Suddenly a really loud bad rattle
  • Help
Page 1 of 2 12 Last
Results 1 to 25 of 29
  1. #1
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Geelong Victoria Australia
    Posts
    13

    Default Suddenly a really loud bad rattle

    Scenic Megane

    Advertisement


    It came on very suddenly and it sounds like the car is shaking itself to pieces, but it still tracks straight and rides as well (Or as badly ) as ever and when braking it is as straight as ever and as quick. I put the car up on a jack and I can see no obvious loose bits or missing screws/bolts etc but I did see that the plastic boot on the RH rear shocker has come adrift. Could a small plastic boot be causing so much noise? and if so do we need to replace the rear shocks?
    car has only done 60k but is 6 years old now Timing belt was replaced as per service intervals and has always been book serviced
    needs new tyres as well,

  2. #2
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    8,257

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Moondog55 View Post
    Scenic Megane

    It came on very suddenly and it sounds like the car is shaking itself to pieces, but it still tracks straight and rides as well (Or as badly ) as ever and when braking it is as straight as ever and as quick. I put the car up on a jack and I can see no obvious loose bits or missing screws/bolts etc but I did see that the plastic boot on the RH rear shocker has come adrift. Could a small plastic boot be causing so much noise? and if so do we need to replace the rear shocks?
    car has only done 60k but is 6 years old now Timing belt was replaced as per service intervals and has always been book serviced
    needs new tyres as well,
    You don't indicate where the noise is coming from, front, rear, under-bonnet etc.

    A new loud rattle noise? Could be dual mass flywheel, or crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) if the noise is engine related.
    Crankshaft pulley can be checked by marking through the diameter with something like a white-out pen, running the engine and check for movement between the inner and outer.

    Others more familiar with the Megane will no doubt offer other possibilities


    Cheers
    Chris
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
    08 C5 X7 HDi very Noir



    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    4,425

    Default

    I'd also look at engine mounts.
    The megane has a reputation for going through them.
    KB


  4. #4
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Geelong Victoria Australia
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Sorry
    RH rear in or close to the wheel well
    Sounds more like a plastic component than engine or drive train, it isn't the exhaust or the catalytic converter to the best of my limited knowledge.
    I just took it for a drive around one of our really rough roads ( not hard to find in Norlane) and it did feel like it was bottoming out on a couple of potholes

  5. #5
    Should get a life 2353's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Brisvegas
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    If it's coming from the rear and since the bang there is a "loose muffler/exhaust" sound while turning, going over driveways etc - check the rear axle. Our 07 Grand Scenic with a tad over 50k on the car has been in a dealers yard since the week before Christmas waiting for a new axle to get here from France.
    Save the earth, it's the only planet with chocolate.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! Trading Estate's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    587

    Default

    try this first
    Earlier Scenics had faulty batch of shockers that come adrift from their mounts. Common problem google 'shockers mounts scenic'.
    The weld breaks and they rattle and clang until you replace it ! Sounds like right rear shocker?
    '04 Megane
    Gone but not forgotten
    '71 16 TS, '72 16 TL, '74 15TS,'82 20TS Series 2, '85 25 GTX. '49 L15,

  7. #7
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Geelong Victoria Australia
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Sounds like the shocker has gone then> I wonder why it did not rattle and come loose in my hand when I checked under the car?

    Where would fellow members recommend shopping for a pair of replacements? It seems like they OEM were very shoddy part but 5 years and 60 ks is reasonable I guess

    We don't have an owners repair manual, whats the easiest way to remove these buggers? I can't see the top of the shockers how far off the ground do I need to lift this thing??

