R10 front suspension sloppiness...
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  1. #1
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    Default R10 front suspension sloppiness...

    Hi All

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    My in tray is getting rather full... While I let the R17 fester I figured that I'd tackle a long standing issue I have with the R10.

    Over about 80kph I get some serious wheel shim and the alignment is so bad that the inner half of the front tyres are badly worn - this is the second set of fronts I've gone thru in about a year. The people who attempted the the alignment last year had three goes at it and pretty much botched the job.

    I figured the upper control arm bushes were shot so I prepared a couple I had and was ready to swap them over the break. But when I checked them the were tight and the rack end bushes are less than a year old.

    What I noticed as an abnormal amount of flex in the steering assembly. THis was observed when an assistant held the steering wheel against the lock and I, holding the road wheel at the quarter-to-three position, rocked it in and out. It seems that while there is some movement in the end bushes and the flector (flexible steering coupling - also renewed a year ago) the entire rack assembly is flexing on its mounts. I know there are strengthening brackets avaliable for them but this is a road car and the movement seems excessive.

    Has anyone had this issue before?

    P

    I'm DIY-ing the alignment using string lines and an app I got for my Iphone... I mean, can't be any worse that what the bozos at Tyre..... did to it.
    Daily Drivers: R10, R12, R17T(?) Decouvrable

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  2. #2
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    That's odd. There's not much to adjust on an R10 front end. I've just done my R8 toe in with a string line and it seems fine. I've never had any shimmy and never had a need to check whether the rack is flexing, although I wouldn't be surprised if they move around a bit. Rack end bushes last for decades as do the inner pivot bushes (my first ones lasted well over 35 years).

    Are the locknuts tight, the ones that screw onto the eye bushes I mean? Again, it should not shimmy if they are loose but the thread on the rack might wear.

    Are the outer joints on the tie rods OK? Eye bushes OK but looseness at the outside would be as bad as worn out eye bushes.

    Perhaps something is cracked in the rack mount area? How are the wheels for straightness and balance? Again, I've run mine without balance weights most of its life without problems, albeit with 135-15 Michelins.

    If nothing is obvious, I'd replace the pivot bushes anyway and eliminate that variable. Then be sure the wheels are OK (balanced outside and inside and straight) and the tyres seated properly and all that.

    No doubt others may respond with direct "that happened to me when...." information.

    Cheers
    JohnW

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  3. #3
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    They do tend to buckle wheels fairly easily.

  4. #4
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunroof View Post
    They do tend to buckle wheels fairly easily.
    Exactly. I'd hesitate to say "cheese" but they are easily buckled...
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1950 (R1062)
    Renault R8 1965 (R1130)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2006 (daughter's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2007 (mine)

    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980 (moved on to new custodian)

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  5. #5
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Forgot to mention. It is probably better to have wheels that buckle easily, and deform in preference to the suspension or mounting points - consider it a sort of progressive crumple zone! Having just fixed my accident damage in the R8 and put in a new/recon steering rack, I'd much rather have the deformation happen at the wheels than deeper into the car...
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1950 (R1062)
    Renault R8 1965 (R1130)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2006 (daughter's)
    Renault Scenic Series II 2007 (mine)

    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980 (moved on to new custodian)

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  6. #6
    Simon's Avatar
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    What are the castor angles like? The wander sounds like it could be a castor problem. Also what wheels is it running, if they are not standard, but say widened steelies, is the offset correct, and are they of quality manufacture (welded straight etc)?

    Is the front crossmember bent? They (the AUS spec version 800) have the tubular stiffener that runs between the upper part of the crossmember, just thinking if the car has been involved in some biffo in the past the stiffener may have been removed and things may not be quite right down there.

    What are the tyres telling you in the wear patterns? Feathering etc, do they give an idea if it is purely toe-out, worn shocks, worn wheel bearings, different wear pattern either side etc etc.....
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  7. #7
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    "...the entire rack assembly is flexing on its mounts..."

    This should not be the case & sounds like your culprit. Why not have the rack out & see what the story is? Peter

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