It should be a good ratio for the motor I want to run.

    I'm not sure why it would be expensive to do it that way? It should be far cheaper as I don't need an engine adapter plate and also lighter (no gearbox, clutch or flywheel).

    it should also be alot more compact, allowing me to store some batteries in the engine bay if needed.

    If I was the only user, I'd go manual, but the wife will struggle so I will connect up the trans shifter so it operates as a control for Reverse and Drive as a normal car.
    Who needs brakes? They only slow you down ....

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Only19 View Post
    Its a matter of the torque and rev range capacities - to get that sort or motor specs is very exy. The only one I know of is the Brusa. That is what is used in the EV Engineering Commodores. They did the bolt to diff exercise - but they also had 27 million $ to build 9 cars too ...

    Cheers
    Bryce
    During research, I stumbled on this guy's build. Scion xB EV | Brian Hughes

    He uses an almost direct drive into a diff (via a belt) for 4.8:1 ratio.

    He originally had a 5.5:1 ratio but the top speed was too low with.

    I will have my motor coupled up to the diff inline via a rubber drive ring with the whole lot mounted to the k frame, nice and low.

    The Megane is considerably lighter than his car so a 4.44:1 (or similar) should allow the revs to stay in the right ball park and still get off the line ok.

    I may be able to use an RX4 rear diff (and driveshafts) but google isn't giving the diff ratio away. The front diff from an IRS Vitara is available in shorter ratios also.

    The motor I'm using is a HPEVS AC51 with a Curtis 144V controller. It has a built in 12V output also, so it removes the need for a separate inverter for that and has adjustable re-gen and a few other desirables.

    The goal is for the wife to be able to drive it by unplugging the charger, hopping in putting the key in and selecting drive. If it's more complicated than that, she'll say it's all to hard.

    Battery pack is not confirmed but I'm looking into a setup that will give me a 36kw/h 192V 180AH total battery pack. If that doesn't work out I'll go with CALB's or similar.

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts Kim Luck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistareno View Post
    During research, I stumbled on this guy's build. Scion xB EV | Brian Hughes

    He uses an almost direct drive into a diff (via a belt) for 4.8:1 ratio.

    He originally had a 5.5:1 ratio but the top speed was too low with.

    I will have my motor coupled up to the diff inline via a rubber drive ring with the whole lot mounted to the k frame, nice and low.

    The Megane is considerably lighter than his car so a 4.44:1 (or similar) should allow the revs to stay in the right ball park and still get off the line ok.

    I may be able to use an RX4 rear diff (and driveshafts) but google isn't giving the diff ratio away. The front diff from an IRS Vitara is available in shorter ratios also.

    The motor I'm using is a HPEVS AC51 with a Curtis 144V controller. It has a built in 12V output also, so it removes the need for a separate inverter for that and has adjustable re-gen and a few other desirables.

    The goal is for the wife to be able to drive it by unplugging the charger, hoping in putting the key in and selecting drive. If it's more complicated than that, she'll say it's all to hard.

    Battery pack is not confirmed but I'm looking into a setup that will give me a 36kw/h 192V 180AH total battery pack. If that doesn't work out I'll go with CALB's or similar.
    Are you intending this to be front wheel drive or rear wheel drive? If it's rear, you'll need the whole RX4 rear assembly, surely? If it's front wheel drive, are you convinced the shafts will even go close to a fit? The Rx4 track measurement is significantly wider than ordinary Meganes.
    Don't it always seem to go that you don't know what you've got 'til it's gone............

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kim Luck View Post
    Are you intending this to be front wheel drive or rear wheel drive? If it's rear, you'll need the whole RX4 rear assembly, surely? If it's front wheel drive, are you convinced the shafts will even go close to a fit? The Rx4 track measurement is significantly wider than ordinary Meganes.
    FWD Kim. I have no idea if the shafts will fit. I'm hoping the splines are the same, that way I can get them shortened. If I use a Subaru diff, I'll get Megane outers welded on to the subaru shafts.

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