Running cables through 07 Megane Sedan
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  1. #1
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    Default Running cables through 07 Megane Sedan

    I have a (long term) goal of running 2 6AWG (+ve and -ve) cables from the battery to the rear of my 07 Renault Megane Sedan.

    This is to allow alternator charging of the battery in my camper trailer. Yes I tow it with the Megane. It's fine as long as I have enough revs at the bottom of a hill -- 3.5k or die I say.

    The cable specs are here:

    http://www.tycab.com.au/automotive-r...ery-cable.html

    It is the 8.8x16.0mm twin sheath.

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    As a start, does anyone know of a way to route this from the battery to the rear of the car? Is there a safe option underneath? Seemed like the the only viable route happened to have an exhaust there already. Not cable friendly.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
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    follow the fuel lines, cable tie to them. install a fuse!

    hope its a manual Megane...

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    Yes it's a manual. Fuel lines + electricity. Interesting!

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Yep, along rear brake lines is probably the best spot. I'd sleeve with convoluted high temp tubing for heat protection and use heavy duty cable ties.

    Why run a twin cable? You have a ground via the car chassis, it would seem to be an unnecessary expense. It also increases the bulk of the cable.

    If you are concerned you could ground to the floor pan, ie an single panel path, but I question whether you need a dedicated ground from front to back.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
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    Fuel lines, brake lines, whichever. They tend to run together anyway along the floor pan.

    If you're really worried, run it inside through the firewall, under the sill trims and then under the boot mat.

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    There is a grommet in the firewall on the passenger side somewhere that has been used for audio installs by some owners - go for a look under your carpet and you should find it (if you'd prefer to keep it inside).

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  7. #7
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    This stuff is gold. Thanks, just the info I was after.

    I assumed (correctly) that the denizens of this forum had spent a great deal of time pouring over their cars.

    With respect to the ground -- yes I suppose I could, but then you have to keep an eye on that ground contact, make sure there is no corrosion etc. The caravan/camper crowd mostly recommend running a dedicated return.

    Cheers

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    I presume you are using a battery isolator? Or am I missing something? Because if you accidently left the trailer battery connected to say a fridge, it would discharge both batteries if it was a direct connection between the front and rear battery.

    Another alternative would be a solar battery maintainer. It would maintain the battery when the trailer isn't in use, and if securely attached to the trailer, could charge the battery enroute. Saving the need for running cables through the car.
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  9. #9
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aidan View Post
    This stuff is gold. Thanks, just the info I was after.

    I assumed (correctly) that the denizens of this forum had spent a great deal of time pouring over their cars.

    With respect to the ground -- yes I suppose I could, but then you have to keep an eye on that ground contact, make sure there is no corrosion etc. The caravan/camper crowd mostly recommend running a dedicated return.

    Cheers
    From the caravan to the car body.. for sure. But an earth all the way from the vehicle battery is not required. Often these forums post advice without any regard for the science behind the project.

    I'd be using a dual battery cut-out system. Silicon Chip has a good kit at fair price.

    http://archive.siliconchip.com.au/cm...8/article.html

    http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com/...27webnotes.pdf

    Otherwise you can end up with two discharged batteries.

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
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    Shoved my head under my 07 Megane sedan - just run that single cable along the route the brake and fuel lines take. Its protected by a plastic stone guard anyway and think this will be a simple and perfectly safe route.

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    Thanks again for the advice.

    I will be using a battery isolater, but in this case it is a CTEK 250S dual DC-DC battery charger -- it has an auto cutout so that it only operates when the alternator is running.

    As I said above, a negative return is not necessary if you're confident of a good return path and check for corrosion. From my reading if possible a dedicated return wire is recommended.

    I'll take a look at those fuel and brake lines.

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    My R19 has one pissy little cable connecting the battery to the chassis, and that is all it has.

    My fuego on the other hand has multiple earth's to engine block, head and chassis, and seriously large ones at that.

    If your car has a pissy little cable, it might be worth upgrading it anyway.

    Jo

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