R25 crossmember
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Thread: R25 crossmember

  1. #1
    farmerdave
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    Default R25 crossmember

    Check those crossmembers...
    the crossmember under the gearbox/bellhousing of my R25 is badly bent, looks like jack damage (jack did it ). (actually the gearbox is out of the car at the moment having its internals scooped out and rebuilt because a PO ran it without any oil in it until it stopped DUH I'm not sure how you do this without noticing, but she did )
    I had a look at 2 other R25s today, and they both have the same sort of crossmember problems. I'm concerned, because the crossmember looks like it may be structural. Straightening it will be a beast of a job, drill out the spotwelds, cut through the weld seam on the outside edges, straighten, reweld etc. Is it worth worrying about/fixing ?. Is this a common problem?

    Farmerdave

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Europa's Avatar
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    Not sure about everyone elses crossmembers, but my V6 one just unbolts. I know this because I bent it with a jack when replacing the auto computer. I think 4 x 19mm bolts with captured nuts from memory.

    Easy enough to straighten once out of the car.

    I can provide a photo if required as it isn't currently fitted whilst I'm working on the motor.
    '05 Pearl Black Mégane 5-Door LXR(Daily Driver), '75 Trak Yellow R16TSA (Parts Car), '74 Midnight Blue R17TS (Rebuilding), '73 457 Blue R17TL (Parts Car), '72 Alpine White R16TL (Retired), '69 Sunburst Brown R16TS (Awaiting Rebuild), '68 "Appliance White" Europa (Stored)

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! deja vu 25's Avatar
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    Yes, the GTX crossmember also unbolts. I have yet to see an R25 that it has been straight on.

    My V6, Mr Maroon GTX, Mr current GTX and my spare parts car GTX all had this.
    Cheers - Luke

    1990 Renault 25 V6 Baccara - Gunmetal Grey
    1974 Renault 17TS (1317) - Silver

  4. #4
    farmerdave
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    Just to clarify, the crossmember does bolt on- my comment regarding welds was in relation to the spotwelds holding the two pressed metal pieces together.
    Separating the two pieces to straighten then was a bit simpler than expected, it took about an hour to separate, 15 min to straighten and another 15 to mig back together.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts Europa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmerdave
    Just to clarify, the crossmember does bolt on- my comment regarding welds was in relation to the spotwelds holding the two pressed metal pieces together.
    Separating the two pieces to straighten then was a bit simpler than expected, it took about an hour to separate, 15 min to straighten and another 15 to mig back together.
    Mate, bash it straight, she'll be right. Unpicking spotwelds? Bah!
    '05 Pearl Black Mégane 5-Door LXR(Daily Driver), '75 Trak Yellow R16TSA (Parts Car), '74 Midnight Blue R17TS (Rebuilding), '73 457 Blue R17TL (Parts Car), '72 Alpine White R16TL (Retired), '69 Sunburst Brown R16TS (Awaiting Rebuild), '68 "Appliance White" Europa (Stored)

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
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    The cross member is "structural" my 20's was loose and the front end fely twitchy over bumps, the problem went away when I tightened up the cross member bolts.

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts Europa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sherman
    The cross member is "structural" my 20's was loose and the front end fely twitchy over bumps, the problem went away when I tightened up the cross member bolts.
    hehe well, now we are off topic (ie. R20 not R25), I also notice that my R17 feels a lot better when the sump guard is attached. Seems to tie everying down well. Pretty heavy bit of steel, and a nice shape.
    '05 Pearl Black Mégane 5-Door LXR(Daily Driver), '75 Trak Yellow R16TSA (Parts Car), '74 Midnight Blue R17TS (Rebuilding), '73 457 Blue R17TL (Parts Car), '72 Alpine White R16TL (Retired), '69 Sunburst Brown R16TS (Awaiting Rebuild), '68 "Appliance White" Europa (Stored)

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Europa
    hehe well, now we are off topic (ie. R20 not R25), I also notice that my R17 feels a lot better when the sump guard is attached. Seems to tie everying down well. Pretty heavy bit of steel, and a nice shape.
    Not quite off topic, there isn't that much difference between 20 and 25. I agree with your comment about the 17 sump guard, both my 17's have their guards intact. Makes me wonder about my 20 which has its sump guard missing. Anyone got a spare?

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts Europa's Avatar
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    Did R20's come with sumpguards in Australia? Or had Renault reclassified Australia by then (no longer a "poor road" classification)
    '05 Pearl Black Mégane 5-Door LXR(Daily Driver), '75 Trak Yellow R16TSA (Parts Car), '74 Midnight Blue R17TS (Rebuilding), '73 457 Blue R17TL (Parts Car), '72 Alpine White R16TL (Retired), '69 Sunburst Brown R16TS (Awaiting Rebuild), '68 "Appliance White" Europa (Stored)

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sherman
    Not quite off topic, there isn't that much difference between 20 and 25. I agree with your comment about the 17 sump guard, both my 17's have their guards intact. Makes me wonder about my 20 which has its sump guard missing. Anyone got a spare?
    There was no guard as such fitted to the 20, the 12/15/17 models were the last of the extreme poor road cars to come to AUS. The 18/20 had fewer poor road features. The sumpguards fitted to the 12/15/17's were part of the special equipment here and for places like Africa, and were not fitted to the Euro spec cars.

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon
    There was no guard as such fitted to the 20, the 12/15/17 models were the last of the extreme poor road cars to come to AUS. The 18/20 had fewer poor road features. The sumpguards fitted to the 12/15/17's were part of the special equipment here and for places like Africa, and were not fitted to the Euro spec cars.
    I have owned two 18s (breaks) and they both had sump guards. The 20 I own has "loose" captive nuts where the s/g would go, with bolts in them. You could be right but it sure looks like one has been taken off.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sherman
    I have owned two 18s (breaks) and they both had sump guards. The 20 I own has "loose" captive nuts where the s/g would go, with bolts in them. You could be right but it sure looks like one has been taken off.
    Sounds like the ones you had are different to the ones I've seen. They were basically a tin skid plate not like the heavy solid guard on the old 12's

  13. #13
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    The 20 may have had a thin skid plate as I have never seen anything where a sump guard should be. The 18s had 12 type s/gs.

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! deja vu 25's Avatar
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    The 20 may have had the thin plate you mention, but my first GTX had only a plastic sump guard - that really tightened up the front end - LOL
    Cheers - Luke

    1990 Renault 25 V6 Baccara - Gunmetal Grey
    1974 Renault 17TS (1317) - Silver

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