Fuego head gasket
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  1. #1
    Moderator vivid's Avatar
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    Icon4 Fuego head gasket

    Hi guys,

    Just blew the head gasket in my fuego last week, and I am considering replacing it myself.

    Many years ago I replaced the head gasket in my 16TS with much success.

    I assume amongs other things I will need to polish the surfaces between the head and the block, is that correct?

    Any frog lovers out there that have any advice / things to be aware / careful of?

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    Depending on how worn things are internally, last resort I have a spare engine waiting for this engines demise.

    Powered by high grade French plutonium.

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts BogMaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vivid
    Hi guys,

    Just blew the head gasket in my fuego last week, and I am considering replacing it myself.

    Many years ago I replaced the head gasket in my 16TS with much success.

    I assume amongs other things I will need to polish the surfaces between the head and the block, is that correct?

    Any frog lovers out there that have any advice / things to be aware / careful of?

    Depending on how worn things are internally, last resort I have a spare engine waiting for this engines demise.

    Replacing the water pump and cam belt might be a good idea while you have the thing to bits, copuld save some heartbreak or skinned knuckles in the future.

    Woo Hoo Honi ko'u 'elemu (Hawaiian)

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
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    Pretty easy, especially if you have done a wet liner motor before.

    Get the head skimmed at least - I would recomend spending the extra dosh (depends how good youre car is and how long you intend to use it for) and getting the head reco'ed. This involves valves/seats all refaced, bead blasted, skimmed, pressure tested, new welch plugs, valve guide seals. It might need new guides. Comes back looking brand new. Get the engineering shop to put the rockers, camshaft, rocker cover etc through their hotwash too.

    Clean block faces carefully to remove old gasket and not to scratch the alloy. Clamp the liners to move the pistons and clean the crowns (scrape first, then scrub with a green kitchen scourer and a bit of petrol) Oil the bores prior to reassembly.

    REPLACE TIMING BELT!! Even if its only got 10000 ks on it - they are cheap and critical. and probably the tensioner as well.
    If the water pump is OK, leave it alone - its not connected th\o the timing belt in any way.

    To do properly, it will cost you;

    head reco ~ $170 -200
    VRS Gasket set (inc cam oil seal, head, manifolds, rocker cover thermo gaskets) ~$70
    timing belt ~$20 - 25
    timing belt tensioner ~$70
    plus fresh oil, filter, coolant. Go to Carrevelle for the bits.
    I tried to drown my sorrows in alcohol, but the bastards learnt how to swim

  4. #4
    Moderator vivid's Avatar
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    Icon14

    Thanks guys,

    I am going to take it apart tomorrow, and work out what to do when I see inside.

    It is an old motor, 270k on it, but has been looked after over the years.

    PS:
    will most probably be chasing a straight body in the near future if anyone knows of one.
    Powered by high grade French plutonium.

  5. #5
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    Howdy Vivid,

    Just one point, specifically don't try to polish the head/block surfaces. They are meant to have very slight roughness (and I mean slight, not a mirror finish). As said above, just get rid of old gasket residue off the block without scratching it - that's enough.

    Good luck!

    Stuey

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