    Wifes car, I'm a Toyota' / Ford bloke myself

    Thanx for the help so far

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts Europa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Adelaide, South Australia, Australia
    Posts
    2,432

    Default

    Attached doco may help, assuming I have the correct model Scenic...
    Attached Files Attached Files
    '05 Pearl Black Mégane 5-Door LXR(Daily Driver), '75 Trak Yellow R16TSA (Parts Car), '74 Midnight Blue R17TS (Rebuilding), '73 457 Blue R17TL (Parts Car), '72 Alpine White R16TL (Retired), '69 Sunburst Brown R16TS (Awaiting Rebuild), '68 "Appliance White" Europa (Stored)

  9. #9
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Geelong Victoria Australia
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Thanks Europa but that doesn't look like the beloveds car

    Torsion bar rear suspension on hers and there is nothing in the rear that looks like a bolt The bolt may come into the storage compartment under the seats I'll pull the rear seats off the mounts ( that is one thing Renault got right) and have a look there.

    Cecile really likes this car and we need to keep it until we finish the house renovations

  10. #10
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Geelong Victoria Australia
    Posts
    13

    Default

    And I find the cheapest shockers are the dealer replacement at $196 a pair, that's a few dollars cheaper than bring in aftermarket ones from the UK or France and I really do not think the vehicles needs Bilstein or Koni aftermarket types after all we are not racing and our roads don't allow us to use anywhere near the speed these cars are capable of

  11. #11
    Member Freddie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Torquay, Victoria
    Posts
    72

    Default

    sounds like Rr shocker upper mounting - you will not feel much play even "off load" but they make an awful banging noise

    Had our Scenic's go as well - best buy was French Connection (Dave - sponsors this site) - had a pair delivered to Torquay within 2 days - I remember Norlane Rds (probably same still as in '60's)

    Suggest you retain a matching pair/axle

  12. #12
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Geelong Victoria Australia
    Posts
    13

    Default

    The most appreciative of thanx Freddie, wonder of wonders he has a set waiting to be taken out if I can't pick them up tomorrow I'll get them posted to us down here. Roads are much worse in some places than they were and some are remarkably good

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts Europa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Adelaide, South Australia, Australia
    Posts
    2,432

    Default

    OK try this one (older model Scenic)
    Attached Files Attached Files
    '05 Pearl Black Mégane 5-Door LXR(Daily Driver), '75 Trak Yellow R16TSA (Parts Car), '74 Midnight Blue R17TS (Rebuilding), '73 457 Blue R17TL (Parts Car), '72 Alpine White R16TL (Retired), '69 Sunburst Brown R16TS (Awaiting Rebuild), '68 "Appliance White" Europa (Stored)

  14. #14
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Geelong Victoria Australia
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Thanx Europa, I had to wait until we could use Ceciles computer to unzip that file, piece of cake, I was looking for a nut and bolt that obviously wasnt there, it is of course a 2002 model and CC just reminded me that the car has done over 80k

  15. #15
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Moondog55 View Post
    car has done over 80k
    It's a Scenic Dynamique, and has actually done 120k. These are the original shockers.

    Truth is, things that you would consider normal wear and tear on an 11 year old car are all going at once. It needs a brake booster replaced, work on the transmission. Finding a company who is truly interested in doing the brake booster particularly is turning out to be a nightmare. The dealer wants close to $1k to do it and the local euro repair shop has failed to get back to me after repeated requests for an estimate.

    Car overall is in OK condition for its age, and no rust (although there are a few very minor dings). Now trying to work out whether or not it's feasible to spend 3k on repairs.

    Thank you all for an informative and helpful forum.

  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    vic
    Posts
    868

    Default

    Re - booster - take it to a brake place.
    I use a place called Superstop for parts, havent actually had work done by them, but assume they do.
    The hard thing will be to get it out.
    If you can do it yourself, then obviously you will save $100's.
    I would be very surprised if they were not rebuidable - most are, they just need a diaphram.

    David

  17. #17
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Linton.Victoria.
    Posts
    1,280

    Default

    Hi-I have heard of this problem before-Wondering if it is possible to re-weld same-Sounds a bit like the batch of Commondores years ago that missed out on half of its welds.

    Cheers,

    Pekay.

