14" 3stud centres
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default 14" 3stud centres

    G/DAY ALL
    Are there any other 14" 3 stud reno wheel centres that have a hole in the centre for balancing as i'm wanting to make up some new wheels for the R10 that i can get balanced as no one has the old type balancers any more with the removable mandrel and face plate I know of the R16tx wheels but they aren't very thick on the ground and if i had a set i wouldn't like to see them chopped up to make other wheels.

    Cheers Peter.

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  2. #2
    VIP Sponsor 59 Floride's Avatar
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    Hi Peter,

    Don't know if you've seen my thread on balancing French centreless wheels Balancing French centreless wheels..how to.= but I've made my own armature for just such a reason. Happy to lend it if you need it...Graham
    Every day when I wake up I reach up in the darkness with my eyes shut and if I cannot feel anything that resembles a wooden lid I know it will be a good day. No lid today.

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    Hi Peter,
    Here in N.Z. I had new 14 inch centres made out of flat plate to the desired pattern, apparently laser cut. I am sure there are many engineering firms over in Aus who can do the same. This is an opportunity to personalise your car with your own individual centre pattern.

    Henry

  4. #4
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    I've been looking to using 4wd rims as they come is a 150 PCD 6 stud. If I can find a locally manufactured wheel then getting it drilled for 3 studs shouldn't be too much of a drama. You can also get a wider rim this way although the maximum allowable is 6" given the weight of the car. I'll be looking at either 15" or 16" x 6" rims for my 10S.

  5. #5
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    Thanks graham but i'm after wheels that i can go anywhere and get them balanced and henry we priced getting some centres waterjet cut over here and they wanted around $200 a centre just to cut me suplying the plate which made them out of my price range.
    Cheers Peter.

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts J-man's Avatar
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    Not sure what these are like price wise, but have you considered Superlites? They come in many off sets, sizes and stud patterns (inc 3 stud)

    http://www.performancewheels.com.au/...=C&Cat=Classic


    Last edited by J-man; 3rd January 2013 at 12:55 PM.
    cheers,

    John

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
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    I have had centres cut here for a huge amount less than that, and having a tame (son) who CAD draws for water/laser etc all day every day helps too. Would you like me to get a price? Postage is not that bad!

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    That would be great thanks , Kiwia 110
    Cheers Peter.

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    If steelies are desired/required, how about just cutting a centre hole in the regular Renault 16 three stud centre, similar to the later model 12 1.4/ Virage wheels? The hole could be cut to suit the chrome "Special"/16TX type wheel centres with a suitable clip, or the Renault 18/20 plastic centres could be clipped in.
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  10. #10
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    I thought of doing that Simon but wasn't sure if it would weaken the centre to much
    Cheers Peter.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 59 Floride View Post
    Hi Peter,

    Don't know if you've seen my thread on balancing French centreless wheels Balancing French centreless wheels..how to.= but I've made my own armature for just such a reason. Happy to lend it if you need it...Graham
    That's excellent Graham and thanks. I missed that earlier post it seems. You could do the same I reckon with a stub axle with new bearings oiled and not greased and appropriately mounted on the workshop wall. It'd be a bit of a challenge to get it exactly correct in orientation. Re the bubble on the base, I think all you need is to get the axle horizontal, so it is just the position parallel to the axle that matters. For home use, are you using stick-on weights? Are you bothering about sticking the weights inside versus outside?

    Back to Peter's question: I'd be inclined to get holes cut in the centres if you don't want to go Graham's way and then coming up with a cunning way of still attaching the hubcaps.

    Just this morning I discovered that my "local" had thrown away his attachment for the closed-centre Renault wheels. The attachments are available for purchase still, he says, but about $1000, have to be fitted to the machine whenever needed and demand is close to zero.

    Cheers
    JohnW

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    That's excellent Graham and thanks. I missed that earlier post it seems. You could do the same I reckon with a stub axle with new bearings oiled and not greased and appropriately mounted on the workshop wall. It'd be a bit of a challenge to get it exactly correct in orientation. Re the bubble on the base, I think all you need is to get the axle horizontal, so it is just the position parallel to the axle that matters. For home use, are you using stick-on weights? Are you bothering about sticking the weights inside versus outside?



    Just this morning I discovered that my "local" had thrown away his attachment for the closed-centre Renault wheels. The attachments are available for purchase still, he says, but about $1000, have to be fitted to the machine whenever needed and demand is close to zero.

    Cheers
    This is exactly why I made the gadget that I did...because it is becoming too difficult to get our wheels balanced.

    As far as your suggestion goes..my research from the motorbike guys suggests it cuts friction by 50% using the 4 bearings as I have, but hey, why not give anything a try as the problem of getting a proper balance job is getting worse and lets face it, driving a car with unbalanced wheels just isn't pleasurable.
    Every day when I wake up I reach up in the darkness with my eyes shut and if I cannot feel anything that resembles a wooden lid I know it will be a good day. No lid today.

  13. #13
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    I bought a wheel balancer that has a Renault R10 hub with the spline taken out. This then fits onto the balancer in place of the usual fitting, and the wheel on to it. The balancer was 3 phase but I have it adapted it to run on 1 phase. Unfortunately I have not set the balancer up or checked that it is accurate, but will need to soon as my Floride has a vibration at about 80 kph which I assume will turn out to be a buckled or out of balance wheel. I need it done before heading off to Junee.

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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-man View Post
    Not sure what these are like price wise, but have you considered Superlites? They come in many off sets, sizes and stud patterns (inc 3 stud)

    http://www.performancewheels.com.au/...=C&Cat=Classic


    I enquired about these a few years ago and they would only do a 15x6 version and had limited offset options. They reckoned they couldn't do the right PCD on their smaller diameter wheels.
    KB


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    1000+ Posts J-man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    I enquired about these a few years ago and they would only do a 15x6 version and had limited offset options. They reckoned they couldn't do the right PCD on their smaller diameter wheels.
    Ah yes, i've just noticed they only say 15in for 3 stud, sorry. I reckon they look the business on this Dauphine though -

    14" 3stud centres-blue-dauphine-superlites.jpg
    cheers,

    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by 59 Floride View Post
    This is exactly why I made the gadget that I did...because it is becoming too difficult to get our wheels balanced.

    As far as your suggestion goes..my research from the motorbike guys suggests it cuts friction by 50% using the 4 bearings as I have, but hey, why not give anything a try as the problem of getting a proper balance job is getting worse and lets face it, driving a car with unbalanced wheels just isn't pleasurable.
    Thanks Graham - I'd missed the point slightly. Of course, you are spinning the axle on those paired end bearings. I quite agree now I'm thinking clearly. And yes, no fun unbalanced, despite friends thinking we are unbalanced ourselves...
    JohnW

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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunroof View Post
    I bought a wheel balancer that has a Renault R10 hub with the spline taken out. This then fits onto the balancer in place of the usual fitting, and the wheel on to it. The balancer was 3 phase but I have it adapted it to run on 1 phase. Unfortunately I have not set the balancer up or checked that it is accurate, but will need to soon as my Floride has a vibration at about 80 kph which I assume will turn out to be a buckled or out of balance wheel. I need it done before heading off to Junee.
    You'll have a queue of people up and down the road outside wanting the service! Are you allowed to run a business where you live??
    JohnW

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  18. #18
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    [QUOTE=JohnW;1130075]Thanks Graham - I'd missed the point slightly. Of course, you are spinning the axle on those paired end bearings. I quite agree now I'm thinking clearly. And yes, no fun unbalanced, despite friends thinking we are unbalanced ourselves...[/QUOTE]

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  19. #19
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    No I can't run a business nor do I want to, but once it is set up I'll let club members do their own. That's provided it works properly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post

    Just this morning I discovered that my "local" had thrown away his attachment for the closed-centre Renault wheels. The attachments are available for purchase still, he says, but about $1000, have to be fitted to the machine whenever needed and demand is close to zero.

    Cheers
    You could always come down to Bridgetown, I was surprised when he said he had the gear to still do them.
    John
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    [QUOTE=Peter J Kent;1129974]G/DAY ALL
    Are there any other 14" 3 stud reno wheel centres that have a hole in the centre for balancing as i'm wanting to make up some new wheels for the R10 that i can get balanced as no one has the old type balancers any more with the removable mandrel and face plate I know of the R16tx wheels but they aren't very thick on the ground and if i had a set i wouldn't like to see them chopped up to make other wheels.QUOTE]



    I'm lucky that my local Bob Jane guy has the adaptor & given that I was almost his first customer 25 years ago, we're quite friendly & he'll keep it just for me if necessary. I think that the 14" size suits rear engine Renaults & the idea is worth persevering with. My suggestion is always to preserve steering delicacy & feel & I use 4.5x14 fronts with standard offset (& 5.5 rears, also with standard offset).

    In the past I've had R10 15" wheels cut down (see pic on the 4CV) & fitted with a welded on reinforcing "spacer" ring to stop then cracking at the stud holes. This is ok & allows for various well depths in the 14" rims. If cutting down 15" rims & only wanting 4.5" (as I do for fronts) then old Valiant wheels are good as they have the twin safety ridges. I've not done it but, with the "spacer" adding strength, I think that a cut hole would be ok.

    I've also used normal R16 centres (stronger than R10 & not needing the reinforcement). For 4.5 wheels, these could use their own rims (reversed for the correct offset & with the valve hole blanked over & a new one cut) &, if one chooses later rims, one gets the double safety humps. These centres are strong & I'd think a cut hole would not be a drama. In my case, the R16 based wheels were rears (on my R8) & thus 5.5 (a difficult find as one has to get the right well depth to mate). Finally, I have used R16TX rims (reversed as above) with the hole already present on the Djet. See pic.

    I conjured with 3-stud early R18 wheels (5"?) & the reversed rim route would work here if that width suits. They have one ridge & a hole in the centre. This might be your best option & I know of some in Tassie if that is any good to you. Although I consider 4.5x14 fronts (with 165/65 or 165/70 tyres) & 5.5 rears (with 185/60) to be ideal for rear-engined Renaults, were I to be starting again, then I'd use 5x14 fronts as they permit (more commonly available in better types) 175/65 tyres.

    Attachment 38289

    14" 3stud centres-front-left-jdg-.jpg

    14" 3stud centres-djet-sh-14-wheel.jpg


    cheers! Peter
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 14" 3stud centres-rear.jpg  
    Last edited by 4cvg; 4th January 2013 at 03:58 AM.

  22. #22
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    Thanks Pete,
    I'm in the proccess of making a set of 13x5" for amandas r10 useing r18 GTS centres and some 5"rims with double safety beads off some little jap car, and i've already done a set useing r16 centres that are on my r10 but i liked the idea of something different to that as not only would i be weakening the centre by cutting the hole they would look odd without hubcaps.
    Cheers Peter

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 59 Floride View Post
    Hi Peter,

    Don't know if you've seen my thread on balancing French centreless wheels Balancing French centreless wheels..how to.= but I've made my own armature for just such a reason. Happy to lend it if you need it...Graham
    For Perth Froggers, I checked this morning, after testing the R8 at an uncomfortable 100 kph plus on the freeway, and can confirm that TyrePower on the north side of Scarborough Beach Road, near Barbagello and just west of said freeway, can still balance our wheels. Over the weekend I'll have recovered from the shaking I got this morning, and will deliver them four wheels on Monday morning!

    Cheers
    JohnW

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  24. #24
    1000+ Posts alan moore's Avatar
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    http://www.performancewheels.com.au/...=C&Cat=Classic

    I have these on my 4CV. 15 x 6. I quoted the offset that I wanted so that they would fit inside the guards, not thinking too much about camber change in the rear. At full compression of the suspension the inside of the rim will scrape against the spring tower. If fitting my rims to an R10 or a 4CV the tie rod end will just scrape the inside of the wheel.

    On the 4CV I machined the taper down on the steering arm a little so that the steering arm was set in about 8mm deeper into the hub. On an R10 you would have to heat and bend the arm a small amount for clearance. The inside of the tyre may also scrub the inner guard on full lock. I shortened my rack a little to stop this.

    The Superlite wheels will also need cut outs fur the disc bolts on the inside. They use four wheel drive castings that have a larger centre to fit in the 3 x 150 PCD, so the wheels have extra gusseting and are massively overengineered for my application. Approx 8 Kg each. I did have 195/50 tyres on but now have changed to 185/55 to give a more clearance for the rear tyre against the spring tower.

    Hardly sounds like it is worth the trouble, does it.

    After looking at the catalog it seems they have dropped all 15 x 6 4WD wheels from the range, and as has been mentioned the 3 x 150 PCD will not fit on the std car centres.
    Last edited by alan moore; 7th January 2013 at 09:48 AM.
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