  18. #18
    Member markb2501's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Croydon NSW
    Posts
    102

    Default

    Hi Cecile,

    After my wife took our 01 Scenic on fire trails around Kangaroo Valley a year ago, similar story. Diagnosed as a broken rear shockie. It's really very simple to do (I am a pen pusher and I did it in under 20 minutes!):
    1. Obtain rear shocks (I popped one in from the wreckers - $40, bargain from what I can see compared to new. Should it last 2 years I have made up for the extra $$ I didn't have to spend).
    2. Whilst vehicle on ground, loosen lower end bolt a tad.
    3. Jack car up enough and remove rear wheel.
    4. The shockie goes at about a 45 deg angle towards the front of the car - slightly peel back the dirt/rubbish protector thingie at the front end where the shockie starts to disappear. You will find the top bolt there.
    5. Remove both bolts, remove old shockie, insert new shockie.
    6. Replace both bolts, tighten accordingly.
    7. Replace wheel and let the car back to the ground.

    Hoping this helps you mate....

    Cheers,

    Mark

  19. #19
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 85Fuego View Post
    Re - booster - take it to a brake place.
    I use a place called Superstop for parts, havent actually had work done by them, but assume they do.
    The hard thing will be to get it out.
    If you can do it yourself, then obviously you will save $100's.
    I would be very surprised if they were not rebuidable - most are, they just need a diaphram.

    David
    Thanks for your information re booster. I took it to a franchise brake place when it first started happening (5 years ago!) and the moron could not even FIND the booster. There is a Euro repair shop here in Geelong, who was meant to give me an estimate to replace with a second hand unit but they have not called me back after several enquiries...obviously they don't want the job because it's fiddly and a pain in the proverbial to get the thing out. I have heard that there is a pressure relief valve on the booster that is causing the hissing noise that comes from behind the brake pedal, but evidently there are no parts available for this.

    More and more I am wondering whether it's actually feasible to repair the car...the work needed all up is close to the current market value. Unfortunately I'm not in a position to replace it at the moment, or I would.

  20. #20
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    vic
    Posts
    868

    Default

    Replacing boosters with an unknown second hand unit with say 3mths warranty, to me, seems crazy. They all age at the same rate (plastics).
    If you are going to take it out - get it recoed. The labour is the expensive bit - not the parts - do the job once.

    The internals are usually common to more than one make, so parts 'should' not be a problem.

    My Fuego was rebuilt for under $200.

    Keep looking there's more than one brake place.
    Don't go to euro specific repair places if you can help it - they will sub out to brake places anyway.
    I would get quotes from Melb, and, if needed drop it off if it means less $$$.

    My worth.

  21. #21
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    canberra...
    Posts
    8,876

    Default

    Booster failures are bloody rare, even in old cars... Never come across one myself thats for sure.

    I would not hesitate to put a s/h one in if thats really what was wrong.

  22. #22
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Boonah Qld
    Posts
    2,632

    Default

    I had never had a booster go until 2012. Both R15 and R17TS boosters stopped working. I had a spare for the R17TS but the R15 one is listed for repair, I hope.

  23. #23
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    vic
    Posts
    868

    Default

    I had 2 cars, 2 different makes, 2 boosters requiring rebuilds, not as uncommon as you think.

    Was just saying, if it were me, and the booster apparently took that long to take out, why would you put an unknown quantity back in?

  24. #24
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    16

    Default Definitely a broken shocker!

    The weld has broken off at the top. The dealer will have the new ones in tomorrow morning.

    What was insanely annoying is that these shocks are quite specific, and six phone calls to local specialists failed to locate suitable units. Even the dealer had to get them in from the Sydney warehouse.

    Re the brake booster, so far I have been estimated about six hours to do the work, plus the price of reco unit. Thankfully it's not an urgent repair.

    Thank you to everyone here who offered suggestions and assistance.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Suddenly a really loud bad rattle-img_5044.jpg  

  25. #25
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Geelong Victoria Australia
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Just took off the RR shocker, as per usual it took me longer to find the tool ( 21mm Socket spanner) than to do the removal and that includes jacking up and taking the wheel off.
    As stated "Piece of cake"

Page 1 of 2 12 Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •